Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com
 
Jason 98 TA
Go Back   Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com > Engine | Drivetrain | Powertrain Technical Discussions > Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing


Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 07-01-2019, 06:21 PM   #1
stickwiggler13
 
Drives: 2012 2SS Convertible
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Raleigh NC
Posts: 41
Clutch fluid replacement

Hey guys, I have a 2012 2ss manual. The owners manual says to change clutch fluid every 2 years. Dealer wants like $280 to change it.
Sounds like an expensive proposition every couple years.

I do like to follow the owners manual schedule.
Does anyone follow the 2 year schedule.

Thanks!
stickwiggler13 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2019, 11:33 PM   #2
frankwjr


 
frankwjr's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 SS 2SS M6
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Smithsburg, Md.
Posts: 2,301
Just follow this,,,http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html


good luck!


PEACE
__________________
2010 SS 2SS M6 - Tune by RDP dynoSteve!(Woot) - Daily Driver - 136K! - All work by me...
frankwjr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2019, 10:10 AM   #3
acammer
Back in the game
 
acammer's Avatar
 
Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SS SGM
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Weedsport, NY
Posts: 2,044
I replace mine every other month when I'm drag racing the car. It's the single biggest thing you can do to keep the clutch working the way it should. So many people have trouble with the sticking pedal, poor disengagement, etc - and so often it's related to the fluid being dirty, roasted, and maybe even containing air from being boiled.

There are a few things you can do to make your clutch hydraulic maintenance life easier.

#1 - remote reservoir. The 04-06 GTO reservoir works really well, and helps get your clutch fluid separated from your brake fluid. It makes doing partial fluid exchanges simple - you can suck out the fluid in the reservoir, and then add fresh fluid. By doing this every couple of weeks (in the absence of being able to do a total fluid exchange - see point #2) you can slowly turn old gross fluid into much better looking fluid.

#2 - remote speed bleeder. If you have to pull the trans out for ANY REASON, do yourself a solid and install a remove bleeder. You're welcome. If you've ever had to bleed the clutch before you know why - it's not fun to get at the bleeder up in the bell housing, you need two people, and ideally a lift. With a remote speed bleeder you can bleed the clutch (and do full fluid exchanges) all by yourself.

Also - if the trans is coming out replace the crappy plastic throw out bearing support in the slave with a billet steel aftermarket solution. These are prone to melting down, causing all sorts of problems including failure to disengage clutch, and complete destruction of the slave cylinder itself.

#3 - use a quality fluid. Not all brake fluids are created equal, even within their DOT rating level. I have found that Motul RFB600 (a DOT4) is extremely good quality and heat resistant. I recommend this fluid, or another high quality fluid like it - don't just grab the cheap stuff off the shelf at AutoZone.

#4 - this isn't specific to the fluid, but you can really improve the feel of the clutch by ditching the factory return/assist spring and going with either no spring, or a linear return spring. The factory spring actually helps hold the clutch down to the floor when depressed as a driver comfort item, and then it doubles as a return spring - but all it really does as far as I can tell is make the clutch travel feel very odd and less easy to modulate. GM says don't remove it, but many of us have with no ill effects. Apparently the master cylinder transfer port (that circulates the fluid to the reservoir) only opens at the extreme top of the master cylinder throw - so the return spring ensures that port gets open when the clutch is at rest. Fluid pressure would normally open that enough (as many guys run with no spring and no problem) but if you're like me you want to be sure - so you can add a cheapo spring from Home Depot's hardware section to make sure the pedal always has a light pull to be fully up.

Probably more than you bargained for on information there - I've done a lot to try to make my clutch work better than it used to (and it does), so I'm passing on what I've learned.
__________________
2011 2SS SGM - CAI, PTB, Rod-Mod and ported intake, GPI SS3 cam, AR LTs 1.875", X-pipe, high flow cats, cutouts behind the axle. 25% UPD, 169*F stat, EE catch can, Ideal Garage clutch master, seperate reservoir, Tick-Shift billet throwout support, Yukon 4.10 gears, TruTrac Differential, LPW Differential Cover, BMR Pro diff bushings, Pegasus Solid rear sub-frame bushings. 497rwhp. 11.67@119 2+ton raceweight.
acammer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2019, 10:59 AM   #4
stickwiggler13
 
Drives: 2012 2SS Convertible
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Raleigh NC
Posts: 41
Thanks so much Fellas. This is great information!
stickwiggler13 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-2019, 10:04 PM   #5
Avenging Orange


 
Avenging Orange's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 Inferno Orange 2SS/RS
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Clermont, IN
Posts: 2,752
Never fully changed mine...just siphen the reservoir every so often. Of course, I only have 32k on it.
__________________
2010 Inferno Orange 2SS/RS M6 Black Leather,Sun Roof, OBX Headers, Haltech CAI , non synthetic fluids, Mike Norris tuned 419/413
2007 Ford F150 XLT 4X4
Avenging Orange: 41 years of not buying into the Hype........and damn proud of it!!
Avenging Orange is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-2019, 10:36 PM   #6
pzero
 
pzero's Avatar
 
Drives: Chevy Camaro Z28 #968 silver ice
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Houston
Posts: 128
Great post. Thanks for the info.
pzero is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2019, 09:56 AM   #7
Black 6.2L SS
 
Black 6.2L SS's Avatar
 
Drives: 2014 1SS/RS, LS3, NPP
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Florida
Posts: 97
Quote:
Originally Posted by frankwjr View Post
Just follow this,,,http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html


good luck!


PEACE
Wow - I just read that write up and these posts. Awesome information and much needed motivation to give my clutch fluid some TLC. Looks like Iím going to be buying some super DOT 4 real soon. Thanks!

I wish I could get my clutch fluid reservoir separated from my brake fluid. Iím not really sure how to install one of those kits. Maybe GEN 5 DIY has some instructions?
Black 6.2L SS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2019, 08:20 AM   #8
acammer
Back in the game
 
acammer's Avatar
 
Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SS SGM
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Weedsport, NY
Posts: 2,044
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black 6.2L SS View Post
Wow - I just read that write up and these posts. Awesome information and much needed motivation to give my clutch fluid some TLC. Looks like Iím going to be buying some super DOT 4 real soon. Thanks!

I wish I could get my clutch fluid reservoir separated from my brake fluid. Iím not really sure how to install one of those kits. Maybe GEN 5 DIY has some instructions?
It's extremely simple. There are a few different mounting options - the GEN 5 DIY kit has the nice bracket that mounts right to the brake fluid reservoir. They supply all the needed hoses and hardware - and they have instructions right on their website. It's a worthwhile modification for sure.
__________________
2011 2SS SGM - CAI, PTB, Rod-Mod and ported intake, GPI SS3 cam, AR LTs 1.875", X-pipe, high flow cats, cutouts behind the axle. 25% UPD, 169*F stat, EE catch can, Ideal Garage clutch master, seperate reservoir, Tick-Shift billet throwout support, Yukon 4.10 gears, TruTrac Differential, LPW Differential Cover, BMR Pro diff bushings, Pegasus Solid rear sub-frame bushings. 497rwhp. 11.67@119 2+ton raceweight.
acammer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2019, 11:15 AM   #9
zlathim
 
zlathim's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS M6
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Idaho
Posts: 695
Quote:
Originally Posted by acammer View Post
It's extremely simple. There are a few different mounting options - the GEN 5 DIY kit has the nice bracket that mounts right to the brake fluid reservoir. They supply all the needed hoses and hardware - and they have instructions right on their website. It's a worthwhile modification for sure.
I'm pretty sure that this is the kit I used. Easy and straight forward to install.
__________________
CAI Cold Air Intake; Comp Cams LSR Series; EE E2 catch can; SP 1 7/8" LT Headers w/ hfc; FM AT 3" cat-back; AEM Wideband; N2MB WOT Box;
Tuned by Throttle Works 467whp 419 wtq
McCleod RXT; MGW flat stick; Ram Clutch slave cylinder & hydraulic adjuster
BMR cradle & diff bushings, trailing arms, toe rods & upper control arm bushings
Hotchkis sub-frame brace
Stop Tech Z-23 brakes
4.10 gears, Eaton Truetrac, LPW diff cover
Best 1/4 mile 12.073 @ 115.68 mph 3,300 ft DA
zlathim is online now   Reply With Quote
 
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:07 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.