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Old 05-20-2019, 09:19 AM   #57
PepeLePew
 
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4WDlifeform - I am going to have my gears done in the next couple of weeks as well. When the case is opened, I'll see if there is any grind marks like in yours. I am pretty sure my diff has ever been opened so if it looks like yours it's probably some cleanup done at the factory.

acammer - I am sure my tuner will go over break in procedures as well. And you may have posted something earlier that I missed, but can you enlighten me as to the preferred method for breaking in a new set of gears? I've always heard about driving gingerly for the first 500 miles but I don't know the specifics on heat cycles and stuff. Can you clarify for me what I should be doing and what not to do?
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Old 05-20-2019, 11:17 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PepeLePew View Post
4WDlifeform - I am going to have my gears done in the next couple of weeks as well. When the case is opened, I'll see if there is any grind marks like in yours. I am pretty sure my diff has ever been opened so if it looks like yours it's probably some cleanup done at the factory.

acammer - I am sure my tuner will go over break in procedures as well. And you may have posted something earlier that I missed, but can you enlighten me as to the preferred method for breaking in a new set of gears? I've always heard about driving gingerly for the first 500 miles but I don't know the specifics on heat cycles and stuff. Can you clarify for me what I should be doing and what not to do?
There are a few key points on new gear break-in. Heat is the enemy - especially in those first hundred miles - those new gears heat up fast. The recommendation on a brand new set of gears is to try to get in several short (15-20 minute) heat cycles (completely cool after each for 2-3hrs). You want a minimum of three, and more like 4-5 if you can, and then you can start taking longer duration drives. All thought that 500 miles though you want to manage heat with some care - I would try to keep driving duration under an hour with plenty of time to cool after each drive. Some people might not be so meticulous about the heat cycles after the first 2-3, but I think it's real important.

Those first couple heat cycles you want to avoid steady highway cruising, you want a drive that varies the speed, has some deceleration zones, etc. You also want to avoid heavy load in those first 500 miles - resist the urge to bury the throttle and be nice to those gears. Once you've got 500 miles on drain and replace the fluid - it will have a pretty good amount of crude in it as those gear faces wear into each other, and it will have been exposed to some pretty serious heat on those first few drives.

Once the fluid is changed - send it. You can do your entire drive-line a big service by pre-loading if you're going to launch the car. I use the emergency brake at the drag strip to hold the car on the line, and right as the tree starts to drop I lightly drag the clutch so that all the slack in the drive-line is taken up before I start the launch.
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Old 05-20-2019, 03:41 PM   #59
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Thank you for the feedback @acammer.

FWIW, here is the break in procedure that came with my gears. Like acammer, I have always heard more heat cycles, and changing the fluid. This procedure is quite simple, but I'll be taking it easy for a few hundred just to be safe.

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Old 05-20-2019, 03:45 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acammer View Post
There are a few key points on new gear break-in. Heat is the enemy - especially in those first hundred miles - those new gears heat up fast. The recommendation on a brand new set of gears is to try to get in several short (15-20 minute) heat cycles (completely cool after each for 2-3hrs). You want a minimum of three, and more like 4-5 if you can, and then you can start taking longer duration drives. All thought that 500 miles though you want to manage heat with some care - I would try to keep driving duration under an hour with plenty of time to cool after each drive. Some people might not be so meticulous about the heat cycles after the first 2-3, but I think it's real important.

Those first couple heat cycles you want to avoid steady highway cruising, you want a drive that varies the speed, has some deceleration zones, etc. You also want to avoid heavy load in those first 500 miles - resist the urge to bury the throttle and be nice to those gears. Once you've got 500 miles on drain and replace the fluid - it will have a pretty good amount of crude in it as those gear faces wear into each other, and it will have been exposed to some pretty serious heat on those first few drives.

Once the fluid is changed - send it. You can do your entire drive-line a big service by pre-loading if you're going to launch the car. I use the emergency brake at the drag strip to hold the car on the line, and right as the tree starts to drop I lightly drag the clutch so that all the slack in the drive-line is taken up before I start the launch.
Awesome... thanks for tips. I get my gear swap done tomorrow and pick it up on Wednesday. I am going to follow these steps to the T.
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Old 05-23-2019, 04:07 PM   #61
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Got the car back today with the new gears. Already have 3 heat cycles in them and 60 miles. Now it's time to be patient for 500 miles while everything settles in. Can't wait to send it.
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Old 05-23-2019, 06:33 PM   #62
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I’ve had my 1LE 3.91 gears installed for about a year and a few thousand miles. Never heat cycled them and haven’t changed the fluid. Don’t believe I need to either. Drove it 300 miles the day after install. No noise. All fun!
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Old 05-24-2019, 07:46 AM   #63
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I was looking at the 3.91 gears when I find a good deal on a full 1LE pumpkin. My car has Vararam intake, LTs, full exhaust, LS7 sparks, MAx Performance package from GPI (Heads, Cam and MSD Airforce Mani). Getting it tuned next friday but should be at or super close to 500RWHP. With that said, I also have on order BMR 1" lowering springs, sway, trail arm and toe rods with rear bushing. This is my daily and will stay my daily (Most likely), with that said is the 3.91 still the gear to get or is 4.1 just that much better? Thank you for any input!
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Old 05-24-2019, 08:12 AM   #64
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An LS7 top end on an LS3 is the business!!! 500whp is a conservative expectation for that setup


As far as the gearing goes, there is a complete Z28 diff for sale here in the classifieds that you may be interested in. Id take a look into that The price is good too. Its far better that the 1LE diff since its a torsen carrier AND it also has 3.91 gears.



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Old 05-24-2019, 09:10 AM   #65
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Ooh nice, is this the one you are talking about?

https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=554244
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Old 05-24-2019, 09:13 AM   #66
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And I guess another question, is it a direct replacement or will I need other mods with it?
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Old 05-24-2019, 10:02 AM   #67
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thats it

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Old 05-24-2019, 10:15 AM   #68
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i can confirm that it is direct replacement (bolt in swap) for a manual trans SS

all i did was put brand new oe axle seals and new cover seal and Z28 Spec diff fluid from the dealer and slapped it in


the feeling of the diff is very different than the stock base SS or 1LE. The rear inner tire will bitch and complain about tight turns and will "grunt". This is normal operation. But, with wide tires, the car will be very confodent around turns.

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