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Old 11-19-2013, 01:34 PM   #57
StevenM
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I checked my Elite can last week after about 1500 miles of driving. I had nowhere near that much oil get collected in my can.
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Old 11-19-2013, 01:59 PM   #58
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I checked my Elite can last week after about 1500 miles of driving. I had nowhere near that much oil get collected in my can.
What kind of driving? Highway, stop and go, how often WOT? Once a day? Once a week?

At what mileage did you install the can?
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Old 11-19-2013, 05:06 PM   #59
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Curious OP what is your oil level? Is it over the full line? Also check that the air box is seated correctly (all of the tabs "in") over the filter - mine wasn't.
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Old 11-19-2013, 05:15 PM   #60
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Curious OP what is your oil level? Is it over the full line? Also check that the air box is seated correctly (all of the tabs "in") over the filter - mine wasn't.
Oil level was never past the full mark, be rest assured of that!

I'll double check the air box seating that you speak of.
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Old 11-19-2013, 06:08 PM   #61
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I'm not saying you don't have a problem but that could be the result of new engine break in. Not many put a can on at 500mi or less. Almost all the pics and responses of others are from fully broken in engines. I myself didn't put mine on until 6k miles and 2k miles later only had a couple TBSP. If I had put in on a brand new engine I am sure it would have collected a sh!tload until it was broken in. I broke my engine in HARD changing the oil and filter often. I truly believe if you have a new motor and get it up to full operating temps and do as many WOT pulls as possible with enough cool down between and plenty of high ZDDP oil and filter changes that the engine will have little blowby. Again not saying you don't have another problem, just stating a possibility.

Off topic, but has anyone ever seen a Coyote motor with a catch can from day 1? They will collect even more oil than that until its broken in.
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Old 11-20-2013, 05:52 PM   #62
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Update: not conclusive yet.................
checked the can today and it "appears" as though it is not catching as much oil. it is a bit early to celebrate, but things look hopeful.
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Old 11-25-2013, 12:50 PM   #63
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Any more news of this?
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Old 11-26-2013, 09:12 AM   #64
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2nd update:
the can is definately collecting a LOT less oil with the can inlet connected to the valve cover.
i went by the dealer to see if they would provide a valley cover, but they said my car was modified..............blah, blah, blah and the engine was no longer covered by the warranty.
SO, i'll get one ordered and replace the cover (the engine will look better without the hose running across to the valve cover). due to work and other things, i probably won't do the repair until late Jan or sometime in March. if not done by then, i'll post a DIY on the repair.
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Old 11-26-2013, 10:14 AM   #65
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We are pulling an intake manifold here pretty soon on a local club car to send off for porting. I can take some pictures for you guys if you want. It is a really simple process though. I think you would be fine if you just dug in.

1) Pull the green lock tab up and disconnect the connector from each injector. I pulled the spark plug wires and removed the coil pack brackets too. I'm not sure if that was necessary or not. I was checking under valve covers as well in my case.

2) Release excess fuel pressure in the rail with the valve on the front end of the driver's side fuel rail. Just get a bunch of rags to catch the fuel.

3) Use a fuel rail disconnect tool to release the feed line that crosses over the intake plenum and attaches on the driver's side. Hang the feed line up and out of the way from the hood strut. Use rags here too... some fuel will spill out.

4) Use some pliers to loosen the clamp on the brake booster line so you can pull the hose off the side of the brake reservoir. This is the thick black hose that runs to the back of the intake manifold from the driver's side. My clamp was a bit of a PITA because the tabs on the clamp were facing the firewall.

5) Remove all of the intake manifold bolts. They are long bolts and you won't be able to get the bolts in the very back out. They will hit the cowl. Just have someone hold them up while you pull the intake manifold out towards the front. Be VERY careful when you do this. That brake booster line runs behind a sensor that is sticking up out of the block. It is really easy to break off if the hose gets caught on it. Just lift the hose over the sensor as you pull the manifold out.

6) The valley cover is just a plate bolted onto the block... you won't have any trouble figuring that part out .

I probably forgot something, but you should be able to stumble through it.
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Old 11-26-2013, 03:30 PM   #66
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Thx thahemp, step 2 is particularly intelligent.
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Old 11-26-2013, 06:22 PM   #67
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Old 11-26-2013, 08:46 PM   #68
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I would say something is wrong. I run my LS3 hard to redline probably 20 times a day in 1st gear and have almost 20K miles on mine and have not had that much oil in my Elite can total.

And yes my rear tires hate me. One second set now.
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Old 01-01-2014, 10:40 AM   #69
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Any update on this?
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Old 01-01-2014, 12:00 PM   #70
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I would say something is wrong. I run my LS3 hard to redline probably 20 times a day in 1st gear and have almost 20K miles on mine and have not had that much oil in my Elite can total.

And yes my rear tires hate me. One second set now.
Yes, but ONCE AGAIN, you are yet an other user reporting observations on a fully broken-in engine.

I'd like to hear from those who added a catch can shortly after driving away from the show room on a virgin engine, and driving exactly as you have reported.

..........

thahemp any updates?

I won't have any myself until April at the very least.
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