Re-tune needed for strong MAF sensor? - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

tdsikk · 03-03-2016, 05:37 PM

I recently had the AGP turbo kit installed and my car tuned. It seems to run good (love the turbos!!) but it has slight idle issues. I read the thread on the strong MAF and checked, unfortunately it has the weak sensor. Has anyone with the AGP kit changed out their MAF sensor without a retune?

1KillerSS · 03-03-2016, 07:16 PM

Do you have a MAF tune, or SD?

tdsikk · 03-03-2016, 07:54 PM

I'm not really sure but I think an MAF tune....

hammdo · 03-03-2016, 08:20 PM

Unreal may be able to help here. He is the guy to ask about AGP turbos...

-Don

1KillerSS · 03-04-2016, 05:32 AM

Best I can tell you to do is change the MAF, and watch your AFR. See how the car feels. That being said, they say that it is only a factor when you modify the airflow to the car, stock, a weak MAF will present no problems. You have obviously modified your airflow. I'm courious to know the answer to this myself.

tdsikk · 03-04-2016, 11:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1KillerSS

Best I can tell you to do is change the MAF, and watch your AFR. See how the car feels. That being said, they say that it is only a factor when you modify the airflow to the car, stock, a weak MAF will present no problems. You have obviously modified your airflow. I'm courious to know the answer to this myself.

I don't have anything to monitor the AFR; I'm tempted to change the MAF out and take it easy just to see if it runs any different but I don't want to do any damage to the motor if there is a risk...

SeaCompiler · 03-04-2016, 11:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tdsikk

I don't have anything to monitor the AFR; I'm tempted to change the MAF out and take it easy just to see if it runs any different but I don't want to do any damage to the motor if there is a risk...

Not worth the risk to that nice setup to try and gain a few hp or response, if applicable. I would recommend spending $150 to $180 to get an AFR O2 sensor and gauge as cheap insurance and it is something you can continue to use, so it is not a waste.

Unreal · 03-04-2016, 11:32 AM

As soon as you tune a car, the weak/strong maf thing is not even an issue.

Check for boost leaks, vacuum leaks. Those are going to be the most common idle issues. If not could be in the tune. Who tuned it? They should be able to fix and determine why there is any idle issues.

tdsikk · 03-04-2016, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Unreal

As soon as you tune a car, the weak/strong maf thing is not even an issue.

Check for boost leaks, vacuum leaks. Those are going to be the most common idle issues. If not could be in the tune. Who tuned it? They should be able to fix and determine why there is any idle issues.

The idle issue is minor, it starts to surge a bit about 20 seconds after I come to a stop but the surging goes away after about 10-15 seconds. When I first got the car back after the turbo install I had more problems with the idle but I brought it back and the shop worked most of those issues out in the tune.

I became concerned about the MAF the more I read about it on this site and confirmed that I have a weak MAF. I thought it became more of an issue when FI was added? I will probably just bring it back to the shop and talk to them about the MAF and see if they can tune out the bit of surging that I am getting...

fif_gen_powa · 03-04-2016, 01:03 PM

I would never have a FI motor without a afr gauge
Should be the first thing you do

tdsikk · 03-04-2016, 01:28 PM

Thanks guys! I'm learning as I go here... I'll start looking at AFR gauges...

Unreal · 03-04-2016, 03:37 PM

Agreed. Don't worry about weak/strong mafs at all. It isn't even remotely an issue.

tdsikk · 03-05-2016, 08:28 AM

I've been reading some other threads and it looks like at a minimum I need an AFR and boost gauge. Are these mainly used to help with tuning or are there things inherent with a FI motor that may change and damage the motor without monitoring? Sorry for the basic question but this is my first FI car and I'm trying to explain to my wife why I need to spend more $$ on my car.......

cc-rider · 03-05-2016, 09:03 AM

Do you have a wideband sensor in your exhaust? It may not be as simple as just getting an AFR Gauge. It needs a wideband to read from. A boost gauge can be plumbed in fairly easily. Or, you could get a ZR1 3 bar map sensor ($40) and modify 2 parameters in your tune (your tuner should do this for free for you...it's literally typing numbers in 2 boxes and that's it) and then you can read boost either with a gauge or electronically.

Here's an option for you that I used that's pretty slick:

- Get a PLX gen 4 wideband ($150 + installation)
- Get a ZR1 map sensor ($40)
- Get a PLX kiwi 2 device ($85)
- Get the PLX kiwi iMFR adapter ($50)
- Download the DashCommand app on your phone or iPad or whatever ($10 I think)

With all that, you can monitor and even datalog boost and afr right on your phone. It's really slick and works great. You can log a ton more data from the ECU as well with this set up. But I use it for ongoing boost and afr.

I'm willing to help you with this if you want...

03-03-2016, 05:37 PM	#1
tdsikk Drives: 2SSRS Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: South Dakota Posts: 64 View My Garage	Re-tune needed for strong MAF sensor? I recently had the AGP turbo kit installed and my car tuned. It seems to run good (love the turbos!!) but it has slight idle issues. I read the thread on the strong MAF and checked, unfortunately it has the weak sensor. Has anyone with the AGP kit changed out their MAF sensor without a retune?

03-03-2016, 07:16 PM	#2
1KillerSS Too much is never enough! Drives: AGP TT SS [COTW] 4/20/15 Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Toledo,OH Posts: 4,149 View My Garage	Do you have a MAF tune, or SD? __________________ AGP TT kit, 54/57 Forged rotating assembly, Custom grind cam... Dual nozzle meth, ID850's, Livernois dual fuel pumps, ECS BAP, 25% UDP, 3 inch Magnaflow catback with X pipe, Mantic 9000 clutch, DSS 1000hp axles, DSS aluminum driveshaft, ZL1 rear end, solid subframe bushings, HE differential offset bushings, BMR Trailing arm, BMR toe rods, Lingenfelter LNC-2000,SJM Line Lock. 747 whp 714wtq *Build thread* http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...55#post8107855

03-03-2016, 08:20 PM	#4
hammdo 'It's an experiment' Drives: [COTW 2/09/15] '11 GPI LSA SC Z/LE Join Date: May 2014 Location: Dallas TX Posts: 8,694 View My Garage	Unreal may be able to help here. He is the guy to ask about AGP turbos... -Don __________________ 747 RWHP 794 RWTQ "Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races." - Enzo Ferrari See My Build: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=385577

03-04-2016, 05:32 AM	#5
1KillerSS Too much is never enough! Drives: AGP TT SS [COTW] 4/20/15 Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Toledo,OH Posts: 4,149 View My Garage	Best I can tell you to do is change the MAF, and watch your AFR. See how the car feels. That being said, they say that it is only a factor when you modify the airflow to the car, stock, a weak MAF will present no problems. You have obviously modified your airflow. I'm courious to know the answer to this myself. __________________ AGP TT kit, 54/57 Forged rotating assembly, Custom grind cam... Dual nozzle meth, ID850's, Livernois dual fuel pumps, ECS BAP, 25% UDP, 3 inch Magnaflow catback with X pipe, Mantic 9000 clutch, DSS 1000hp axles, DSS aluminum driveshaft, ZL1 rear end, solid subframe bushings, HE differential offset bushings, BMR Trailing arm, BMR toe rods, Lingenfelter LNC-2000,SJM Line Lock. 747 whp 714wtq *Build thread* http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...55#post8107855

03-04-2016, 11:32 AM	#8
Unreal Drives: 2006 Z06 Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Gilbert, AZ Posts: 5,712	As soon as you tune a car, the weak/strong maf thing is not even an issue. Check for boost leaks, vacuum leaks. Those are going to be the most common idle issues. If not could be in the tune. Who tuned it? They should be able to fix and determine why there is any idle issues. __________________ Nick Corvette Z06 -1200ish rwhp

03-03-2016, 07:54 PM	#3
tdsikk Drives: 2SSRS Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: South Dakota Posts: 64 View My Garage	I'm not really sure but I think an MAF tune....

03-04-2016, 01:03 PM	#10
fif_gen_powa Drives: 2013 Camaro SS Turbo Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: South Florida Posts: 1,525	I would never have a FI motor without a afr gauge Should be the first thing you do __________________ 388ci 91/104 Turbo TH400 8.3@164 https://instagram.com/turbo_ls3/

03-04-2016, 01:28 PM	#11
tdsikk Drives: 2SSRS Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: South Dakota Posts: 64 View My Garage	Thanks guys! I'm learning as I go here... I'll start looking at AFR gauges...

03-04-2016, 03:37 PM	#12
Unreal Drives: 2006 Z06 Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Gilbert, AZ Posts: 5,712	Agreed. Don't worry about weak/strong mafs at all. It isn't even remotely an issue. __________________ Nick Corvette Z06 -1200ish rwhp

03-05-2016, 08:28 AM	#13
tdsikk Drives: 2SSRS Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: South Dakota Posts: 64 View My Garage	I've been reading some other threads and it looks like at a minimum I need an AFR and boost gauge. Are these mainly used to help with tuning or are there things inherent with a FI motor that may change and damage the motor without monitoring? Sorry for the basic question but this is my first FI car and I'm trying to explain to my wife why I need to spend more $$ on my car.......

03-05-2016, 09:03 AM	#14
cc-rider Drives: 2010 Camaro SS Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: MN Posts: 1,172	Do you have a wideband sensor in your exhaust? It may not be as simple as just getting an AFR Gauge. It needs a wideband to read from. A boost gauge can be plumbed in fairly easily. Or, you could get a ZR1 3 bar map sensor ($40) and modify 2 parameters in your tune (your tuner should do this for free for you...it's literally typing numbers in 2 boxes and that's it) and then you can read boost either with a gauge or electronically. Here's an option for you that I used that's pretty slick: - Get a PLX gen 4 wideband ($150 + installation) - Get a ZR1 map sensor ($40) - Get a PLX kiwi 2 device ($85) - Get the PLX kiwi iMFR adapter ($50) - Download the DashCommand app on your phone or iPad or whatever ($10 I think) With all that, you can monitor and even datalog boost and afr right on your phone. It's really slick and works great. You can log a ton more data from the ECU as well with this set up. But I use it for ongoing boost and afr. I'm willing to help you with this if you want...