Resistance to ground

[silversleeper]

Originally Posted by lil-bit

Well no power connected. Just resistance to ground with no power. J have it all disconnected from the battery. Just testing the positive side of the power "wire" sorry

Ok, if EVERYTHING is disconnected then it should show infinite resistance to ground. However unplugging the battery only would still leave circuits where it would show some resistance to ground.
A more useful test might be how many AMPS are being drawn between the + or - terminals to their battery post with everything "off" and computer in sleep mode.


This isn't something easy to figure out with the only hints being keeps blowing fuses and starters and alternators. Could be a bad ground, missing ground, battery hooked up backwards who knows.

[lil-bit]

Originally Posted by silversleeper

Ok, if EVERYTHING is disconnected then it should show infinite resistance to ground. However unplugging the battery only would still leave circuits where it would show some resistance to ground.
A more useful test might be how many AMPS are being drawn between the + or - terminals to their battery post with everything "off" and computer in sleep mode.


This isn't something easy to figure out with the only hints being keeps blowing fuses and starters and alternators. Could be a bad ground, missing ground, battery hooked up backwards who knows.

I hear ya. So with it all disconnected it does show some resistance but like you said could be computer. So I ran a power wire thick gauge some what the same size as the one running from the battery to the post under the hood staright from that post to the starter seems to be starting fine now but if that wire still goes to the alternator then to the fuse box under the hood... IF there WAS an issue with it shouldn't it still have given me the same result. Since it's basically still all connected together. I wish I could post a picture.

[Rainbow1616]

Well clearly there are no electricians, or electronics technicians here.
No It will NOT show infinity to ground. Not ever.
Yes you will get resistance to ground. It should be high but you will get resistance. You will be reading back through anything connected ie , auxilarry equip, computers etc etc etc.
Check your grounds, all of them, Check your positive cable. Make sure all are tight and clean.

[mickss]

Originally Posted by lil-bit

Can anyone with an ohm meter check to see if they have resistance to ground on the positive side of the batter or the positive post under the hood. I've been having fuses blow and starters fry. When I check to see resistance between the power side of the car to a ground I get some resistance just wanted to see if anyone could do the same test and see if they get the same result.

You know it might be helpful if you would tell those who are trying to help you what make, model and year car you have. I`m assuming by your "Drives: 2000 SS" it`s a 2000 Camaro. A 4th Gen. Camaro electric system I`m guessing is probably very different from a 5th or 6th Gen. if those who are trying help are working under the assumption it`s a 5th or 6th Gen. Camaro.

[WoodBoss]

Originally Posted by Rainbow1616

Well clearly there are no electricians, or electronics technicians here.
No It will NOT show infinity to ground. Not ever.
Yes you will get resistance to ground. It should be high but you will get resistance. You will be reading back through anything connected ie , auxilarry equip, computers etc etc etc.
Check your grounds, all of them, Check your positive cable. Make sure all are tight and clean.

Yes this is true. You have a short somewhere or perhaps a contact resistance somewhere. If you are burning up starters they may be working to hard to turn your car over. You probably should get help from a professional at this point.

[silversleeper]

Originally Posted by Rainbow1616

Well clearly there are no electricians, or electronics technicians here.
No It will NOT show infinity to ground. Not ever.
Yes you will get resistance to ground. It should be high but you will get resistance. You will be reading back through anything connected ie , auxilarry equip, computers etc etc etc.
Check your grounds, all of them, Check your positive cable. Make sure all are tight and clean.

Not so good reading comprehension. That's what I said. Disconnect everything and see what it says. But people won't normally disconnect every power drawing item normally like computers and displays and lights. So there will show some resistance. This isn't how battery drain problems are normally troubleshot. Have you actually worked on circuit troubleshooting? Lol if you used resistance in ohms in a situation like this to find a battery drain instead of amperage draw with everything "off" like I said. How many ohm meters have you ruined because they are not made to be fed external voltage like this?
Below is a partial how-to in finding shorts in cars. Notice we are looking at AMP drains not OHMS resistance.

https://www.popularmechanics.com/car...attery-drains/
Most vehicles draw some battery current when the key is off, thanks to the clock and the internal memory of engine computers, body-control modules, and radio presets. Altogether, they draw a very small amount of current. Fifty milliamps would be a safe upper limit for this, though many vehicles will draw less. If you're not sure, look up the correct rating in the service manual.
To measure the car-off current draw, you'll need a multimeter capable of reading current, preferably one with a 10- or 20-amp capacity, but a 200 milliamp lower scale. Start with a fully charged battery. Either make sure the doors are closed or wedge the door switch shut. Turning off the dome light isn't good enough—on many cars, an open door will activate several circuits.
Unplug any power-draining cables from the lighter socket, such as a cellphone charger or GPS. Even if the device itself is unplugged from the charger, the plug may still consume a few milliamps of current. Got an ear-bleedin' stereo amp in the trunk? Pull the fuse, because it may be in standby mode rather than completely shut down.
One caution: If your radio or antitheft system requires you to input a code after the power is interrupted, better hunt it down now. It's likely that you'll need it. Don't let the dealer entice you to bring the car in and pay him to input it. The code should have been included with the owner's manual when you purchased the car.
Start hunting by putting your ammeter in series with the battery's ground circuit. Disconnect the battery's ground cable and wire the ammeter in series between the battery terminal and the cable. Start with the meter on the highest range, probably 10 or 20 amps. Warning! Doing something silly, like trying to start the car or turn on the headlights—anything that draws more than the meter's rated capacity—can blow the meter's fuse.

[Rainbow1616]

Originally Posted by silversleeper

Not so good reading comprehension. That's what I said. Disconnect everything and see what it says. But people won't normally disconnect every power drawing item normally like computers and displays and lights. So there will show some resistance. This isn't how battery drain problems are normally troubleshot. Have you actually worked on circuit troubleshooting? Lol if you used resistance in ohms in a situation like this to find a battery drain instead of amperage draw with everything "off" like I said. How many ohm meters have you ruined because they are not made to be fed external voltage like this?
Below is a partial how-to in finding shorts in cars. Notice we are looking at AMP drains not OHMS resistance.

https://www.popularmechanics.com/car...attery-drains/
Most vehicles draw some battery current when the key is off, thanks to the clock and the internal memory of engine computers, body-control modules, and radio presets. Altogether, they draw a very small amount of current. Fifty milliamps would be a safe upper limit for this, though many vehicles will draw less. If you're not sure, look up the correct rating in the service manual.
To measure the car-off current draw, you'll need a multimeter capable of reading current, preferably one with a 10- or 20-amp capacity, but a 200 milliamp lower scale. Start with a fully charged battery. Either make sure the doors are closed or wedge the door switch shut. Turning off the dome light isn't good enough—on many cars, an open door will activate several circuits.
Unplug any power-draining cables from the lighter socket, such as a cellphone charger or GPS. Even if the device itself is unplugged from the charger, the plug may still consume a few milliamps of current. Got an ear-bleedin' stereo amp in the trunk? Pull the fuse, because it may be in standby mode rather than completely shut down.
One caution: If your radio or antitheft system requires you to input a code after the power is interrupted, better hunt it down now. It's likely that you'll need it. Don't let the dealer entice you to bring the car in and pay him to input it. The code should have been included with the owner's manual when you purchased the car.
Start hunting by putting your ammeter in series with the battery's ground circuit. Disconnect the battery's ground cable and wire the ammeter in series between the battery terminal and the cable. Start with the meter on the highest range, probably 10 or 20 amps. Warning! Doing something silly, like trying to start the car or turn on the headlights—anything that draws more than the meter's rated capacity—can blow the meter's fuse.

The difference is I don't need to look anything up. I'm in the field so I already know it.