Hoosier track pack

[Brent68]

I’m making changes to the rubber on my track tires. Currently running M/T ET Street R (305/40/R18) and M/T Sportsman (28x6R18LT) up front. They were good for 10.4@139. My 60’ times are still north of 1.6 with this set up. The new rubber is Hoosier Drag Bracket Radial (28x10.5R18) combined with Hoosier bias front runners. I was supper pumped about a 40+ pound weight reduction with the Hoosier set up. However, I was visiting with a very accomplished bracket racer and he wasn’t overly encouraged with my choice of Drag Bracket Radials. Looking for some feedback on any anyone using DBR’s. Thanks!

[Bigtime53]

The time your running is that 1000 ft or? Your 60ft is not that bad as mine were worse. What air pressure did you have your drag radials at? I have been told 26-28 lbs is the sweet spot. I ran the M/T's and the reason i did I was told they are the best for the 18 inch setup. Now if you really want to improve the 60ft times with your HP you will have to spend some to change it around but the 15 inch setup is the way to go. My friend did it to his ZL1 and damn did it make a difference. I do not have his 60ft times but he told me it dropped a bunch when he did that. Myself I would not use the Hoosier setup I would put the money toward the 15 inch setup. I do not think you will see enough difference in your 60ft times with the Hoosiers [maybe worse] Just my 2cents.

[Brent68]

The time is for 1320’. I was running the M/T at 20 PSI. When I drive to the track, they’re at 25 PSI. Sounds like I was way off on pressure. I’m getting a couple revolutions of tire spin if launching higher than off idle, also happens on the 1-2 shift. I was hoping to avoid going to 15”, but your comments align with others. I already have the Hoosier’s, before mounting them I will try increasing the pressure on the MTs.

[Vegas Bound]

Every car is different. I run MT ET Street R 305/45*17s at 17.5 lbs. Any more AP and I blow off the tires. Less robs top end speed. Track prep is also a factor. I haven't run the Hoosiers so I can't help you on them. What I'm saying is play with the air pressure until you find what works for you and the track conditions.

[Brent68]

It sounds like the tire pressure is as important as the tire choice. I’ll move pressure around and see what happens. Thanks. Is your 1.36 60’ using stock suspension components?

The Drag Bracket Radials look good on paper. 11 pounds lighter per tire, a side wall more like a bias slick, radial design, and full contact surface (non DOT).

[Vegas Bound]

Originally Posted by Brent68

It sounds like the tire pressure is as important as the tire choice. I’ll move pressure around and see what happens. Thanks. Is your 1.36 60’ using stock suspension components?

The Drag Bracket Radials look good on paper. 11 pounds lighter per tire, a side wall more like a bias slick, radial design, and full contact surface (non DOT).

BC Racing coilovers and BMR LCAs.


I used to run bias ply on the rear. When I switched to DRs, my 60' improved as well as ET. Bias ply is much softer sidewalls and more suited for manual transmissions. I was M6 and swapped to A4. I had to change tires too to take advantage on the trans.

[Tajefe Couple]

Interesting Vegas, I was thinking of trying a Hoosier bias tire. Now you have me rethinking that. I know last year on a M&H radial I went 1.5-60'. Not so good yet this year.

[Vegas Bound]

Originally Posted by Tajefe Couple

Interesting Vegas, I was thinking of trying a Hoosier bias tire. Now you have me rethinking that. I know last year on a M&H radial I went 1.5-60'. Not so good yet this year.

Slicks are for sticks, DRs for autos. Until you get to massive HP.