Best gears for my setup ?!

[Baguira]

Hello gentlemen , im new here , im going to tell you my setup that im about to do in the next few months and need ur best advice , i have the following parts ordered sitting in my garage waiting to get the all parts together to start the application .

First , My car is Camaro 2SS 2010 A6 , boltons , Vararam intake , Kooks longtube headers , X pipe and borla atak mufflers with a tune .


My new setup parts are :

- TSP Cam stage 4 “ F35 with l99 to LS3 Conversion kit

- Ported throttle

- ported intake

- will port the heads soon “ if you have more details and info that would hepl me just tell me “

-Deep transmission oil pan

-Transmission Cooler 40000

- thinking about better water cooling valve “ any ideas ? “

- Double roller from rollmaster “ red edition “ , when i ordered it from summit racing they said will not fit the factory dry sump !! “ is it an issue in my case ?


- Circle D torque convertor triple clutch highs stall speed “ dont remember the exact number “ about 3600-4200ish”

- i want to change the 3.27 gears to something better for my setup , any ideas ?

- will add zl1 fuel pump

- oil catch can

-ZL1 Belly pan , what do u think of it ?


My goal with this car track and dd

I usually go with roll races much more than dig

So that was basically my setup goal

Wheres that gonna put me in the HP and Torque wise ?

Thinking about going to Nitrous after that setup


What do you think of Weld Racing Wheels 17 inch all over the 4 tires


And what is the best oil choices for the engine , Transmission , Differential, etc after that setup


Hope to find answers from u gentlemen , thanks

[Greenhornet2]

3.91's NA, but if you go nitrous you'll have a traction problem. I'll stay out of oil recommendation other than the diff, There I'd stick with GM stuff.

[Vegas Bound]

For track and DD, I would go with 3.45 SS or 3.73 ZL1. What was the thinking behind the 4000+/- stall on a track and DD car?

[gunchamp]

391 is a good gear for an auto. Have it myself and can recommend it. Anything less just isnt much of an upgrade of the 323 imo. When you say track, I assume you mean drag strip?

[Baguira]

Originally Posted by gunchamp

391 is a good gear for an auto. Have it myself and can recommend it. Anything less just isnt much of an upgrade of the 323 imo. When you say track, I assume you mean drag strip?

Originally Posted by Greenhornet2

3.91's NA, but if you go nitrous you'll have a traction problem. I'll stay out of oil recommendation other than the diff, There I'd stick with GM stuff.

With slicks will it be fine ?

Thanks though ..

[Baguira]

Originally Posted by Vegas Bound

For track and DD, I would go with 3.45 SS or 3.73 ZL1. What was the thinking behind the 4000+/- stall on a track and DD car?

That was the recommended for the stage 4 Cam . Will i have issues ?

[Baguira]

Originally Posted by gunchamp

391 is a good gear for an auto. Have it myself and can recommend it. Anything less just isnt much of an upgrade of the 323 imo. When you say track, I assume you mean drag strip?

Will that 3.91 do good in roll racing ?

[Greenhornet2]

the lower the gear the better off you will be as far as acceleration, until you start losing traction or run out of MPH. You won't run out of MPH but if you stuff nitrous down its throat with 3.91's on the street you will have traction issues, slicks in a straight line will hold traction pretty well if your suspension is set up, depends how much power you are putting out. I have 3.45's and on the street with road course tires on a hot day I get traction in 2nd but never in 1st

[SSE 4 2SS]

Am I missing something here?

(Double roller from rollmaster “ red edition “ , when i ordered it from summit racing they said will not fit the factory dry sump !! “ is it an issue in my case ?)

The 2010 SS (66-7) read that upside down, didn’t come with a “dry sump” oil pump. Get a C5R chain and forget about it... it’s what I ran in my previous build... Now I run a dry sump...

Now, speaking from experience, first hand, I strongly recommend you do some suspension work before you dive too deep... You don’t want to end up backwards in a ditch at 90 mph... Plus it’ll go a ways towards protecting your drive train...

Toe Rods and Trailing Arms are probably the biggest single relatively inexpensive change you can make... Keeping the rear wheels straight in relationship to the body lines and pointed down “track” are critical to aiding traction and reducing wheel hop tendencies...

If budget isn’t an issue, consider lower control arms as well, and you will free up more options for wheel size down the road... 20’s look cool, but are not the best for traction. Lower control arms will allow more clearance for smaller diameter rear wheels. I would leave the front wheels and tires alone... These cars are heavy, and if/when you get sideways, you will want some meat under the front to tame the beast... Ask me how I know... A bunch of the drag racers do run a skinny up front, but the smart ones have seriously lightened their cars... like in the 3200-3400 lb range with driver... At 4000 lbs, you don’t want a 4.5 inch wide sketchy sidewall tire under the front... The rolling friction of the larger more stable contact patch is negligible...

Now, heat related, remove the engine cover, and the sound deadening intake cover and hang them on the wall in your shop/garage... While you’re in there, under the hood, pull the weatherstripping off the top of the firewall and toss it, or store it in case you decide to sell the car and want to re-install it... The removal of the two covers will increase under
hood noise slightly, (you will hear valve train noise and intake air noise a bit louder) but it will allow more heat dissipation. Removing the weather strip allows a free escape area for heat and reduces under hood air escaping under the car, which reduces front end lift at speed...

Gears, for an auto, I wouldn’t lower the gearing too far... Say 3.73 at the very lowest... The transmission gearing will help make up the difference and your highway cruising won’t suffer so much mpg... Traction becomes an issue if you go much further... unless you roll around on drag radials all the time, and do lots of suspension work... The auto will help since gear shifts are not as violent on the driveline but...

I run 3.07 gears with a manual transmission but I don’t “drag” race... Traction is an issue to way over 100 mph, even with that gearing, but I don’t start accelerating hard even in first gear until 60 mph, shifting at 95+ mph and 9000 rpm...

Good luck with the build, sound like a great project...

[LCPLPunk]

If roll racing mainly, 3.91s all day. From a dig though if you punch it you'll have traction issues unless you have sticky tires.

[Ashen L99]

Originally Posted by Baguira

Will that 3.91 do good in roll racing ?

Not in the auto, 4th runs out at 120mph for me with a 29.4” tall tire. Most people around here want to do 40-60 to 140-150. You can pull 5th in the 6l80 but only so many times before it will let go. They are PERFECT for the strip or digs.

[Baguira]

Originally Posted by Greenhornet2

the lower the gear the better off you will be as far as acceleration, until you start losing traction or run out of MPH. You won't run out of MPH but if you stuff nitrous down its throat with 3.91's on the street you will have traction issues, slicks in a straight line will hold traction pretty well if your suspension is set up, depends how much power you are putting out. I have 3.45's and on the street with road course tires on a hot day I get traction in 2nd but never in 1st

Thanks buddy

[Baguira]

Originally Posted by SSE 4 2SS

Am I missing something here?

(Double roller from rollmaster “ red edition “ , when i ordered it from summit racing they said will not fit the factory dry sump !! “ is it an issue in my case ?)

The 2010 SS (66-7) read that upside down, didn’t come with a “dry sump” oil pump. Get a C5R chain and forget about it... it’s what I ran in my previous build... Now I run a dry sump...

Now, speaking from experience, first hand, I strongly recommend you do some suspension work before you dive too deep... You don’t want to end up backwards in a ditch at 90 mph... Plus it’ll go a ways towards protecting your drive train...

Toe Rods and Trailing Arms are probably the biggest single relatively inexpensive change you can make... Keeping the rear wheels straight in relationship to the body lines and pointed down “track” are critical to aiding traction and reducing wheel hop tendencies...

If budget isn’t an issue, consider lower control arms as well, and you will free up more options for wheel size down the road... 20’s look cool, but are not the best for traction. Lower control arms will allow more clearance for smaller diameter rear wheels. I would leave the front wheels and tires alone... These cars are heavy, and if/when you get sideways, you will want some meat under the front to tame the beast... Ask me how I know... A bunch of the drag racers do run a skinny up front, but the smart ones have seriously lightened their cars... like in the 3200-3400 lb range with driver... At 4000 lbs, you don’t want a 4.5 inch wide sketchy sidewall tire under the front... The rolling friction of the larger more stable contact patch is negligible...

Now, heat related, remove the engine cover, and the sound deadening intake cover and hang them on the wall in your shop/garage... While you’re in there, under the hood, pull the weatherstripping off the top of the firewall and toss it, or store it in case you decide to sell the car and want to re-install it... The removal of the two covers will increase under
hood noise slightly, (you will hear valve train noise and intake air noise a bit louder) but it will allow more heat dissipation. Removing the weather strip allows a free escape area for heat and reduces under hood air escaping under the car, which reduces front end lift at speed...

Gears, for an auto, I wouldn’t lower the gearing too far... Say 3.73 at the very lowest... The transmission gearing will help make up the difference and your highway cruising won’t suffer so much mpg... Traction becomes an issue if you go much further... unless you roll around on drag radials all the time, and do lots of suspension work... The auto will help since gear shifts are not as violent on the driveline but...

I run 3.07 gears with a manual transmission but I don’t “drag” race... Traction is an issue to way over 100 mph, even with that gearing, but I don’t start accelerating hard even in first gear until 60 mph, shifting at 95+ mph and 9000 rpm...

Good luck with the build, sound like a great project...

Thats alot of experience though , i really appreciate it

BTW , i forgot to tell you i have eibach lowering sprins on stock suspension , will it be a proplem with the suspension work u mentioned ? And in general in performance wise ?



Thanks alot for ur info , u opened my eyes into new stuff

[Baguira]

Originally Posted by LCPLPunk

If roll racing mainly, 3.91s all day. From a dig though if you punch it you'll have traction issues unless you have sticky tires.

I think id go with 3.73 to get the best of the both worlds , thanks for ur response though