ZL1 Clutch Issue - Is the dealer lying

[pmaxcslt]

I bought a Certified 2015 ZL1 3 months ago. When I received the car it needed a new rear differential. 3000 miles later the dealer is now telling me that it needs a new clutch assembly and it will not be covered by the certified warranty. I DO NOT drive this vehicle hard! 98% of the time I drive 1st - 3rd - 5th.

What it is doing is, when you press the gas no matter what gear you are in the rpm rise 500 - 700 and then the car starts speeding up. It feels as if the clutch is slipping, but after the the little RPM blip it pulls very hard with no further slippage. It is almost unnoticeable in 1st gear, but very noticeable in all other gears especially when hitting the gas around 1200-1500 rpm

I read several places that the ZL1 Clutch isn't known to fail at low mileage but the slave cylinder has been known to fail. Could this by my real issue?

The dealer is saying that they have determined the clutch pressure plate, throwout, pilot bearing are needing to be replaced. I asked if they have removed the transmission and was told NO, they hooked it to the computer and road tested it to determine clutch failure.

Does this sound right or am i getting the run around.

[0-120]

Clutch slippage sounds like a failure to me. I wouldn’t trust a dealership. Find a performance shop or transmission place that can give you a more trustworthy opinion. Sounds like it is still very drivable so good luck!

Youve already been screwed by them for not covering that repair

[ZMEnow]

Originally Posted by pmaxcslt

I bought a Certified 2015 ZL1 3 months ago. When I received the car it needed a new rear differential. 3000 miles later the dealer is now telling me that it needs a new clutch assembly and it will not be covered by the certified warranty. I DO NOT drive this vehicle hard! 98% of the time I drive 1st - 3rd - 5th.

What it is doing is, when you press the gas no matter what gear you are in the rpm rise 500 - 700 and then the car starts speeding up. It feels as if the clutch is slipping, but after the the little RPM blip it pulls very hard with no further slippage. It is almost unnoticeable in 1st gear, but very noticeable in all other gears especially when hitting the gas around 1200-1500 rpm

I read several places that the ZL1 Clutch isn't known to fail at low mileage but the slave cylinder has been known to fail. Could this by my real issue?

The dealer is saying that they have determined the clutch pressure plate, throwout, pilot bearing are needing to be replaced. I asked if they have removed the transmission and was told NO, they hooked it to the computer and road tested it to determine clutch failure.

Does this sound right or am i getting the run around.

You can test yourself, put it in 4th at around 30mph go to WOT see if the RPM'S blip as you called it, then repeat with adding brake at WOT at 30mph.


It is being described as a clutch slipping.. Mileage has nothing to do with Clutches, you can thank your previous owner. I burned mine at the strip at only 8000 miles. You never said how many miles are on the car, but the dealer would never change a clutch without throwout bearing, and there is no computer that would tell you if the throwout bearing is bad, it's a bearing!! It would vibrate pretty good and be very noisy.


It could be oil on the flywheel but you would never know without taking it apart and then you would have to be concerned where the oil is coming from which most common is the rear main seal.


I got my Flywheel, Pressure Plate/Clutch, throwout bearing, Slave cylinder from GMPARTS NOw for about $1100. It took me about 3 days with a couple hours each night because I cleaned everything well (Black clutch Soot everywhere) added a Monster Billet release bearing to the Slave and a MUST Have one man speed bleeder cable.

[Blownfogger540]

did you get a price to do the job from the dealer with oem parts ?
dont let anyone put aftermarket oem replacement crap in it

i have a new oem clutch for sale soon way cheaper than the stealer
if you need

[silversleeper]

ZME had a complete answer and diagnostic for you. I'd like to try to explain more what he said and the dealer.
They might have done something with a computer that helps in diagnostics but as ZME said I don't know if there is a "code" per se that says bad clutch. You could graph speed vs rpm and see a jump if the clutch slips, using a computer logger. Using a higher gear and low mph as he said is the old school way to easily hear and watch your tach jump as the clutch slips with heavy throttle.
The throwout bearing and pilot bearings are worn if it is high mileage enough to need a new clutch. Labor is the big cost so they include those instead of tearing it all down again before it wears out a second clutch.
If yours is due to abuse or improper slipping as it might be, the pilot bearing and throwout bearing might be able to be re-used if you were skimping and DIY.
I don't know if these assemblies are like the old ones I worked on. Those you could resurface the flywheel like brake rotors or if really skimping leave it with slight grooves and just add a new clutch disk only. That's like putting new pads on disc brakes without new rotors or machining them smooth. It works, done it myself but don't expect your mechanic wanting to have his reputation questioned and you coming back complaining because he skimped on parts that you suggested he do.
As BF540 said I've had mixed results with aftermarket. Sometimes the plate warped and chattered, crappy springs, noise, short life. If I did get aftermarket only a known name brand. I'd prefer like he said OEM known quality since you aren't trying to get a different racing type item.

[ZMEnow]

Originally Posted by silversleeper

ZME had a complete answer and diagnostic for you. I'd like to try to explain more what he said and the dealer.
They might have done something with a computer that helps in diagnostics but as ZME said I don't know if there is a "code" per se that says bad clutch. You could graph speed vs rpm and see a jump if the clutch slips, using a computer logger. Using a higher gear and low mph as he said is the old school way to easily hear and watch your tach jump as the clutch slips with heavy throttle.
The throwout bearing and pilot bearings are worn if it is high mileage enough to need a new clutch. Labor is the big cost so they include those instead of tearing it all down again before it wears out a second clutch.
If yours is due to abuse or improper slipping as it might be, the pilot bearing and throwout bearing might be able to be re-used if you were skimping and DIY.
I don't know if these assemblies are like the old ones I worked on. Those you could resurface the flywheel like brake rotors or if really skimping leave it with slight grooves and just add a new clutch disk only. That's like putting new pads on disc brakes without new rotors or machining them smooth. It works, done it myself but don't expect your mechanic wanting to have his reputation questioned and you coming back complaining because he skimped on parts that you suggested he do.
As BF540 said I've had mixed results with aftermarket. Sometimes the plate warped and chattered, crappy springs, noise, short life. If I did get aftermarket only a known name brand. I'd prefer like he said OEM known quality since you aren't trying to get a different racing type item.

Flywheel is dual mass and not recommended to resurface although some on the forum have done it with success. My time is money so when I did it, everything was new and OEM.

[pmaxcslt]

Originally Posted by ZMEnow

You can test yourself, put it in 4th at around 30mph go to WOT see if the RPM'S blip as you called it, then repeat with adding brake at WOT at 30mph.

I will try that on Monday when I get it back

Originally Posted by ZMEnow

It is being described as a clutch slipping.. Mileage has nothing to do with Clutches, you can thank your previous owner. I burned mine at the strip at only 8000 miles. You never said how many miles are on the car, but the dealer would never change a clutch without throwout bearing, and there is no computer that would tell you if the throwout bearing is bad, it's a bearing!! It would vibrate pretty good and be very noisy.

Bought the car with 35500 miles and it just ticked 41000. Transmission had a little bearing noise but no vibration. When I first got it. I had to immediately get the differential fixed and I also complained that the 2nd gear on the car was not a smooth shift. The dealer said that the differential was contributing to the rough shift. When I say rough it isn't grinding or anything it just doesn't drop into gear as easily as the other gears.

Originally Posted by ZMEnow

It could be oil on the flywheel but you would never know without taking it apart and then you would have to be concerned where the oil is coming from which most common is the rear main seal.

The dealer wants 950 for clutch installation labor. Do you think they would tell me that it was just some oil on the flywheel. Just kidding

Originally Posted by ZMEnow

I got my Flywheel, Pressure Plate/Clutch, throwout bearing, Slave cylinder from GMPARTS NOw for about $1100. It took me about 3 days with a couple hours each night because I cleaned everything well (Black clutch Soot everywhere) added a Monster Billet release bearing to the Slave and a MUST Have one man speed bleeder cable.

So you went back with the gm clutch and not a performance clutch? I would like to do a performance clutch but I am afraid of what that will do to the warranty. I am afraid of what will happen to the warranty if I do the clutch.

[pmaxcslt]

Originally Posted by Blownfogger540

did you get a price to do the job from the dealer with oem parts ?
dont let anyone put aftermarket oem replacement crap in it

i have a new oem clutch for sale soon way cheaper than the stealer
if you need

I did it's crazy... I may be interested in getting the clutch from you. As far as clutches go I am pretty sure I will have to do a gm direct replacement or something like a centerline. That will probably be my next post.

[RobZL1]

I like my Monster lt1-s triple disk. It uses OEM C7 disk material, and it feels like stock. I only paid 350 in labor when I bought from a reputable performance shop who did the install for me. I think I had about 1600 total into the triple and the install (monster had a nice sale going at the time).

Of course, if you're not looking for more power, it might not be worth the extra coin.

[pmaxcslt]

Well I dropped of the car at my transmission guy this morning with a brand new factory setup. I will know more on Wednesday when the transmission is out. I will be looking for problems with the rear main seal and the slave cylinder is there anything else I should keep an eye out for?

[lbls1]

First, call Chevy customer service and find out for sure. If the clutch isn't covered under warranty then you have time to sit on it awhile. You could see if the problem gets worse, and you can also have other dealers or a very good mechanic look at the car. Since you may be paying, you should get the right advice and the best service. I might understand 40-50k miles of hard driving, but anything under 10k is suspect.

[derieu]

Set up a case with Chevy customer care using live chat: https://www.chevrolet.com/contact/chat

I had the same thing happen with my CPO 14 SS 1LE. My case was very frustrating and wonky, my diff blew up a day after I purchased the car, a ton of clutch issues, etc. Finally got 1 dealership to rip it apart and they determined that the pressure plate was cracked/warped from hard driving (I did not drive the car hard). They looked into it further, and they ended up checking the service records for when the CPO inspection occurred vs the delivery of my car. I took delivery 1000 miles after it was certified, meaning that either during test drives or dealership driving (workers taking the car home), it was damaged in the process.

TLDR: Keep complaining to chevy, explain that you are very displeased with the stock, unmodified CPO vehicle. Check the mileage it was certified at vs when you took delivery. I ended up getting an extended powertrain warranty + a free clutch and diff out of it. Best of luck.

[pmaxcslt]

So I did file a case with chevrolet warranty services. I just asked for reimbursement on the parts that would be covered by warranty and they acted like they didn't understand. It is so frustrating., I kept saying to them SLAVE Cylinder and they kept saying SAVE cylinder. I wound up losing it and telling them to F off. What a scam.

[Winemedineme69me]

What was the issue after all?