May have to sell, just getting opinions for now...

[HoodCheck]

Given some personal things going on and what not that *might* force me to sell the Z at some point soon, I'm trying to decide that if I have to do that, if I should pay a couple grand to have the stock parts put back on and slap a stock tune back on and just sell my aftermarket parts separately (I did some tinkering to check on offers from dealerships and all were in the low 30s and blaming the mods for low offers, no joke). Or do you guys think it'd be better to put it on the market with all the mods, and perhaps offer the stock parts I still have for a grand or 2 more on top?

Not sure she'll have to go yet, but trying to get my ducks in a row just in case...

This is the build (not counting the 7" Pioneer stereo w/ wireless AA and wireless carplay):

1. GPI - Ported OEM LS7 Cylinder Heads
(EXTENDED) MANGANESE BRONZANIUM 90 VALVE GUIDES × 1
BRIAN TOOLEY RACING - .685" LIFT VALVE SPRING KIT WITH TITANIUM RETAINERS FOR LS7 ENGINES (SK702) - BRONZE GUIDE .565" ID .060" THICK
FERREA - LS7 EXHAUST VALVE, STAINLESS STEEL, HOLLOW (F2042P) (NA BUILDS)
GPI - LS7 CYLINDER HEAD MILLING SERVICE - MINIMUM RESURFACING
2. CHE bronze trunnions
3. GPI SS1 cam (In./Ex. Duration 231/253 - In./Ex. Valve Lift .648/.639 LSA 111 ICL +4)
GPI - 3/8" Hardened Pushrods
4. C5R timing chain
5. FAST LSXr intake manifold
OEM style fuel rails
6. Nick Williams 102mm throttle body
7. Kooks 1 7/8" long tube headers with green cats
ceramic coated "turbo black" w/ 2000 deg. coating
8. Front tow hook
9. Rear tow hook

Post dyno tune, it was pushing 540/486; after a fairly extensive and picky street tune, she picked up a bit but haven't dynoed yet, we are guesstimating 570/500 range.

[j o n]

Originally Posted by HoodCheck

Or do you guys think it'd be better to put it on the market with all the mods, and perhaps offer the stock parts I still have for a grand or 2 more on top?

IMO, sell as is, given you'd have to pay to have the stock parts back on. Sell the stock parts separately.

You ask whatever you'd like, however, the market has shown... a modded car will bring the same, if not less as a 100% stock car of similar condition/mileage. Caveats do exist though... some people may want exactly what you're offering and/or it's a convenient location for the purchase. For the most part though, your car will most likely sell in the low $40k's, high $30k's:

https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-...firstRecord=25

[HoodCheck]

Originally Posted by j o n

IMO, sell as is, given you'd have to pay to have the stock parts back on. Sell the stock parts separately.

You ask whatever you'd like, however, the market has shown... a modded car will bring the same, if not less as a 100% stock car of similar condition/mileage. Caveats do exist though... some people may want exactly what you're offering and/or it's a convenient location for the purchase. For the most part, though, your car will most likely sell in the low $40k's, high $30k's:

https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-...firstRecord=25

Thanks Jon

Market prices are low right now due to it being winter though; they did the same the last couple years (I bought in the winter because of that lol). They'll jump back up by a few grand come spring, but if I have to sell it, I'm not sure how long it will be before I'm forced to. I would probably stick it up for mid-40s, and likely let the stock parts slide with it at that price.

On the flip side though; where it may cost me 2k to put stock parts back on, the headers alone with the coating represent ~2.6k, heads another 4k, etc, which if I got the same stock vs modified, then it may make more sense to flip the aftermarket parts to get a better return. But, time is money too...

[HoodCheck]

My alternative plan: Get rid of my '16 Suburban instead and get something with a lower payment to fit the kids. Hell, with that payment, I could get a hellcat lol.

[AustexaSS]

Originally Posted by HoodCheck

My alternative plan: Get rid of my '16 Suburban instead and get something with a lower payment to fit the kids. Hell, with that payment, I could get a hellcat lol.

Keep the Z/28 (for your sanity) trade the Surburban for a used paid in full minivan with a reliable power train and an “I Don’t Care” interior for the kids to abuse...I mean enjoy, just periodically remind them that it will be their first car in a few years.

[96SS390]

Personally for every guy out there looking for a clean "stock" version I think there is equally as many guys out there looking to benefit from someone else's work I think you will have no problem selling modified (i.e. I may even be interested for the right price lol).

This being said as with anyone who has spent money on aftermarket going into it the expectation is you should always plan on losing a majority of those costs. If it was a simple "demodification" I would say maybe but to be honest your situation is a little more complex unless you have some people that would do the work for free.

I think you will attract more interest with the car the way it is and although it may not command more money than say the other couple dozen stock one's on the market at any time it may help you sell it a lot faster.

Just my .02 though. Send me a PM if you do decide to sell as I was looking at something similar recently but it sold. Side note I am a little surprised at the dyno numbers compared to one's I have seen with similar mods, most of them had the Atomic Intake though but I can't figure that makes the 20-30hp difference.

[Mark_Z28]

As someone who has looked at some modded Z28s, the mod list is great but a dynosheet that includes a final tune and a baseline speaks volumes as to where the car stands. Also a package from a well known shop(raceproven, vengeance, LME, and others I'm sure) will also help. Otherwise, modding probably will not net you anything extra on resale. Your parts list is also sort of unorthodox(this is just in my opinion), as you have the NW102 but you use a fast not MSD(which is what goes on most LS7s now - and usually its mamo ported MSD), and also you're on the smaller headers(not 2" inch headers). You may have the power there, just nothing to prove that its there, other than the installed parts.

If you can get it dynoed on a dyno where a few C6Zs were done or another z28, and post the sheet, that would serve as evidence that the power is there to justify the price difference over a stock car. Other option is to see if GPI can advertise the car to their customer base. They may have a customer that likes their work and would jump on a modded z28 with their package.

[HoodCheck]

Originally Posted by 96SS390

Personally for every guy out there looking for a clean "stock" version I think there is equally as many guys out there looking to benefit from someone else's work I think you will have no problem selling modified (i.e. I may even be interested for the right price lol).

This being said as with anyone who has spent money on aftermarket going into it the expectation is you should always plan on losing a majority of those costs. If it was a simple "demodification" I would say maybe but to be honest your situation is a little more complex unless you have some people that would do the work for free.

I think you will attract more interest with the car the way it is and although it may not command more money than say the other couple dozen stock one's on the market at any time it may help you sell it a lot faster.

Just my .02 though. Send me a PM if you do decide to sell as I was looking at something similar recently but it sold. Side note I am a little surprised at the dyno numbers compared to one's I have seen with similar mods, most of them had the Atomic Intake though but I can't figure that makes the 20-30hp difference.

I was purposefully keeping it "gentle" enough to maintain for daily driving I could've gone a little more aggressive with the tune and pushed the numbers higher, but when we did that, it came at the cost of the car not liking the AC on and odd things like that. Tbh though, the numbers came out lower than I expected initially, but luckily the street tune picked some more up. I just have to get it back on the dyno.

[HoodCheck]

Originally Posted by Mark_Z28

As someone who has looked at some modded Z28s, the mod list is great but a dynosheet that includes a final tune and a baseline speaks volumes as to where the car stands. Also a package from a well known shop(raceproven, vengeance, LME, and others I'm sure) will also help. Otherwise, modding probably will not net you anything extra on resale. Your parts list is also sort of unorthodox(this is just in my opinion), as you have the NW102 but you use a fast not MSD(which is what goes on most LS7s now - and usually its mamo ported MSD), and also you're on the smaller headers(not 2" inch headers). You may have the power there, just nothing to prove that its there, other than the installed parts.

If you can get it dynoed on a dyno where a few C6Zs were done or another z28, and post the sheet, that would serve as evidence that the power is there to justify the price difference over a stock car. Other option is to see if GPI can advertise the car to their customer base. They may have a customer that likes their work and would jump on a modded z28 with their package.

It was dyno tuned initially; I have the sheet from that, but they missed a lot and it resulted in poorer daily driveability (something that was a must from the get go for me) with frequent stalls in reverse, and very odd idling with occasional stalls with the AC on. As a result I went and had it street tuned (Tampa Tuning was who did the 2nd tune) and got more power out of it and *vastly* increased the driveability. No more choosing to buck or stay above 2200 RPM; now it cruises at 1700 w/o any bucking I just haven't gotten it back on the dyno after the street tune yet. Called the place twice with no callback, go figure.
Shop wise, the closest ones with big names are decently far away from me, and time (plus kids) doesn't allow me to make the trips. It was a well known shop in the central FL area though (360 Customs) that did the work and initial dyno tune. Basically I looked at what those packages entailed, and slapped parts together over time. I went with the FAST over MSD because it was too good of a deal to pass up at the time (got it for half price), and because the fuel rail covers can be modded to fit over it and retain the stock look. I also went with blacking out the engine bay as much as I could (headers are coated black, black TB, etc), and I couldn't accomplish that one with the MSD. MSD *was* the one I planned to go with.

[HoodCheck]

Originally Posted by AustexaSS

Keep the Z/28 (for your sanity) trade the Surburban for a used paid in full minivan with a reliable power train and an “I Don’t Care” interior for the kids to abuse...I mean enjoy, just periodically remind them that it will be their first car in a few years.

Well, I have 6 kids, but they range in age from 6-18, with one rolling out to the Army in June, the next one graduating next school year...can't do a minivan though regardless lol (they are actually too small for my family). I'm thinking a crew cab truck or perhaps a sedan of some sort. But I like your thinking lol!

[Zslash28]

Good reason why my wife and I drive Honda Pilot and CRV respectively. Both of those are paid off. Easy to maintain, low upkeep cost, good on gas, low insurance.

[HoodCheck]

Originally Posted by Zslash28

Good reason why my wife and I drive Honda Pilot and CRV respectively. Both of those are paid off. Easy to maintain, low upkeep cost, good on gas, low insurance.

39 yrs old and great credit and I *still* can't get low insurance lol. With 1 18 yr old, and covering him only for a '12 Focus as a driver, and my '15 Z28, and a '16 4Runner and Suburban, freakin 700 a month :| It was damn near 500 before adding my son.
I have a squeaky clean record too, as did my wife until very recently.

[j o n]

Originally Posted by HoodCheck

39 yrs old and great credit and I *still* can't get low insurance lol. With 1 18 yr old, and covering him only for a '12 Focus as a driver, and my '15 Z28, and a '16 4Runner and Suburban, freakin 700 a month :| It was damn near 500 before adding my son.
I have a squeaky clean record too, as did my wife until very recently.

You pay $8,400/yr for 4 cars? Even at $6,000 before your son doesn't make any sense if indeed you have no history or factors working against you. Shop around

[HoodCheck]

Originally Posted by j o n

You pay $8,400/yr for 4 cars? Even at $6,000 before your son doesn't make any sense if indeed you have no history or factors working against you. Shop around

Yep. Although tbh I never sat down to do the math because of how high it was...but, damn, yea...
Shopped around with literally everyone; they were pretty much on par with every other place. Except USAA, they tried to anally rape me with their quote slow and dry. It was ridiculous (to the tune of like 1200 a month)! Plus I have the caveat of having to find a place to do home insurance, or my current insurance company jacks the rate WAY up for not having car insurance with them too. Rip off artists man...
About to get worse too since my wife ran over a mailbox and screwed up the 4Runner a couple weeks ago (its still in the shop) :|
Don't know why my bill has always been so high. My son is a new driver (just over a couple years experience, with only getting his real license less than a year ago), so I expected a big jump with him added, but for me, yea, I'd expect WAY less....and for my wife who had a clean record for like 8 yrs.
I haul ass around, but no tickets in a LONG time (11 yrs or something like that), only 3 in 24 yrs or so (at least legal driving, more if you count pre-licensed driving lol), and no at fault accidents or damage either ever.