Fuel pump trouble, 1st time posting - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

MR. C · 04-20-2015, 10:04 PM

first of all< I hope I am posting in the correct location. I need some help. I have 2010 SS with just over 30K miles. I have had an ongoing issue while driving mostly in cruise control. while driving the car starts to "buck" maybe 3 or 4 times. It'll do it maybe four times. I check my engine fluids and belts frequently. I noticed my antifreeze was really low. after topping it off it seemed it fixed the bucking problem, but it didn't. oh the bucking issue had been going on for a few months. Now when I start the car up, it will start up nice and strong then immediately die. I if I give it gas while staring it will rev just a little but still die. I got it started once drove it about 10 miles then it died while driving. I was able to push in the clutch then start it back up. after I got It back running it died again on the road while I was driving about 2 min later. Once again I got it started and made it home, but I have never been able to start it again (only tried to crank it twice since then) the vehicle usually sits for about a week between starts. oh when it was running when I would start it up about 40sec after start up I would hear a knocking noise in the back of the car almost like someone knocking lightly on my trunk ( but I think it has always done this) I am trying to determine if it is a bad fuel filter or pump or something totally different.

Eddiefuzz · 04-20-2015, 11:52 PM

My V-6 with 76,500 miles has been "bucking" like that for a few months now. I was narrowing it down the fuel injectors, because I thought the fuel pump would just stop working. I've noticed that when the fuel level get below 1/3 it does it more. It seems to happen, not only on cruise, but when the RPMs are below 1300 around 35 to 45 mph. Over the winter, when it was -5 the car wouldn't start, the starter would crank, but it wouldn't start. Good luck with your car, keep us posted on your fix.

MR. C · 04-28-2015, 12:45 PM

Thanks Eddiefuzz, I have not figured out what the problem with my car is yet, I have just been driving my truck. I think it may have something to do with my fuel pressure. Once I hooked a fuel pressure checker to my fuel rail the car started up with no problem and ran until I shut it off, the fuel pressure was setting at 60, I am not sure but I think that may be to much as the vehicle sat (not running) the fuel pressure actually went up to 70. I Just have not had time to look up the proper fuel pressure numbers. one thing I have noticed I can not seem to find the fuel pressure regulator anywhere on my engine. When ever I do a search for one online at auto parts stores they always have different pictures.

Rock-It Man · 04-28-2015, 02:45 PM

Not to change the subject, but since you also mentioned low coolant, you need to check the fitting at the engine block for the hose that runs coolant back to the oil cooler. The fitting is on the rear driver's side of the block.

The leak may be too small to drip on the ground, but if you see any moisture around the fitting , you have this known problem, and need to get it fixed. There's a TSB on this.

Coolant will not be very low unless there's a leak, even on a 5 year old car.

MR. C · 05-05-2015, 10:50 AM

Thanks I'll give that a check

MR. C · 05-05-2015, 10:53 AM

Does anyone know what the fuel pressure reading for a 2010 Camaro SS should be? Mine is at 60 and after the car has sat it goes up to 70. I have been having trouble finding the fuel pressure regulator, I am very busy and only have about 5 min a day to look at the vehicle

Keachj06 · 05-07-2015, 11:50 AM

check your maf get a can of maf cleaner for about 7 bucks clean it up real good, the MAF is a real sensitive component to proper AFR and can cause this bucking , also it could be your TPS but more than likely its your maf, with 30k on the clock its not common but ive had a few bad MAFS even after cleaning if you see an improvement and its not back to normal swap out the maf with a new one.

Keachj06 · 05-07-2015, 11:56 AM

take your key put it to the on position the last position before cranking and listen outside the vehicle near the trunk for a "whirring" noise if it sounds like that it means your pump is priming and creating fuel pressure.if it sounds weak that will tell you if your pump is dying, if you need to remove the gas cap and listen that way. but more than likely iam calling it a bad maf or TPS.

MR. C · 05-13-2015, 09:42 PM

thanks Keachj06, do you think any one of these two would cause it from starting? I turned the key and listened to the fuel pump it started up strong. one thing I remember when it was running o=the first time I started it up for the day and it ran for about 40 sec I would hear a noise in the trunk it sound like someone was knocking on the trunk. Also do you know what the fuel pressure should be. When I try to crank it with a fuel pressure tester connected it reads 60, after several tries and the car never cranks the fuel pressure slowly creeps up to 70

MR. C · 05-14-2015, 09:30 PM

thanks Comrando, would you happen to know what the fuel pressure specs for the Camaro are? My car wont start but while trying to start it the fuel pressure goes to 60 and while it is setting it slowly goes up to 70+

Jason P · 05-14-2015, 10:15 PM

Info I found on fuel pressure is 58 to 60lbs. At idle at the fuel rail.

Keachj06 · 05-14-2015, 11:13 PM

so i think its safe to say its not a fuel delivery issue if you maintain pressure at the rails, next i would move onto is your MAF sensor, TPS normally throws a code or car will go into reduced engine power mode. re reading about adding the coolant after 30k?!? thats not good how much did you need to add? hows your oil look? and when you pull the oil cap after running is there moisture? all signs of a bad head gasket. the fact your adding coolant is a concern. we could just also be chasing a dragon here and chock it up to a bad tank of fuel also in cold weather gas breaks down to moisture especially on a low tank, also try the ECM reset pull your #5 and #20 fuse in your main fuse box under the hood for about a day and put em back in, both fuses should read something like ECM and ECM/IGN use the chart on your fuse box for the info its #5 and #15 or 20 i forget which one but use the chart and youll see what i am talking about. lets rule out the easy and free fixes first before we dive into buying another maf sensor also you could have had one of the GM weak MAF sensors do a search for the MAF weak vs strong thread they are alpha numerical and the longer one is the strong ones the shorter ones are the weaker. try all these and let us know how it goes.

MR. C · 05-15-2015, 09:23 AM

Jason P and Keachj06 thanks so much for all the info. I have checked my oil and there is no coolant mixing with the oil. I had to add about 1 gal of coolant, I have no Idea how it got so low, it was in storage twice both times for over a year during my deployments to Iraq. I did change my MAF sensor two years ago because I had a trouble code letting me know it was bad. Before I forget does anyone know how I can get a Chiltons or Haynes manual for my car? Keachj06 I will pull the fuses today and let you know how that works out, hopefully well. My car has been setting now for over a month without running. I have noticed wasp flying under it and not coming out so I know there will be a wasp nest under there waiting on me if I do need to change my fuel pump. Reading the thread on the bad MAF sensor it seems the weak sensor will still work as long as you have not changed your air intake. Would a bad MAF stop it from cranking? My vehicle usually sits for about 3 or 4 days before starting so fuel stays in my tank for a while. Will bad fuel keep it from cranking? I always thought it make it run crappy. I was thinking the fuel pressure regulator might be bad but I can’t seem to find it on my car, normally it’s on or near the fuel rail. Well let me go pull the fuses, everyone thanks again for all the info

Keachj06 · 05-15-2015, 02:46 PM

A bad MAF wouldn't stop it from cranking another issue very well could be the battery does not carry the sufficient cranking amps to carry the load of the LS3 for initial start , you car sitting for sometime will lose its voltage and if voltage ever dropped below 10 your battery loses its "memory" and will never charge to the required voltage for proper operation, a weak battery can cause electronics to do crazy things from CEL's to a no start condition. try a new battery man, I know when I deploy I use a CTEK battery maintainer to deep cycle the battery to keep it in operating condition. good luck and thanks for your service.

05-05-2015, 10:53 AM	#6
MR. C Drives: 2010 Silver Camaro 2SS Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Ludowici, Ga Posts: 29	2010 Camaro SS fuel pressure??? Does anyone know what the fuel pressure reading for a 2010 Camaro SS should be? Mine is at 60 and after the car has sat it goes up to 70. I have been having trouble finding the fuel pressure regulator, I am very busy and only have about 5 min a day to look at the vehicle

05-14-2015, 10:15 PM	#11
Jason P Drives: 2011 2ss Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: United States Posts: 272	Info I found on fuel pressure is 58 to 60lbs. At idle at the fuel rail. __________________ 2011 2ss Ram twin plate ceramic clutch, Texas speed 418 LS3 235 /243 .621 / .624 cam, ported and polished heads with dual springs,magnum push rods, Hotchkis race pack, Stainless Power long tube headers with no cats, Magna Flo competition exhaust, lpe fuel pump, magnuson supercharger with overdrive and port matched blower plate, IW 8 rib pullies, AEM meth kit, id 850 injectors, 3 bar map, halltech cai, zl1 rear diff

04-20-2015, 10:04 PM	#1
MR. C Drives: 2010 Silver Camaro 2SS Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Ludowici, Ga Posts: 29	Fuel pump trouble, 1st time posting first of all< I hope I am posting in the correct location. I need some help. I have 2010 SS with just over 30K miles. I have had an ongoing issue while driving mostly in cruise control. while driving the car starts to "buck" maybe 3 or 4 times. It'll do it maybe four times. I check my engine fluids and belts frequently. I noticed my antifreeze was really low. after topping it off it seemed it fixed the bucking problem, but it didn't. oh the bucking issue had been going on for a few months. Now when I start the car up, it will start up nice and strong then immediately die. I if I give it gas while staring it will rev just a little but still die. I got it started once drove it about 10 miles then it died while driving. I was able to push in the clutch then start it back up. after I got It back running it died again on the road while I was driving about 2 min later. Once again I got it started and made it home, but I have never been able to start it again (only tried to crank it twice since then) the vehicle usually sits for about a week between starts. oh when it was running when I would start it up about 40sec after start up I would hear a knocking noise in the back of the car almost like someone knocking lightly on my trunk ( but I think it has always done this) I am trying to determine if it is a bad fuel filter or pump or something totally different.

04-20-2015, 11:52 PM	#2
Eddiefuzz Drives: 2011 RS Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Florence New Jersey Posts: 1,125	My V-6 with 76,500 miles has been "bucking" like that for a few months now. I was narrowing it down the fuel injectors, because I thought the fuel pump would just stop working. I've noticed that when the fuel level get below 1/3 it does it more. It seems to happen, not only on cruise, but when the RPMs are below 1300 around 35 to 45 mph. Over the winter, when it was -5 the car wouldn't start, the starter would crank, but it wouldn't start. Good luck with your car, keep us posted on your fix.

04-28-2015, 12:45 PM	#3
MR. C Drives: 2010 Silver Camaro 2SS Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Ludowici, Ga Posts: 29	Thanks Eddiefuzz, I have not figured out what the problem with my car is yet, I have just been driving my truck. I think it may have something to do with my fuel pressure. Once I hooked a fuel pressure checker to my fuel rail the car started up with no problem and ran until I shut it off, the fuel pressure was setting at 60, I am not sure but I think that may be to much as the vehicle sat (not running) the fuel pressure actually went up to 70. I Just have not had time to look up the proper fuel pressure numbers. one thing I have noticed I can not seem to find the fuel pressure regulator anywhere on my engine. When ever I do a search for one online at auto parts stores they always have different pictures.

04-28-2015, 02:45 PM	#4
Rock-It Man 376 cubic inches of fun Drives: 2023 Camaro ZL1 A10 Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: MA Posts: 4,031 View My Garage	Not to change the subject, but since you also mentioned low coolant, you need to check the fitting at the engine block for the hose that runs coolant back to the oil cooler. The fitting is on the rear driver's side of the block. The leak may be too small to drip on the ground, but if you see any moisture around the fitting , you have this known problem, and need to get it fixed. There's a TSB on this. Coolant will not be very low unless there's a leak, even on a 5 year old car.

05-05-2015, 10:50 AM	#5
MR. C Drives: 2010 Silver Camaro 2SS Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Ludowici, Ga Posts: 29	Thanks I'll give that a check

05-07-2015, 11:50 AM	#7
Keachj06 Drives: 15 SS,13 Duc Panigale Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Las Vegas,NV Posts: 133	check your maf get a can of maf cleaner for about 7 bucks clean it up real good, the MAF is a real sensitive component to proper AFR and can cause this bucking , also it could be your TPS but more than likely its your maf, with 30k on the clock its not common but ive had a few bad MAFS even after cleaning if you see an improvement and its not back to normal swap out the maf with a new one.

05-07-2015, 11:56 AM	#8
Keachj06 Drives: 15 SS,13 Duc Panigale Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Las Vegas,NV Posts: 133	take your key put it to the on position the last position before cranking and listen outside the vehicle near the trunk for a "whirring" noise if it sounds like that it means your pump is priming and creating fuel pressure.if it sounds weak that will tell you if your pump is dying, if you need to remove the gas cap and listen that way. but more than likely iam calling it a bad maf or TPS.

05-13-2015, 09:42 PM	#9
MR. C Drives: 2010 Silver Camaro 2SS Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Ludowici, Ga Posts: 29	thanks Keachj06, do you think any one of these two would cause it from starting? I turned the key and listened to the fuel pump it started up strong. one thing I remember when it was running o=the first time I started it up for the day and it ran for about 40 sec I would hear a noise in the trunk it sound like someone was knocking on the trunk. Also do you know what the fuel pressure should be. When I try to crank it with a fuel pressure tester connected it reads 60, after several tries and the car never cranks the fuel pressure slowly creeps up to 70

05-14-2015, 09:30 PM	#10
MR. C Drives: 2010 Silver Camaro 2SS Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Ludowici, Ga Posts: 29	thanks Comrando, would you happen to know what the fuel pressure specs for the Camaro are? My car wont start but while trying to start it the fuel pressure goes to 60 and while it is setting it slowly goes up to 70+

05-14-2015, 11:13 PM	#12
Keachj06 Drives: 15 SS,13 Duc Panigale Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Las Vegas,NV Posts: 133	so i think its safe to say its not a fuel delivery issue if you maintain pressure at the rails, next i would move onto is your MAF sensor, TPS normally throws a code or car will go into reduced engine power mode. re reading about adding the coolant after 30k?!? thats not good how much did you need to add? hows your oil look? and when you pull the oil cap after running is there moisture? all signs of a bad head gasket. the fact your adding coolant is a concern. we could just also be chasing a dragon here and chock it up to a bad tank of fuel also in cold weather gas breaks down to moisture especially on a low tank, also try the ECM reset pull your #5 and #20 fuse in your main fuse box under the hood for about a day and put em back in, both fuses should read something like ECM and ECM/IGN use the chart on your fuse box for the info its #5 and #15 or 20 i forget which one but use the chart and youll see what i am talking about. lets rule out the easy and free fixes first before we dive into buying another maf sensor also you could have had one of the GM weak MAF sensors do a search for the MAF weak vs strong thread they are alpha numerical and the longer one is the strong ones the shorter ones are the weaker. try all these and let us know how it goes.

05-15-2015, 09:23 AM	#13
MR. C Drives: 2010 Silver Camaro 2SS Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Ludowici, Ga Posts: 29	Jason P and Keachj06 thanks so much for all the info. I have checked my oil and there is no coolant mixing with the oil. I had to add about 1 gal of coolant, I have no Idea how it got so low, it was in storage twice both times for over a year during my deployments to Iraq. I did change my MAF sensor two years ago because I had a trouble code letting me know it was bad. Before I forget does anyone know how I can get a Chiltons or Haynes manual for my car? Keachj06 I will pull the fuses today and let you know how that works out, hopefully well. My car has been setting now for over a month without running. I have noticed wasp flying under it and not coming out so I know there will be a wasp nest under there waiting on me if I do need to change my fuel pump. Reading the thread on the bad MAF sensor it seems the weak sensor will still work as long as you have not changed your air intake. Would a bad MAF stop it from cranking? My vehicle usually sits for about 3 or 4 days before starting so fuel stays in my tank for a while. Will bad fuel keep it from cranking? I always thought it make it run crappy. I was thinking the fuel pressure regulator might be bad but I can’t seem to find it on my car, normally it’s on or near the fuel rail. Well let me go pull the fuses, everyone thanks again for all the info

05-15-2015, 02:46 PM	#14
Keachj06 Drives: 15 SS,13 Duc Panigale Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Las Vegas,NV Posts: 133	A bad MAF wouldn't stop it from cranking another issue very well could be the battery does not carry the sufficient cranking amps to carry the load of the LS3 for initial start , you car sitting for sometime will lose its voltage and if voltage ever dropped below 10 your battery loses its "memory" and will never charge to the required voltage for proper operation, a weak battery can cause electronics to do crazy things from CEL's to a no start condition. try a new battery man, I know when I deploy I use a CTEK battery maintainer to deep cycle the battery to keep it in operating condition. good luck and thanks for your service.