12-25-2020, 10:05 AM | #1 |
Drives: '14 1LE Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: NJ
Posts: 2,435
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CFD Crossmember Flange on Z/28?
Does anyone know if this interferes with the Z/28 belly pan? Thanks!
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12-27-2020, 03:16 PM | #2 |
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I just put mine back on a little while ago and was looking at that. It looks like the belly pan would need to be opened up to make that work. There are two bolts that go into that cross member as well.
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2014 Camaro SS L99, Ashen Grey w/Black Leather - Build thread - http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=491561
Mods - GPI 416 w/Custom Grind Cam, Ported Heads & Tuned by Ben, Mag Heartbeat, ZL1 Fuel Pump & DSX Aux Pump, NW 103 TB, FIC 1650's, Alky Meth, Circle D 3600 Triple Disc, RPM 5” CAI, Kooks Headers, Solo Cat Back, Viking Coil Overs & all the BMR Goodies in the rear, Zl1 3.23 Diff, DSS Axles, Gulfcoast Driveshaft, Hendrix Offset Diff Bushings, AFE Solid Subframe Bushings, 875HP/843TQ 5FDP |
12-27-2020, 10:39 PM | #3 |
Drives: '14 1LE Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: NJ
Posts: 2,435
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I was looking back at pics in an old post of mine, and I think the absence of those nutsert holes in the cross member is the biggest issue. The flanges would stick down, but it may not be far enough to be problematic (and if it is, I could easily open it up a bit as you indicated).
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12-28-2020, 07:01 AM | #4 | |
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Quote:
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2014 Camaro SS L99, Ashen Grey w/Black Leather - Build thread - http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=491561
Mods - GPI 416 w/Custom Grind Cam, Ported Heads & Tuned by Ben, Mag Heartbeat, ZL1 Fuel Pump & DSX Aux Pump, NW 103 TB, FIC 1650's, Alky Meth, Circle D 3600 Triple Disc, RPM 5” CAI, Kooks Headers, Solo Cat Back, Viking Coil Overs & all the BMR Goodies in the rear, Zl1 3.23 Diff, DSS Axles, Gulfcoast Driveshaft, Hendrix Offset Diff Bushings, AFE Solid Subframe Bushings, 875HP/843TQ 5FDP |
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12-28-2020, 08:40 AM | #5 |
Drives: 2SS/RS L99 BLACK Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Franklin , MA
Posts: 6,696
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I think everyone is over thinking this. It should be fairly easy to do. If you follow the simple instructions posted everything will self align. The crossmember will almost be in the exact position it was originally in. The only difference there could be is the thickness of the blade you use and the neatness of the cut. I haven't installed them with a belly pan personally but what I would do is simply follow the instructions. Before tack welding the flanges on the crossmember put the belly pan in place to verify alignment. Once you have it exact, it should be just about there on it's own, remove the pan and tack the crossmember. The amount the flanges protrude below the crossmember is about 1/4", if it's an issue simply put 1/4" spacers between the pan and it's mounting points.
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12-28-2020, 09:28 AM | #6 |
Drives: '14 1LE Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: NJ
Posts: 2,435
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Good point, that should work but adds a little bit more complexity to the installation. I don't weld, so I would need to find a shop that is willing/able.
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12-28-2020, 09:33 AM | #7 | |
Drives: '14 1LE Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: NJ
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Quote:
However, the nutsert holes (i.e., where the nutserts are inserted for bolting the belly pan) are missing from your crossmember. Re-using the original crossmember (which includes the nutsert holes) could fix that problem. IIRC the earlier 5th gens did not have these nutsert holes, but I know they are in the '14-'15 models. |
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12-28-2020, 09:40 AM | #8 | |
Drives: 2SS/RS L99 BLACK Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Franklin , MA
Posts: 6,696
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Quote:
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12-28-2020, 09:44 AM | #9 |
Drives: '14 1LE Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: NJ
Posts: 2,435
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