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Old 11-16-2010, 10:50 PM   #15
Xanthos
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Originally Posted by Fotowns Finest View Post
well i would agree with the temp sender being shot because even with a cold start my fans will come on within seconds...im 1000 miles away from my next oil change and i was late on the last one by only 200 miles or so...would there be a way for me to check my pressure relief valve myself to see if its faulty?

oh and should i even be driving it at this point? i only ever make 10 minute trips out to get something to eat but i wouldnt want to take any chances
You should be able to check the relieve valve with an ohmmeter to determine if its faulty, but I'm not sure how to get to it on that engine. I'll take a gander in my repair manual and get back to you.
- X

P.S. - Disregard this post; I just looked in the manual and the pressure relief valve is a mechanical system, very similar to a thermostat. If you have a Chilton manual, directions are on 2B-14. Looks simple enough. You can check the sender with an ohmmeter at the same time. I can't find the part number for the pressure regulator valve though so I'll have to do more digging on that... As for driving it 10 minutes at a time, it could be fine and it could not be fine. Most likely it won't be enough time for the engine to heat up enough to cause a problem, especially with the fans kicking on right after starting. Just be sure to check your oil and coolant levels frequently until you get the problem solved.
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Last edited by Xanthos; 11-16-2010 at 11:02 PM.
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Old 11-17-2010, 01:20 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xanthos View Post
You should be able to check the relieve valve with an ohmmeter to determine if its faulty, but I'm not sure how to get to it on that engine. I'll take a gander in my repair manual and get back to you.
- X

P.S. - Disregard this post; I just looked in the manual and the pressure relief valve is a mechanical system, very similar to a thermostat. If you have a Chilton manual, directions are on 2B-14. Looks simple enough. You can check the sender with an ohmmeter at the same time. I can't find the part number for the pressure regulator valve though so I'll have to do more digging on that... As for driving it 10 minutes at a time, it could be fine and it could not be fine. Most likely it won't be enough time for the engine to heat up enough to cause a problem, especially with the fans kicking on right after starting. Just be sure to check your oil and coolant levels frequently until you get the problem solved.
sweet man thanks, ill see what i can do
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Old 11-18-2010, 03:27 PM   #17
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This is what I have under normal operating conditions for my LS1 (AFAIK)

Car is in 4th Gear
Coolant temp around 200*
Oil Pressure around 60psi.

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Old 11-18-2010, 08:03 PM   #18
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This is what I have under normal operating conditions for my LS1 (AFAIK)

Car is in 4th Gear
Coolant temp around 200*
Oil Pressure around 60psi.

yea that exactly what my temp used to look like, now it just sits under the 100
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Old 11-18-2010, 09:46 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Fotowns Finest View Post
yea that exactly what my temp used to look like, now it just sits under the 100
Normal operating temp for all of my vehicles has been around the 180-200* mark. I'd check your coolant resivoir and make sure you actually have coolant running through there. After re-reading it sounds a lot like the cooling issues we had with the Monte's 3400. Also invest in a Haynes/Chiltons Manual for your car.
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Old 11-19-2010, 01:25 AM   #20
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there is tons of info on this topic on ls1tech.com BUT that looks normal to me you oil ps1 shold always be high on the guage
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