Timing Bushings when lowering (How to)

[BMR Sales]

Timing the Bushings can be done when you are getting it Aligned, but not the same thing.

Keep calling around til you find someone that knows what they are doing. Or Print the beginning of this Thread out and take it with you.

[p.s.]

I can't find one place that will do this in my area. I've gotten laughs from a few places after showing them these instructions. Also got a quote of 400+ from a big chain shop. I'm trying it myself but I can't get the inner control arm loosened.

[Airbornesldr12]

Just got mined timed and alignment at stanfa in south holland IL after 1" slp spring drop,rides better and once again this forum comes thru again

[GSoccerCam]

So it might be a silly question i know.. but in the pics it shows front and right rear ... do we just match it on the left rear ? Or is that all for the rear suspension to reclock? Sorry if its silly in advance...

[MarioSS]

Originally Posted by GSoccerCam

So it might be a silly question i know.. but in the pics it shows front and right rear ... do we just match it on the left rear ? Or is that all for the rear suspension to reclock? Sorry if its silly in advance...

Applies on both sides

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[Avalnch]

Do the aftermarket components that are poly/delrin with an aluminum sleeve need to be "timed"?

[OmniCamaro]

I'm going to attempt to "time bushings" with the car on jack stands. My theory is I can use a jack to lift the knuckle (ensuring I protect it with wood and/or something else soft) and then tighten the bolts while it's under load.

I'm going to do it this way because I'd like to get it done BEFORE I drive it for the alignment. If I can't raise it high enough at least it'll be better than tightening it all at the full down position.

I'll post back with how it works out.


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[KillboyPowerhead]

I was thinking of doing this too with my springs. Just make sure to drive around the block first to make sure the wheels are settled (if you haven't driven around with the new springs yet), then measure from the bottom of the rim up through the centre of the wheel to the fender to see where the wheel sits, then jack up the wheel that far. Let me know how it works out

[camaro500]

Originally Posted by OmniCamaro

I'm going to attempt to "time bushings" with the car on jack stands. My theory is I can use a jack to lift the knuckle (ensuring I protect it with wood and/or something else soft) and then tighten the bolts while it's under load.

I'm going to do it this way because I'd like to get it done BEFORE I drive it for the alignment. If I can't raise it high enough at least it'll be better than tightening it all at the full down position.

I'll post back with how it works out.


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This will not work. You must time the bushings at driving height. Meaning driving the car back and forth in the driveway and then rolling up ramps and timing the bushings.

[KillboyPowerhead]

Any time you change the height of the vehicle you should time the bushings, however, if you're making only a minor change, like 1/4" or less, you may not need to bother (just think: you're tires change about 1/4" in diameter throughout their life), although if you can time the bushings yourself you might as well do so. Also, I think those BMR arms might have a different style bushing which does not need to be timed, but maybe someone else can confirm that.

[edog]

Originally Posted by KillboyPowerhead

Any time you change the height of the vehicle you should time the bushings, however, if you're making only a minor change, like 1/4" or less, you may not need to bother (just think: you're tires change about 1/4" in diameter throughout their life), although if you can time the bushings yourself you might as well do so. Also, I think those BMR arms might have a different style bushing which does not need to be timed, but maybe someone else can confirm that.

Thanks

The bmr style arms have the nipples for greasing. Those wont bind. Only the control arms are stock, So I guess I can see loosening them up.

[FKNGRSY]

I unbolted the outer lower control arm bolts today to help drop my struts and I can say timing your bushings is a must. The inner lower control arm bushings have zero play in them in the sense that if you move the control arm (in the same manner lowering a car would) they spring back into oem position HARD. I was skeptical at first but now I definitely understand timing bushings is a must. Ive never had a car with the metal sleeve bonded to the rubber. Strange.

[edog]

Do you need to reset the end links when you raise or lower? My endlinks are pretty tight. Do you need to adjust them to allow control arms to have better travel?

[KillboyPowerhead]

Sway bar links don't need to be timed as they are a ball-joint type joint. When you put on the coil-overs/springs you'll be removing the links so when you tighten everything back up simply bolt down tight with some blue loc-tite.

Factory links are not adjustable; you can get adjustable front links which I guess would be good for racing so you can corner-balance the car, but otherwise I wouldn't bother; for the rear if you want to adjust them you need to cut them - the ideal mounting position for the rear bar is centered over top of the mount of the control arm (link pointing straight up and down), so if you lower the car you could cut the link shorter but be careful how much you cut off!

Edit: just noticed you have a 2010. If you don't have the new style rear bar I highly suggest going that route. What I said about cutting the link applies to the new style links. I guess with the old style bar your adjustability is pretty limited even with modifications.