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Old 03-27-2016, 11:10 PM   #71
mustang50lx
 
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I decide to get the VMS lug nuts. (Still waiting for the wheels, but at least I got the lug nuts.) They do appear a little thin with the 14mm thread and the 19mm hex size. They appear to be nice quality. I am going to use them.
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Old 04-04-2016, 02:25 AM   #72
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I have a similar issue on my truck I can't get a impact socket on the lug nuts. It won't fit in the hole in the rims. Is that the space you are referring to?
Yea that's what I'm referring too. Don't use stock lugs unless you can find a thin socket.
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Old 04-04-2016, 02:28 AM   #73
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Got mine installed this weekend. Running RT-S S71B 18x9 and 18x10. Nitto NT555 265/50/18 on front and Nitto NT555-R 305/45/18 on the rear.
Had to take off brake pad harmonic balancers from front or the "roller skates". Also had to zip tie emergency brake line on passenger side. Forgot about it and checked tonight. It had rubbed some. Oh well. Zip tie the driver side too as a just in case.

Washed up tires and rims:


Just leaving Discount Tire:


Right after getting lunch with my dad:
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Old 04-04-2016, 05:45 AM   #74
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Old 04-24-2016, 03:52 PM   #75
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Finally got my wheels. I ended up having to use aftermarket bolt in TPMS sensors. I also had to grind a little off the front sensors to get them in straight.
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Old 04-24-2016, 04:54 PM   #76
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Finally got my wheels. I ended up having to use aftermarket bolt in TPMS sensors. I also had to grind a little off the front to get them in straight too.
This is one sexy set up. Very nice bro!
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Old 04-27-2016, 10:21 PM   #77
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All the guys running17" welds did you notch the factory lower control arms or replace them with bmr? I just found out factory lower control arms won't clear... I already have the rims.
If you replaced the control arms do the new ones come with bushings are they easy to install 2 boost and old out new in?
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Old 04-28-2016, 07:38 AM   #78
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17" weld rts fit on mine fine
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Old 04-28-2016, 01:11 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motorboy8769 View Post
All the guys running17" welds did you notch the factory lower control arms or replace them with bmr? I just found out factory lower control arms won't clear... I already have the rims.
If you replaced the control arms do the new ones come with bushings are they easy to install 2 boost and old out new in?
The replacement BMR's that Weld recommend are direct replacement. Nothing extra is needed.
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Old 04-28-2016, 01:19 PM   #80
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Are those the 750$ control arms? That they recommend I only see the other 2 options one for coil over only the other is for lowered cars only.
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Old 04-28-2016, 01:25 PM   #81
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Are those the 750$ control arms? That they recommend I only see the other 2 options one for coil over only the other is for lowered cars only.
Weld states for the 17x10 rim the following: lowered or stock ride height, replace lca with BMR #TCA28 or TCA29. Also they state check clearance on Ebrake cable and swaybar endlinks at right height.

TCA29: http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=p...023&superpro=0
TCA28: http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=p...989&superpro=0

You can use either they have listed.
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Old 04-30-2016, 09:06 PM   #82
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i needed the lca's and adjustable toe rods + ebrake zip ties.
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Old 05-02-2016, 05:27 AM   #83
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Can you fit the weld 17X11 with a 325 on the rear? If so which tire and if not what's the biggest you can go?
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Old 05-02-2016, 10:18 AM   #84
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I think it would be possible for that size rim to fit if you had about 6.25" back spacing my 17x10 with 7.20" back spacing is about an inch to inch and a half from the inner fender liner. Tires I'm not sure how much the sidewall will bulge that would be the only thing. What is the back spacing on the rims you are looking at? With that back spacing the wheels may stick out a hair from the fender also
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