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Old 10-10-2019, 12:59 AM   #15
Silveradoss573
 
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I always left at the first sign of the third bulb just starting to light up. When the tracks went to led bulbs, I had to work that much harder to get my reaction time back. Shallow staged every time, I was usually around the .520-.540 range being slightly conservative. This is footbraking a automatic btw. My brother who also has pretty good reaction times, raced his svt cobra a few years back and he was in the .530 range consistently all day long. And that was his first time out with that car. My old man could throw down some .410-.420 reaction times running heads up without blinking a eye.
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Old 10-10-2019, 11:31 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Crankshaft View Post
I used to practice counting to cut down on reaction time, I have gotten DQ'd because it's humanly impossible to have a reaction time as quick given that you are trying to go AT the same time as green. I taught my sister in law the trick and she also got disqualified for state swimming back in 2012.

Timing on the tree is exact, always the same once the top bulb is lit. It is impossible to time the start in swimming, it is random. I swam competitively for 6 years.
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Old 10-10-2019, 11:33 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Silveradoss573 View Post
I always left at the first sign of the third bulb just starting to light up. When the tracks went to led bulbs, I had to work that much harder to get my reaction time back. Shallow staged every time, I was usually around the .520-.540 range being slightly conservative. This is footbraking a automatic btw. My brother who also has pretty good reaction times, raced his svt cobra a few years back and he was in the .530 range consistently all day long. And that was his first time out with that car. My old man could throw down some .410-.420 reaction times running heads up without blinking a eye.

If you are bracket racing with those RTs, you lost before the race even started.
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Old 10-10-2019, 01:09 PM   #18
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If you are bracket racing with those RTs, you lost before the race even started.
Yeah take the 5's and that 4 on a pro tree and make turn those to zeros lol. But yeah those would be beyond horrific the way I put those times.
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Old 10-10-2019, 04:12 PM   #19
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Yeah take the 5's and that 4 on a pro tree and make turn those to zeros lol. But yeah those would be beyond horrific the way I put those times.

I figured it was a .500 full tree, but had to give you a little sh!t.
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Old 10-10-2019, 06:56 PM   #20
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I figured it was a .500 full tree, but had to give you a little sh!t.
I figured that if anyone saw that and had raced for a long time, they would know what I was saying. A lot of younger guys may not realize that the nhra made changes to the timing system I think the early to mid 2000's. So what used to be a perfect reaction time on a .500 tree was a .500 is now a .000.... A pro tree .400 perfect light was a .400 now a .000. I'm not completely crazy but yeah went back too far. No problem man.
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Old 10-10-2019, 07:39 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Silveradoss573 View Post
I figured that if anyone saw that and had raced for a long time, they would know what I was saying. A lot of younger guys may not realize that the nhra made changes to the timing system I think the early to mid 2000's. So what used to be a perfect reaction time on a .500 tree was a .500 is now a .000.... A pro tree .400 perfect light was a .400 now a .000. I'm not completely crazy but yeah went back too far. No problem man.

a .499 on a full tree really sucks. I pulled a .4999 at Wichita Falls, TX once.
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Old 10-10-2019, 08:05 PM   #22
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I read an article online yesterday from a poster that said the average human reaction time to anything is .210. This poster then somehow determined that his "cars" average reaction time was .315. This lead to the poster's average reaction time "taking himself and the car into consideration was .525". He then applied this when drag racing and consistently cut .025 lights on average when the third light came on (.5 seconds in between lights) Not sure what class he ran. I know the guys in the pro class where I race, for the most part, have to cut even better lights to be competitive.
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Old 10-11-2019, 10:16 AM   #23
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Personally, I shallow stage and leave from idle with my automatic. I pull the trigger when the 2nd light goes out. If I see the 3rd yellow sitting still i'm toast.
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