1st upgrade for road course?

[Silverado60]

I have a 2010 Ls3. Mostly stock suspension. Only upgrade is bmr 1.25 drop springs. I’m going to head to the road course for the second time next month.
What upgrade will give me the best result.
Cradle bushings? Sway bar? Toe rod?
Would love to do it all but can’t afford that....
Just put on a new set of nitto. Nt05

Sorry for the double post

[Silver14]

Good track brake pads and fresh brake fluid?

[Silverado60]

Originally Posted by Silver14

Good track brake pads and fresh brake fluid?

Any recommendations?
All stock at the moment. It has been suggested to upgrade to ctsv calipers

[BMR Sales]

Get your Brakes sorted, then Cradle Bushings, Trailing Arms & Toe Rods

[Jeff9962]

The best modification you can do is to work on your driving and then modify the car once you've started to discover the limitations of the car. With the BMR springs and the age of the car you're probably going to need shocks & struts first. I'm running the 1LE shocks & struts with those exact springs but I believe the Bilstein B6's or better yet the Koni yellows would be a better choice but you can't find fronts right now.

Always flush the brake fluid with Motul 600 or equivalent before each event. That is an absolute must, these cars are heavy! The stock Bilstein front pads work with where you are right now but eventually you'll want to go to something more aggressive and less prone to fade. Hawk HP Plus pads aren't bad as dual purpose pads go but they do dust like crazy on the street. I'm still on the stock 4 piston Brembo's but I run a HAWK DTC70 dedicated track pad for the events. I need to upgrade to the 6 piston CTSV calipers and 2 piece rotors when the funds allow it. I run Time Trials and after about 3-4 full tilt laps at Sebring in the Florida heat they will start to taper off.

[Silverado60]

Originally Posted by Jeff9962

The best modification you can do is to work on your driving and then modify the car once you've started to discover the limitations of the car. With the BMR springs and the age of the car you're probably going to need shocks & struts first. I'm running the 1LE shocks & struts with those exact springs but I believe the Bilstein B6's or better yet the Koni yellows would be a better choice but you can't find fronts right now.

Always flush the brake fluid with Motul 600 or equivalent before each event. That is an absolute must, these cars are heavy! The stock Bilstein front pads work with where you are right now but eventually you'll want to go to something more aggressive and less prone to fade. Hawk HP Plus pads aren't bad as dual purpose pads go but they do dust like crazy on the street. I'm still on the stock 4 piston Brembo's but I run a HAWK DTC70 dedicated track pad for the events. I need to upgrade to the 6 piston CTSV calipers and 2 piece rotors when the funds allow it. I run Time Trials and after about 3-4 full tilt laps at Sebring in the Florida heat they will start to taper off.

Seems the dot 5.1 fluid would be better. Is there a reason everyone uses dot 4?

[Silverado60]

Originally Posted by BMR Sales

Get your Brakes sorted, then Cradle Bushings, Trailing Arms & Toe Rods

Does BMR offer solid cradle bushings?
What trailing arm and toe rod setup would you recommend for a weekend car with occasional track days?
Adjustable, none adjustable, poly, bearing......

[Jeff9962]

Originally Posted by Silverado60

Seems the dot 5.1 fluid would be better. Is there a reason everyone uses dot 4?

I use the Motul 600 because it exceeds the 5.1 specs both in the dry boiling point and wet boiling point. Motul makes a 660 fluid which even takes it a step further if needed. The 600 has been fine for me so far. Boiling the fluid sucks, I've managed to do it numerous times on my 4th gen Trans Am and it's a pucker moment for sure when that pedal goes to the floor.

Besides making sure that the car is safe the next most important thing is your driving. I'm an instructor for NASA and there is no better modification than getting some in car instruction. Worry about the mods later.

[Silverado60]

Originally Posted by Jeff9962

The best modification you can do is to work on your driving and then modify the car once you've started to discover the limitations of the car. With the BMR springs and the age of the car you're probably going to need shocks & struts first. I'm running the 1LE shocks & struts with those exact springs but I believe the Bilstein B6's or better yet the Koni yellows would be a better choice but you can't find fronts right now.

Always flush the brake fluid with Motul 600 or equivalent before each event. That is an absolute must, these cars are heavy! The stock Bilstein front pads work with where you are right now but eventually you'll want to go to something more aggressive and less prone to fade. Hawk HP Plus pads aren't bad as dual purpose pads go but they do dust like crazy on the street. I'm still on the stock 4 piston Brembo's but I run a HAWK DTC70 dedicated track pad for the events. I need to upgrade to the 6 piston CTSV calipers and 2 piece rotors when the funds allow it. I run Time Trials and after about 3-4 full tilt laps at Sebring in the Florida heat they will start to taper off.

I agree I have way more car than I need but This thing just seems to have a ton of body roll and I’m thinking improving the car will help me get around a little easier.....
I ordered 3 bottles of Motul 600. Hopefully that is enough to flush it

[Jeff9962]

Originally Posted by Silverado60

I agree I have way more car than I need but This thing just seems to have a ton of body roll and I’m thinking improving the car will help me get around a little easier.....
I ordered 3 bottles of Motul 600. Hopefully that is enough to flush it

You should only need two bottles to flush it but it's always good to have more than you need. Keep it sealed and use it later.

[Norm Peterson]

Originally Posted by Silverado60

I agree I have way more car than I need but This thing just seems to have a ton of body roll and I’m thinking improving the car will help me get around a little easier.....

Chances are you're noticing "a ton of body roll" because you've only started to drive the car hard enough to get much. Your typical daily driving is enough gentler that what you're noticing is the difference. Not the absolute amount specifically.

For a 2010, you probably need to replace the shocks & struts if that hasn't been done fairly recently, and there's better choices for your BMR springs than over-the-counter SS OE/OE direct replacement.


But if the car takes a set and doesn't 'bobble' (where you get extra body motions), the best thing I think you could do is get used to having a bit more roll when you're on the track.


Norm