Turboing my LFX

[Vaddy]

Hey guys, so last week I decided to tackle the challenge to turbo my LFX with an actual existing kit out there already for the SS model. So far it has been successful and close to finishing it. I wanted to put this thread out there to help people looking to turbo their LFX considering there isn't a lot of information out there and not only that but to not have to rely on a company to make one for these engines. Whole reason I did this was the price tag on the procharger was pretty darn high, almost 7k for just stage 1 but also the sound of turbos are always unmatched IMO, and I wanted a turbo that I could see and not have it to be under the car or the rear, some shops are doing it that way here in Florida, and its also like 10k this build would be more than half the price. I will update the thread as I finish this project:

I will be mainly addressing the issues I encounter rather than how to install the kit, everything is pretty straightforward when installing turbo kits. Anyways, I got this 5th gen SS single turbo kit from Huron Speed, they have told me to keep them updated about this project so maybe they will make one in the future who knows.

The first thing I did was put the intercooler on and everything fits but the cold side piping leading up to the intake there was an overflow tank you had to remove but the tank that comes with the kit doesn't fit, so I got an Auto parts universal overflow tank and mounted it in front of the car. Also one thing to mention, you might need the extendolator from jacfab, I am almost certain that the intake is too low for the pipe to fit into the intake, with it, it already hits the radiator, and you would also need a maf extender.



Another issue I encountered was obviously the headers or downpipes if you will, this is pretty simple to figure out, go to your local muffler shop to either weld or cut but more on that later. The first VERY BIG issue was that the A/C lines and the oil filter housing would block the hot side part of the piping not only that but because it can't move more towards the engine the alternator is blocking the other side



Thankfully, you can bend the A/C lines without having to remove them and leaving you with an expensive repair bill to have A/C. But then that leaves the oil filter housing, what can we do about that? Well let's all be thankful for Miata owners swapping these engines into their cars. One company has made an oil passage block to have it much closer to the engine and have clearance for Miatas I assume. Now you need to remove the power steering pump and slide the AC compressor, to reach the bolt. This car has almost 80k miles and the power steering pulley wouldn't come out, it needs to come out because there's a bolt behind there. So I used a grip jaw puller to bend the pulley enough to get the bolt out (this took 2 days of figuring out)





Now everything should be able to fit well, since I couldn't get the pulley to come out, I have ordered a new pump and will have to check clearance on that but I should be good.



I ordered a 90 degree elbow to use as reference for the muffler shop to be able use to get the downpipes to align, I originally ordered it to be welded but it might be too big. Also the headers that come with the kit, DONT THROW THAT AWAY, the shop will have to cut the flange on the ends to then weld on to your new "headers", remove enough of the metal wrapping for the shop to cut off. Be careful as it is metal and could stap you. Then the extra 3in that you need (make sure you measure) you can cut from the downpipes you have if you got catless or get some piping from autozone. It is important that you do the driver side first and have your focus on that, for the passenger side you would probably have to be under the car.



This is so far how far I got, still have information that I would like to share, thanks to EliteEngineering for helping me on my vacuum lines and PCV concerns, you will be able to use the valve on top of the intake manifold to use as a vacuum source rather than the brake booster. But going turbo you need a proper catch can system, so they have a dual valve system for this exact thing. Ill explain more once I get it and they explain how to install. As for the oil feed, the oil passage has a hole already threaded to put your oil feed line, how lucky!

Turbo Kit: https://huronspeed.com/product/cam5t4/
Overflow Tank: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...3-001/17191312
Oil Passage Block: https://www.keislerautomation.com/un...-passage-block
90 Degree Elbow: https://www.aceraceparts.com/products/s90-j1wn
MAF Sensor Extender: https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pr...oducts_id/3432

[The_bald_eagle_machine]

Looking forward to seeing this build as it progresses.

[Vaddy]

Originally Posted by The_bald_eagle_machine

Looking forward to seeing this build as it progresses.

Thanks 👍

[Tajefe Couple]

[Vaddy]

Fabricating the "headers" is probably the most difficult thing I've had to do so far. First off, get a 2 1/4in pipe from autozone, the specific one I got was a 2 1/4in x 18 resonator pipe. Instead of using a curved pipe, I just made a 90 degree from a straight pipe, it might not be efficient but I just want to be able to be done with this project. I highly HIGHLY recommend having a reciprocating saw with a vice, this makes things way easier and more convenient as you probably won't have your Camaro with you. Also make sure to get a permanent marker to mark things for your welder, I did the mistake of getting a dry erase one and it just disappeared. Mark the entire pipe, even with the permanent marker it can disappear. When cutting the flanges make sure you leave as much of the pipe as you can, if the welder doesnt know what hes doing the welds can get in the way of the flange hooking up to the clamp, thats why a 2 1/4in is the best any more than that and it wont lay on top. This took about a week of trial and error, the passenger side is even harder as you need to be under the car most likely. I can also confirm the power steering pump doesn't effect clearance.






Also DO NOT PUT ON YOUR POWER STEERING PUMP, you would need to hook up the oil feed line, otherwise, I assume it is very hard to do it with it on already. As for the oil drain, I have been doing my research and I believe you will be able to drill in front of the oil pan, no risk of hitting the oil pickup, which is still hard to do but anyways I will test this theory tomorrow.




Heres a look of how the vacuum lines will be setup, also also, for the dual valve catch can, you will need a spacer like what overkill had for the 80mm TB but obviously overkill has been quiet. Thankfully, theres a wonderful company called Soler Performance that has the spacer you need and the TB. I don't think you need the TB, as the spacer lines up but I am not sure. I am still ordering the TB for the extra gains. Reason you need the spacer is because we need to drill a hole and tap for the catch can, it needs one from before or from the spacer, then one in front of the turbo, you either drill a hole again or you use a coupler to have your hole. Then the last valve on the catchcan I think goes to the crackcase, not entirely sure.



Spacer: https://www.solerengineering.com/gen...s/se7792-80-72
TB: https://www.solerengineering.com/gen...tors/se7792-84
Vacuum Lines: https://huronspeed.com/product/huron...reference-kit/

[Vaddy]

Update: I didn't realized but you should put the exhuast on the turbo first when first installing a turbo kit, so the headers that I made would most likely have to go to the garbage but that means the worries of the exhuast not fitting will go away. First thing I've discovered since learning about this is that the A/C lines have to go sadly, on the V8 the AC unit is where the alternator would be on the V6 so the AC lines are done another way. All I would need is a special tool to remove all the moisture from the lines to safely remove that, more on that later. I am now trying to do the oil drain while I wait for my next paycheck lol. There's not alot of space there to drill a hole and I was considering removing the oil pan until I found out you need to actually lift the engine a inch or two to remove it because the crossmember blocks it. So I will be using a punch tool and a hammer to get it done, the location of where I am doing it is on the passenger side. I'm ordering a 90 degree fitting for the drain before I do that.



4 days later - I have drilled the hole, after some research you can't use a punch on a aluminum pan I believe it would crack. So the only drill that would fit to be able to drill is a 1/4 impact with a step bit that goes all the way to 3/4. I drilled up to 11/16 using alot of grease to make sure the metal shavings in the pan is to a minimum. The 23/32 tap was used to thread, I used a 17mm socket to drive it. Even after using a ton of grease, you will still have metal shavings, so I bought like 3 mineral spirits to flush it out, until I didn't see anymore metal shavings, used all 3 bottles.

[Vaddy]

Finally after getting the vacuum pump for the AC lines, it seemed like I didn't even need to get rid of the moisture or maybe there wasn't enough of it because it took a 1 min to go to a vacuum (-29psi), that is probably because the car has been sitting for a month so I would do this just in case. ACTUALLY, I highly recommend someone professional to discharge the system before you start the project. I didn't know that the gasses from the lines are harmful to the atmosphere so I couldn't do it before. But after removing the AC lines, you can now put the turbo exhuast. But wait it looks like our newly attached oil filter is blocking the exhuast.



I thought I was screwed here but luckily in the same hour I found out PF63 which is the oil filter the company that made the oil passage recommends, is a longer version of PF48, thankfully this was a perfect size




Now everything fits exactly how it would, if I would have known about all this information from start to finish, I would be able to knock this out in a day. Good thing you have me. Just make sure to position everything correctly before fabricating the headers. Also some things to mention, the bracket that's on the powersteering pump, remove that, there needs to be enough space, also you would most likely need to get a 90 degree -4an fitting depending on how much you cut it.

[joshnmn]

Are you doing anything for fueling?

[Vaddy]

Originally Posted by joshnmn

Are you doing anything for fueling?

As of right now no, I want to add in the zl1 pump or a secondary fuel system for more power when it comes to it when I've done all of the maintenance, especially the timing chain. Going to be drag racing this thing, I want to try to hit 9s

[bill522]

Originally Posted by Vaddy

As of right now no, I want to add in the zl1 pump or a secondary fuel system for more power when it comes to it when I've done all of the maintenance, especially the timing chain. Going to be drag racing this thing, I want to try to hit 9s

Fueling Suggestions:
Get the E-85 conversion , you won't regret it.
Check with Fore Innovations they have some really high quality dual fuel pumps, save you from buying another fuel pump set up when you realize that the ZL1 fuel pump won't get you to your goals
May also want to upgrade the HPFP, to an LF4 HPFP and then get the HPFP upgrade from Autotech.

[Vaddy]

Originally Posted by bill522

Fueling Suggestions:
Get the E-85 conversion , you won't regret it.
Check with Fore Innovations they have some really high quality dual fuel pumps, save you from buying another fuel pump set up when you realize that the ZL1 fuel pump won't get you to your goals
May also want to upgrade the HPFP, to an LF4 HPFP and then get the HPFP upgrade from Autotech.

Appreciate it, I've already got E-85 so I'm super interested for the dyno, and noted ✅️ ill put it down for the lists of things to upgrade. I definitely want to take the V6 to new levels, whether that means spending a shit load of money 😂

[bill522]

Originally Posted by Vaddy

Appreciate it, I've already got E-85 so I'm super interested for the dyno, and noted ✅️ ill put it down for the lists of things to upgrade. I definitely want to take the V6 to new levels, whether that means spending a shit load of money ��

mknowles@diamondracing.net / or rcurtis@diamondracing.net should be able to help you on forged pistons with a lower compression.
Sales Quote 150460 (04/04/2017)

[Vaddy]

Originally Posted by bill522

mknowles@diamondracing.net / or rcurtis@diamondracing.net should be able to help you on forged pistons with a lower compression.
Sales Quote 150460 (04/04/2017)

Got it, looking to do that this year. Thanks

[Vaddy]

Big change of plans! Some good news or bad news idk yet. But having to fabricate the headers was such a headache, if there was only a way to make adjustments on the fly and then being able to have a copy of the perfect metal piece. But wait I'm a 3D artist, I don't know why I didn't utilize my skills but I did some quick 3D scanning of both of the headers locations, and i have created the perfect headers and its on its way being 3d metal printed, yes metal. it is being printed in Aluminum AlSi10Mg, not stainless steel which is what you want for being turbocharged but that will come later once I get someone who can copy it. Now the reason I said idk if its good or bad news is because it was extremely cheap but its a company in China, the normal price was around 2k for each, the chinese company quoted 300... Its coming early February, I'll share the STL file once I verify everything fits. Glad went this route, there was no way I was gonna be able to fabricate the passenger side with the alternator cables blocking alot of the area, even if I get scammed by this Chinese company, I will still be able to 3D print it in plastic and have someone custom weld something up.

(Passenger Side)




(Drivers Side)




I will also be making some other things and 3D printing them and share the STL file which can benefit both the V6 and V8 versions. First thing I was thinking of is a headlight duct, basically what some supras have, working on that as we speak. Anything that you guys can think of, I'm up for creating it (Stuff that can be plastic at least for now)