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Old 09-06-2018, 08:23 PM   #43
You Aint Slick
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Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Ottawa, ON
Posts: 78
Originally Posted by qcman View Post
Nice going that has to be a relief. I would suggest a driver mod before the Cam lol. Thx for pointing these guys out I didn't think we had squat in Ottawa for high performance shops it would be nice to know I could get some work on my car at some point to maybe go a little faster or whatever.

Mind you I have no idea what I would do.... Hmm maybe headers and hi flos.... Hmmmmmm
Haha, The driver mod is already in place, I've done a few more strip days and all has been good, I've just learned to keep it cool, Been running constant 12.8s on the 1/4.

Facebook Getty Automotive, check out his shop, it's ridiculously clean and he really knows his shit.

Cam, Heads, Headers are what I'm looking for.
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Old 09-06-2018, 09:37 PM   #44
old school chevy rodder
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Drives: 2013 2SS/RS Manual,DM exhaust,CRT
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Oregon
Posts: 5,158
Actually a money shift can come up months later...broke a set of springs that way..first spring was a little tapping noise and wondered...months after the shift.....should have taken the valve covers off to look, but yes I did ride out a pass on the freeway screaming from a miss to the three gate repeatedly wanting to hit it but always not getting there as the stock shifter hated to hit third....POS

Hit first though with a econo turn on my front bumper after I drove for miles and miles taking it easy; with the bastard slowing the slow lane and whole hog line of cars passing by I finally get in the hog line and dick cuts me off..( maybe he thought the van behind him suddenly developed nitrous when I went to pass ); I brake and try to downshift engine brake and ...third no go hit gate..third….arg first...ride it out on his bumper and...…... van on side of me backs off and I shoot a gap swearing all the way with the wife passing a turn on to the right slow lane with a mile wide open in front in the slow lane.....damn road hogs.

Only thing about as bad is a tail gater….they are a waste of flesh. Stock shifter clunky is on a storage shed floor; paper weight went MGW and new engine..... took several months with how strong the motor was built for the one spring set to break one.... then after driving to check the exhaust for leaks ..tink…..and that's all she wrote; about 100 feet from my house on the turn; apon tear down many of the pushrods had a slight bend....never a wimper right to the end...…and that's with .675 springs on .623/.639 cam. Did some stumbling toward the end....made it about ten miles with the ticking to the tire store and back to look over the exhaust and crap wish I had not...… sounded like a good old chevy developing a header gasket or collector paper gasket tear......

I wish I had looked things over better checked the pushrods after the over rev and just swapped out springs by a overrev severely limits the life of the springs if done …… Hard lesson to learn; prayed ..but Hardluck..that's my Infantry name...And I hoped to make it longer but a few months was that..... 80 in first...… Don't believe in missing shifts now with a positive locking in feel of my shifter now not a stupid leaning stick that likes to hit the gate not sit in the three four slot like it belongs. Damn thing missed third for the last time. rarely happened but it only took once ….should have just braked......hard to want to brake with a beast though wanting pass a turd.....5-1 shift ...ouch. Just so you know. And don't have a pair of springs on each valve...single beehive but hey......stock ls engines make ticking, without a heat shield engine cover more noise, with headers lots more noise, with a tighter lash than stock .045-.060 area more noise....just so you know, my new engine is noisier than the first ….most likely Wong must have went more for the .070 area as the stock lifters can take that much and limit more valve float for high we share the ls7 lifter which has that preload with 1.8 rockers. ;;;

too much preload though and our engines are so strong they would and have run like normal just a little noisier….til crap happens , and heard of that years ago from guys way over doing the lash...when looser is less noisy even.....people don't do the math of the thread pitch meaning such a amount of movement of the rocker times 1.7 as its multiplied by the say you have a thread that one turn is if I am right .048 thread pitch meaning you move the pushrod down in preload after zero lash is reached by turning it less than a one turn is.... .048x1.7= .081... too much even for the ls7; so say morer than one guy thought he had to do ( which I read about here more than a few times); 1 1/4 turns ...that's .1 area of preload most likely bottoming out the plunger in the roller lifter which....can trash the lifter, wipe the lobes, cause other bent pushrods or hurt trunnions...or make people think the trashed cam was defective ,( even through most did not even do a brake in with a good oil as that was supposed to be OK....and is not..see driven racing br30 oil, tech articles and bulletins); and then there's those who ran thick oil starving the top end with a oiling system made for 5w30; or drug the roller from the pressure; with too much pressure it does not roll but can drag and wipe the roller and the cam lobe....and there were pictures and threads scaring others....and those using mostly a imperfect DIY which the guy who is not on here any more Robert Way showed how to install a cam with pics I am sure still used on here …..and us old timers of which I am like it.....well I remember he had real trouble figuring his preload and pushrod length... and that was after he made the DIY BTW...…...and tried to help in the subsequent threads.

So remember what I say; when is .048 not .048...when it has a 1.7 ratio rocker that's a FULCRUM..and even one turn is too much going beyond what many did not know even the stock area .045 to .060 area stock preload for the LS3 which was wondered about for along time on here also...… many who did installs insisted the sweet spots around .045 preload for optimal sound of the engine.....( though not so great for high revving valve float but hey who wants to loose the limiter to go stupid high shifts when most cams make the most power 6 grand and down especially for torque) and was discovered by many on tear downs to do cams.... just some old rambling from a old guy who used to rebuild al his own engines for decades and built them....

So that's a bunch of bad bedtime story...…….. NI NI LOL Murr.

A glorious pass it was, but it was supposed to be in third......and yes I should not have rode it out but SOB it was scary.....when the wife just swears for minutes repeatedly...…to match my swearing.... was nightmare I wanted to forget that eventually only got worse..... maybe someone will read and it may make them think......and help someone some time; Its common knowledge that our springs get weaker with our aftermarkets cams lifts and should be replaced eventually and to be safe my tuner recommends 25k life for springs. Had about 5k on that engine build, have about 15 on my current new build. and the higher the lifts the stiffer the spring the more brittle they are usually in the metallurgy ...and thus dragsters changing out springs like a parade float full of candy throwers to children.....
2013 2SS/RS LS3 M6 ,CRT, NPP, Forged 428 ls3 stroker, GMPP ported heads, Katech chain, Mast windage, Cam Motion Cam, trunnion upgrade, Stainless Power headers HFC, CAI w/kit, Vmax PTD, Fluidampr25% udp, LPW diff cover, BMR strut brace,trailing arms, toes, bushings, Rocket racing wheels,Toyo Proxes 4+, elite catch can, clutch reservoir, dash/body LED, DRL rewire, Sparks billet badges, Forza 3way, tint, MRT louvers, ZL1 spoiler, MGW short throw, Monster dual LT1S clutch, bleeder, support, high vol pump, Speed hut shift light, ACC flames stripes, Driven ls30 oil, NGK TR6IX , Granatelli wires.

Last edited by christianchevell; 09-06-2018 at 09:50 PM.
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