05-11-2013, 04:39 PM | #15 | ||
I like teeth.
Drives: #198 Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
Posts: 4,817
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I clean mine during the polishing session constantly with a nylon brush and still use at least 4 pads per polish. In my opinion, I think that's your problem. Another thing Adam's doesn't state is cleaning your pads after each panel or section. It is a MUST! Especially if you are only using 1 pad. Think about it. If you polish, you are removing clear coat which is paint. You are also accumulating polish that has dried up and is no longer usable. These things are clogging up your pores and to get efficient polishing action, you have to clean them. Clean your pads and use more of them per polish and I'm willing to bet that your problem will be mitigated or at the very least reduced some.
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Please check out my youtube detailing channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/roshan517 "When you want to succeed as bad as you want to breathe, then you will be successful." |
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05-11-2013, 05:01 PM | #16 |
Search Ninja
Drives: 2010 Black 2SS/RS A6 Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Central Ark
Posts: 7,183
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The magic marker trick works great to see just how fast your backplate is spinning. It should spin but not super fast and you should keep moving slowly across your area. If you can clearly watch your sharpie line rotating all the way around, you're probably applying too much pressure.
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2010 Black 2SS/RS A6
Halltech CF 102 fed GPI modded intake manifold Bo (knows) White ported TB Kooks LT's/ Dynomax VT Pfadted (springs/sways) Dyno tuned by Rhino and GPI I once parallel parked a train. |
05-11-2013, 05:54 PM | #17 | |
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Lol gotta love the Junkman. There is only one way to do anything and it's HIS way. Everything else is flat out wrong and could never work. Also love how he teaches to polish everything the exact same way. 9-14 pounds of pressure at X speed and Y arm speed. THAT'S THE ONLY WAY EVER!!!! Sorry but every car is different, and even within one car you have plastic panels, metal panels, etc that all need different treatment. And remember how you used to have to use Adam's products to get good results until they dropped him, now he's a Meg's guy? [/rant]
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05-11-2013, 06:17 PM | #18 |
Drives: 1968 Coupe, 2010 2SS, 2011 2SS/RS Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: WIsconsin
Posts: 1,252
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Rosahn, I hear what you're saying on disagreeing with Adams, however the OP has Adams and a PC so let's agree to stick with the prescribed procedures on those products.
Vandervortem, Adams products work with color coding so assuming you're working with the Orange Pad, you're probably using Swirl & Haze Remover (SRH). If you're working with the blue pad, you're using Sever SHR, White - Fine Machine polish. The correct order for really bad swirling would be SSHR, SHR, and FMP. If moderate swirling, SHR and FMP but to be sure, start with a 2x2 area and work that area until you're satisfied with the level of correction you wish to achieve. To start the step, lets assume you have a fresh Pad. Start with 4 pea size drops of SHR and spritz or two of DS. With the PC off, work the pad in a patting motion over your 2x2 area to distribute the polish over the area. With the polisher on 3, spread an even coat of polish over the 2 x 2. now with the polisher on 5 - 6, work it in a cross hatch pater over the area until the polish flashes. At this point some will wipe the polish off with a MF towel to review the work. If it looks like it could use another pass, spritz the pad with DS. The polish should wake up and perform another cross hatch pattern until the polish flashes. Repeat this until adding DS no longer produces any cutting results. Add polish only if polish no longer wakes up and if satisfied with the results, move to the next 2x2 section. This could take a couple passes if it's not 100%, but as long as the DS wakes up the polish (kind of turns whitish) you can continue to cut with what's in the pad. Again only add polish (3 pea sized drops) when it stops cutting. Once you move on the FMP, the major damage should be corrected and all you're correcting with FMP is the "damage" done by the SHR. I have found that the FMP step goes much quicker than the SHR step and usually only needs one pass. (same cross hatch patter though) If you follow Adams videos and my advice from above, you technically shouldn't need to switch pads if you're work that step in the same day (Roshan and I will have to agree to disagree on this one) but you may want to clean the pores with the Adams pad cleaning and conditioner brush if you're getting through one full step in one day near the end of the day. (I.E. Day One polishing, Orange Pad SHR Day 2 FMP) Now, if you don't finish that step (orange step) in day one, then I would clean the pad. Some have had success putting the pad in ziploc bag if you're able to get back to work on day 2 to finish the orange step. Also, I don't believe you'll need to add as much polish as Roshon is recommending. I don't I've used that much polish on 3 cars. Personally I believe if your pad is correctly primed, (after polishing a section and DS'ing between adding polish to the Pad and the pad no longer cuts with just DS) you shouldn't need to clean it all that often while you're working that step. Once the orange step is completed, then for sure clean your pad as described before moving on to the FMP and the white pad. I hope this is making sense. While I certainly don't have a bunch of videos, I would consider myself part of the Adams army and versed in their use. I would also recommend waiting for Dylan or Nick to chime in if there is any further doubt or confusion.
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05-11-2013, 06:24 PM | #19 | |
Drives: 1968 Coupe, 2010 2SS, 2011 2SS/RS Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: WIsconsin
Posts: 1,252
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I took it a step further and took the time to meet him in person and confirmed my opinion of him which is still extremely positive. He's always willing to help and yes, provided it's based on his technique, but again it's an excellent starting point for those that haven't polished the mile in our footsteps and figured out some other things along the way.
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05-11-2013, 06:26 PM | #20 | |
it's mind bottling..
Drives: SGM Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: miami floirda.
Posts: 5,393
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tell me more about the kevin brown pad priming method !!!
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05-11-2013, 06:27 PM | #21 |
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Put me in the cleaning pads after each section camp. Open pores work better than clogged ones.
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05-11-2013, 06:29 PM | #22 | |
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I guess I've just been around longer and seen enough of his mocking people, arguing with people, belittling people, and otherwise arrogant behavior to have a different opinion. I just can't stand people that can't admit when they're wrong. No matter how much evidence he has against him, he just yells louder to prove his point. Not my style. Sorry.
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05-11-2013, 06:44 PM | #23 | |
Drives: 1968 Coupe, 2010 2SS, 2011 2SS/RS Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: WIsconsin
Posts: 1,252
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I guess that's why I work it until all or most of the polish has been worked out. Then I'm not wasting a bunch of product or having to stop and clean out my pads on every 2x2 section of my car. That's just my technique. It may or may not work for the OP, but it certainly can't hurt to try either and decide for himself.
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05-11-2013, 06:49 PM | #24 | |
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Just another reason to go microfiber
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05-11-2013, 06:56 PM | #25 |
Drives: 1968 Coupe, 2010 2SS, 2011 2SS/RS Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: WIsconsin
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That must be a whole lotta clear that you're taking off on each pass!
So you are saying there's polish! I wonder what would happen if you worked that out. hmmmm
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05-11-2013, 06:58 PM | #26 | |
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Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
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05-11-2013, 07:11 PM | #27 |
ZLT!!! COTW (8/5/13)
Drives: 2011 IOM 1LT RS M6 Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Slatington, PA
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So, how many pads (let's say orange, fixing paint) you use doing the complete car?
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05-11-2013, 07:14 PM | #28 | |
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But I don't use those anymore. Microfiber is the way to go. One pad. Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
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