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#1 |
![]() Drives: 2012 2SS Convertible Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Raleigh NC
Posts: 41
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Clutch fluid replacement
Hey guys, I have a 2012 2ss manual. The owners manual says to change clutch fluid every 2 years. Dealer wants like $280 to change it.
Sounds like an expensive proposition every couple years. I do like to follow the owners manual schedule. Does anyone follow the 2 year schedule. Thanks! |
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#2 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 SS 2SS M6 Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Smithsburg, Md.
Posts: 2,301
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__________________
2010 SS 2SS M6 - Tune by RDP dynoSteve!(Woot) - Daily Driver - 136K! - All work by me...
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#3 |
Back in the game
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I replace mine every other month when I'm drag racing the car. It's the single biggest thing you can do to keep the clutch working the way it should. So many people have trouble with the sticking pedal, poor disengagement, etc - and so often it's related to the fluid being dirty, roasted, and maybe even containing air from being boiled.
There are a few things you can do to make your clutch hydraulic maintenance life easier. #1 - remote reservoir. The 04-06 GTO reservoir works really well, and helps get your clutch fluid separated from your brake fluid. It makes doing partial fluid exchanges simple - you can suck out the fluid in the reservoir, and then add fresh fluid. By doing this every couple of weeks (in the absence of being able to do a total fluid exchange - see point #2) you can slowly turn old gross fluid into much better looking fluid. #2 - remote speed bleeder. If you have to pull the trans out for ANY REASON, do yourself a solid and install a remove bleeder. You're welcome. If you've ever had to bleed the clutch before you know why - it's not fun to get at the bleeder up in the bell housing, you need two people, and ideally a lift. With a remote speed bleeder you can bleed the clutch (and do full fluid exchanges) all by yourself. Also - if the trans is coming out replace the crappy plastic throw out bearing support in the slave with a billet steel aftermarket solution. These are prone to melting down, causing all sorts of problems including failure to disengage clutch, and complete destruction of the slave cylinder itself. #3 - use a quality fluid. Not all brake fluids are created equal, even within their DOT rating level. I have found that Motul RFB600 (a DOT4) is extremely good quality and heat resistant. I recommend this fluid, or another high quality fluid like it - don't just grab the cheap stuff off the shelf at AutoZone. #4 - this isn't specific to the fluid, but you can really improve the feel of the clutch by ditching the factory return/assist spring and going with either no spring, or a linear return spring. The factory spring actually helps hold the clutch down to the floor when depressed as a driver comfort item, and then it doubles as a return spring - but all it really does as far as I can tell is make the clutch travel feel very odd and less easy to modulate. GM says don't remove it, but many of us have with no ill effects. Apparently the master cylinder transfer port (that circulates the fluid to the reservoir) only opens at the extreme top of the master cylinder throw - so the return spring ensures that port gets open when the clutch is at rest. Fluid pressure would normally open that enough (as many guys run with no spring and no problem) but if you're like me you want to be sure - so you can add a cheapo spring from Home Depot's hardware section to make sure the pedal always has a light pull to be fully up. Probably more than you bargained for on information there - I've done a lot to try to make my clutch work better than it used to (and it does), so I'm passing on what I've learned.
__________________
2011 2SS SGM - CAI, PTB, Rod-Mod and ported intake, GPI SS3 cam, AR LTs 1.875", X-pipe, high flow cats, cutouts behind the axle. 25% UPD, 169*F stat, EE catch can, Ideal Garage clutch master, seperate reservoir, Tick-Shift billet throwout support, Yukon 4.10 gears, TruTrac Differential, LPW Differential Cover, BMR Pro diff bushings, Pegasus Solid rear sub-frame bushings. 497rwhp. 11.67@119 2+ton raceweight.
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#4 |
![]() Drives: 2012 2SS Convertible Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Raleigh NC
Posts: 41
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Thanks so much Fellas. This is great information!
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#5 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 Inferno Orange 2SS/RS Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Clermont, IN
Posts: 2,752
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Never fully changed mine...just siphen the reservoir every so often. Of course, I only have 32k on it.
__________________
2010 Inferno Orange 2SS/RS M6 Black Leather,Sun Roof, OBX Headers, Haltech CAI , non synthetic fluids, Mike Norris tuned 419/413
2007 Ford F150 XLT 4X4 Avenging Orange: 41 years of not buying into the Hype........and damn proud of it!! |
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#6 |
![]() Drives: Chevy Camaro Z28 #968 silver ice Join Date: May 2019
Location: Houston
Posts: 128
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Great post. Thanks for the info.
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#7 | |
![]() Drives: 2014 1SS/RS, LS3, NPP Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Florida
Posts: 97
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Quote:
I wish I could get my clutch fluid reservoir separated from my brake fluid. I’m not really sure how to install one of those kits. Maybe GEN 5 DIY has some instructions? |
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#8 | |
Back in the game
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Quote:
__________________
2011 2SS SGM - CAI, PTB, Rod-Mod and ported intake, GPI SS3 cam, AR LTs 1.875", X-pipe, high flow cats, cutouts behind the axle. 25% UPD, 169*F stat, EE catch can, Ideal Garage clutch master, seperate reservoir, Tick-Shift billet throwout support, Yukon 4.10 gears, TruTrac Differential, LPW Differential Cover, BMR Pro diff bushings, Pegasus Solid rear sub-frame bushings. 497rwhp. 11.67@119 2+ton raceweight.
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#9 | |
![]() Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: May 2009
Location: Idaho
Posts: 695
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Quote:
__________________
CAI Cold Air Intake; Comp Cams LSR Series; EE E2 catch can; SP 1 7/8" LT Headers w/ hfc; FM AT 3" cat-back; AEM Wideband; N2MB WOT Box;
Tuned by Throttle Works 467whp 419 wtq McCleod RXT; MGW flat stick; Ram Clutch slave cylinder & hydraulic adjuster BMR cradle & diff bushings, trailing arms, toe rods & upper control arm bushings Hotchkis sub-frame brace Stop Tech Z-23 brakes 4.10 gears, Eaton Truetrac, LPW diff cover Best 1/4 mile 12.073 @ 115.68 mph 3,300 ft DA |
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