Fuse Pull: Low Octane Fuel Fix For L99 and LS3. Reset Fuel Map for High Octane Fuel.

[WadeWilson]

Pulled mine last night around 6 and put them back in at 6 this morning. I started it to let it idle for a few minutes. Idled a little rough at first and it took about 5 minutes before it felt and sounded normal but once I pulled out and got on the gas I would have to say it worked! First time I've chirped my tires in my L99 and I felt it actually had more to give but I let off. Thanks irpq11 for making this thread a sticky and helping those of us that have thought our cars were a little sluggish.

[WadeWilson]

Another thing, I live in Cali so no 93 for me here. :( I use 91 but I've thought about adding some octane booster but didn't know if it would work. Any thoughts?

[CamaroSpike23]

Originally Posted by irpq11

How can someone 'nay say' after the vids? I would have had to 'botch' the first on purpose.

you are really a ford spy sent here to screw over GM

Originally Posted by Scott@Bjorn3D

Yeah Randy and I both had a talk about all the naysayers and telling us we did not know how to drive and his 21" wheels was the cause.

GUESS NOT HUH

the wheels might account for maybe 0.1-0.3 sec difference, but not a full 1-2 second difference

[benjaminkeith]

Originally Posted by orange_5thgen

NOW CALL ME CRAZY, call me whacky but I swear it shifts a lot better now and smoother.

You're NOT crazy. My shifts better too! (Or maybe we're BOTH hypnotized)

I'm glad you said something, because I thought I was going a little crazy, or just wanting the 5/20 pull to work so bad that I was imagining better shifting!

[MikeW]

This is good stuff!
I am very impressed with all the information available here.
I drive a 2SS/RS A6 but always had the high octane so did not have this problem.
But if an issue ever comes up....I know where I am going first
MikeW

[BamaCommando]

Originally Posted by MikeW

This is good stuff!
I am very impressed with all the information available here.
I drive a 2SS/RS A6 but always had the high octane so did not have this problem.
But if an issue ever comes up....I know where I am going first
MikeW

I have my experience posted earlier but as far as I know (since I didn't do it myself) my car has only had 93 octane since it came off of the truck. That being said, they do have gasoline in them from the factory and I can only contribute the improvement after pulling fuses to low octane gas from the factory. I didn't know I had a problem either until I put the stopwatch on it before and then after the fuse pulls.
Unless you have the stopwatch times already indicating you are getting the acceleration that you are supposed to be getting, I would check it and be sure that it is running like it is supposed to and if not, pull the fuses.
For those of us who have pulled them and seen the difference, there is no going back!

[MikeW]

Originally Posted by BamaCommando

I have my experience posted earlier but as far as I know (since I didn't do it myself) my car has only had 93 octane since it came off of the truck. That being said, they do have gasoline in them from the factory and I can only contribute the improvement after pulling fuses to low octane gas from the factory. I didn't know I had a problem either until I put the stopwatch on it before and then after the fuse pulls.
Unless you have the stopwatch times already indicating you are getting the acceleration that you are supposed to be getting, I would check it and be sure that it is running like it is supposed to and if not, pull the fuses.
For those of us who have pulled them and seen the difference, there is no going back!

You know your are right!
Got nothing to lose and everything to gain
I'm doing it tonight and will restore in the morning
Thanks!

[ffrcobra_65]

Ok, Im in, Im gonna pull the fuses tonight to see if it makes a diffence on my MN6 SS. I'll report back tomorrow.

BTW, do I need fuse tweezers or finger pull is fine?

[DDustiNN]

Originally Posted by ffrcobra_65

Ok, Im in, Im gonna pull the fuses tonight to see if it makes a diffence on my MN6 SS. I'll report back tomorrow.

BTW, do I need fuse tweezers or finger pull is fine?

The fuse grabber tool is inside the box with the fuses. You could use your fingers, but it won't exactly be easy... Just use the tool

[duder4thgen]

Originally Posted by 2011DropTop

I already knew about this trick, from what I understand this has been a long standing big secret about cars with computers. I tried this on my avalanche......unhook the battery(either post doesn't matter) turn the ignition key on and let it sit for at least an hour, turn the ignition back off, hook the battery back up and Whala! it actually works. Like any computer it has capacitors that hold a charge like that little lithium button battery you find on a mother board of a PC, whe the car battery is unhooked the computer has residual energy stored up, by turning on the ignition it helps dischsrge the computer and thus resetting the learning cycle that the computer has to go through.
Another thing to note that is very important, if you are to ever need to jump start someones car with yours, then make sure that your car is NOT on or running!, make sure the keys are out of the ignition! like any computer the one in your car can can collect information from the other car and whatever may be wrong with that car will be misconstrued as a problem with your car. If their car wont start straight from your battery then there is a whole lot more wrong with their car than just a bad battery.

Dont. Do. This.

You always disconnect the ground first, no matter what.

Be very carefull turning the key with the battery disconnected. If either the positive OR negative cables grounded out, with the key forward (ECM switched to on) you will fry the ECM in a heartbeat. Personally, I would wait a little bit after disconnecting the battery before turning the key forward again (let the ECM completely discharge), and would only do so if you needed to unlock the steering wheel. The electronics on modern cars are extremely sensitive, the smallest little jolt of electricity will empty your wallet in a heartbeat.

And no, cars cannot talk through jumper cables.

[PQ]

Originally Posted by CamaroSpike23

you are really a ford spy sent here to screw over GM


the wheels might account for maybe 0.1-0.3 sec difference, but not a full 1-2 second difference

Oh, and I may have to put the stocks on my car if I keep 'loosing' tire.

Originally Posted by benjaminkeith

You're NOT crazy. My shifts better too! (Or maybe we're BOTH hypnotized)

I'm glad you said something, because I thought I was going a little crazy, or just wanting the 5/20 pull to work so bad that I was imagining better shifting!

[CamaroSpike23]

Originally Posted by irpq11

Attachment 49692



Oh, and I may have to put the stocks on my car if I keep 'loosing' tire.

I told you to do that anyway. save the rubber on the pretty wheels, and smoke the isht out of the stockers.

[tribone]

Originally Posted by Stang_Killer

Another thing, I live in Cali so no 93 for me here. :( I use 91 but I've thought about adding some octane booster but didn't know if it would work. Any thoughts?

You need 4.3 Gallons of 100 Octane with the rest of 91 Octane to get a true 93 Octane rating. There's another thread about this title No 93 Octane in California.

[Ject]

Originally Posted by irpq11

:( What the hell? This isn't supposed to happen. Wonder if you 'blew' something else?

Originally Posted by CamaroSpike23

where did you fill up?

So far no luck on getting back to at least normal. Kwik Shop 91 Octane with 5 gallons of 100 octane (should be 93 octane or just a hair above)

Runs worse now then when I was running just 91 Octane before the fuse pull. Temperatures outside are even 5-10 degrees lower today then past few days.

Current:
480ish miles, 79 degrees with about 47% humidity = 5.56 best run (91 Octane from pump with 5 gallons of 100 Octane)

Before:
360ish miles, 88 degrees with about 59% humidity ran 0-60 in 4.81 best run (91 Octane straight from pump)