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Old 03-17-2017, 11:09 AM   #43
eLeSthree
 
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Not that this should account for 100whp, but my exhuast should flow much better than yours. I have the 2 inch primaries with 3 inch collectors, absolutley no restrictions in the exhaust path. No cats, 3 inch x pipe, and 3 inch straight through magnaflows.

Are you sure your valvetrain is correct?
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Old 03-17-2017, 11:12 AM   #44
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Do you have access to your tune file? Is it hp tuners?
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Old 03-17-2017, 11:47 AM   #45
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I don't have access to my file. Next tune I get I will be getting a handheld tuner just so I can look at it... And valvetrain should be kosher. New springs, push rods, and retainers. I do have valvetrain noise but I've deemed it normal... I know the dyno is just a tool so hopefully I can get some 1/4 mile times to see what it's actually doing.
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Old 03-17-2017, 03:12 PM   #46
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Its easy to see that this needs to spin waaayyyyy higher than 5800. There is your missing power. 6500 should see a good 30-40rwhp increase. Your tuner aint good.
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Old 03-17-2017, 04:12 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WHAMMO View Post
Its easy to see that this needs to spin waaayyyyy higher than 5800. There is your missing power. 6500 should see a good 30-40rwhp increase. Your tuner aint good.
and +1 on this...hard to read the pic...you should be able to spin to 6800...heck I go 7k at will...run that sucker....peace out
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Old 03-17-2017, 04:53 PM   #48
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I agree that it should spin higher, but there is still something wrong with that torque curve. I looked at half the charts in the ls3 dyno thread and not one peaks that low.
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Old 03-17-2017, 06:47 PM   #49
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I agree that it should spin higher, but there is still something wrong with that torque curve. I looked at half the charts in the ls3 dyno thread and not one peaks that low.
that's why I was wondering about the cam timing...It just has that look like it's advanced..

btw - just found a dyno graph on Lunati that had the 5250 the same as this dyno chart...with their Boot legger cam...the gm hot cam 5250 was 340 vs 370...go figure..
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Old 03-17-2017, 07:34 PM   #50
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Yea I don't see how it would have been even a degree off. I mean I aligned that sucker right at 12 and 6. It would suck pulling the whole front end off just to check the timing marks... maybe one day i'll get a larger cam :P
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Old 03-18-2017, 09:49 AM   #51
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That smoothed dyno chart looks like crap, no way its near accurate and the smoothing really shows the trouble is hidden and that's not your torque curve most likely tweaking it would be much different on another dyno.


This is SAE on my 13 with just long tubes HFC, CAI with scoop, and the old tsp 235/239 cam .639/.623 and 112 LSA. The data unsmoothed, car has electric power steering and NPP, correction factor for about a 70 degree day/ humidity etc considered with a remote weather station hooked up, tuner is the best around here with two electrical engineering degrees in old work for Boise Cascade, he also uses the stock GM software dealers use he acquired along with the HP tuning. BTW he charges about $550 for a couple hours and has a waiting list months long.... Good Luck SAE versus STD is 15 hp or so, and SAE is what is the gold standard those that use STD are idiots, or deliberately misleading, and not just anyone is good at tuning .
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Old 03-21-2017, 02:26 PM   #52
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Yea I don't see how it would have been even a degree off. I mean I aligned that sucker right at 12 and 6. It would suck pulling the whole front end off just to check the timing marks... maybe one day i'll get a larger cam :P
Timing marks might be lined up, but was the cam degreed/checked? Aftermarket parts on top of aftermarket parts, I would be very surprised if it's degreed in to the exact cam card specs.

I ran into that recently with a friend who's engine seemed lazy on the low end and ripped with crazy power up top. When it should have been a mid range cam. Set up a dial indicator and degree wheel, cam was off by at least 4 degrees even though it was installed straight up. Same problem... aftermarket parts on top of aftermarket parts. They fixed it with an adjustable position timing gear.

I think you can get away with not degree checking a cam, if the cam was cam doctored. And if OE timing gears used. ie a C5R chain on OE Chevy cam gears. Less likely then to be stacking up aftermarket variations.

Just a guess, and plenty of other things can cause a power issue. But if the tq curve is way off, good idea to check the #1 intake valve events against the cam card. If the timing mark dots were off, you'd probably have lunched the engine. Its the couple degree variations is aftermarket stuff that screws up the tq curve... assuming tuning is correct.
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Old 03-23-2017, 03:30 PM   #53
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Yea I'm not sure. I want to atleast get a good tuner to check out my tune before anything... Just don't want to pay another 5-600 to be told everything's good
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Old 11-17-2017, 03:48 PM   #54
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Talked with Howards cam about this asa cam 197715-10 they have a specific part come up for springs mentioned above and pushrods 95018 it is a 7.4 length so very interested if some one got a longer measurement?
spoke with a shop with lots of builds up here and stated they have used stock push rods in up to 1000 hp builds...
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