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Old 08-25-2019, 11:37 AM   #15
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You’re right in ballpark that I was in with similar mods. I lost my Dyno sheet but ss4 cam, 4K stall, heads, e85, rodmod, etc I put down 479 at gpi. Every Dyno is different though...

You could upgrade to a new intake but really depends what you plan to do with the car. If I could do it again I’d just have left the ported rod mod intake on for regular street driving. I added a ported super Vic and picked up 25rwhp, move the powerband to right, but lost quite a bit or tq. I shift around 7500 at track so not to concerned but 99% of my driving isn’t at 7k rpm

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Old 08-25-2019, 12:02 PM   #16
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I wouldn't get hung up on dyno #s. If you want to pull on those cars you mention I'd get some lower gearing for that rear. If you do that would recommend some new bushings and suspension parts. Then you'll probably want some wheels and tires to help with your launch, and then, and then, and then! It can end up a never ending list. There are some really experienced knowledgeable people in here to take advice from including vendors. As with anything buyer beware though, especially of newly established shops trying to sell stuff. Doing the research and checking out some of the build threads here in the forum might help with the direction you want to take your build. Just my $.02! GL and most of all enjoy!
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Old 08-25-2019, 03:08 PM   #17
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471 is a great number. Only compare numbers with same dyno. Same day is even better depending on weather.
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Old 08-25-2019, 03:09 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roader View Post
You’re right in ballpark that I was in with similar mods. I lost my Dyno sheet but ss4 cam, 4K stall, heads, e85, rodmod, etc I put down 479 at gpi. Every Dyno is different though...

You could upgrade to a new intake but really depends what you plan to do with the car. If I could do it again I’d just have left the ported rod mod intake on for regular street driving. I added a ported super Vic and picked up 25rwhp, move the powerband to right, but lost quite a bit or tq. I shift around 7500 at track so not to concerned but 99% of my driving isn’t at 7k rpm
Any dyno sheets after the Super Vic, Roader? I figured you'd be in the 525rwhp neighborhood with heads and E85. Whats your CR? Any track data? Your setup has always had me curious
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Old 08-25-2019, 04:29 PM   #19
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I have never been to the track. Hopefully soon. Here’s a dumb question. What’s a Super Vic? Lol
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Old 08-25-2019, 04:38 PM   #20
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Any dyno sheets after the Super Vic, Roader? I figured you'd be in the 525rwhp neighborhood with heads and E85. Whats your CR? Any track data? Your setup has always had me curious
Between work and 2 kids I’ve had no time to get to track. Every time I get car ready I break something (waiting on coilovers part now). Come November hope to have plenty time.

If I was m6 I’d imagine I’d be closer to 525 but I’m not worried about that. If I need bigger numbers I have a 200 shot. My CR is 11.5, about a point higher than stock for L99
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Old 08-25-2019, 04:47 PM   #21
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I have never been to the track. Hopefully soon. Here’s a dumb question. What’s a Super Vic? Lol
Its an intake manifold made by Edelbrock..

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Between work and 2 kids I’ve had no time to get to track. Every time I get car ready I break something (waiting on coilovers part now). Come November hope to have plenty time.

If I was m6 I’d imagine I’d be closer to 525 but I’m not worried about that. If I need bigger numbers I have a 200 shot. My CR is 11.5, about a point higher than stock for L99
Nice. Hope you can get to the track soon!
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Old 08-25-2019, 05:00 PM   #22
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Once aspect of street racing is just knowing what gear to be in assuming you roll raced those cars, wrong gear and you are gonna loose. Looking at your back tires, im surprised you are not spinning those things, they dont look sticky.

Just cause you have some power does not mean you will win, you have to get it in the right rpm range and stick it down to the ground.
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Old 08-25-2019, 05:25 PM   #23
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We’re all going to have our own opinions depending what we have done with our cars and how we use them. End of the day you’ll have to figure out how you’ll drive your car with where to go from here or if you should even mod it further. I know mine was perfectly fine as a DD before I did last round of mods. I could still do it but it’d be tough.

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Its an intake manifold made by Edelbrock..



Nice. Hope you can get to the track soon!
Im Hoping too. It’s betting ridiculous way things keep breaking.

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Once aspect of street racing is just knowing what gear to be in assuming you roll raced those cars, wrong gear and you are gonna loose. Looking at your back tires, im surprised you are not spinning those things, they dont look sticky.

Just cause you have some power does not mean you will win, you have to get it in the right rpm range and stick it down to the ground.
This is a key aspect nobody has touched on. Suspension and tires go a long way. With full bmr rear suspension I’m still running a 17” drag radial on street

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Old 08-25-2019, 06:05 PM   #24
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I just got the bmr trailering arms. I want to put on when I get springs to lower. I don’t want coil overs. Any ideas on inches front and back
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Old 08-25-2019, 07:54 PM   #25
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I'm gonna say your numbers are a bit low.

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…...Whats your CR? Any track data?.....
With that cam, I would want at least 11:3.1 SCR. But it seems that you're runnin' stock compression. That is a problem.

Everyone wants a big cam and then wave their peckers over their peak HP numbers....but their torque (below 4500rpms) suck. I'd bet this is the case with your car. I'd REALLY like to see your torque curve.

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A mild cammed auto g8 yanked me......
I'm not surprised. Too much cam for stock compression.

Also....your heads....who do you know that've made power with these heads?

For reference, the H/C LS3 in my '95 Impala is putting just shy of 500HP to the wheels.....and torque is over 425lb/ft from about 3800rpms to 5400rpms. And my cam is quite a bit smaller than yours (229*/242*) with 11.2:1 compression.

If your car were my car....what I would do....is get a set of 12* aftermarket heads, mill them to about 64cc combustion chamber, install using .040" head gaskets and re-tune/re-dyno.

But that's just me.

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Old 08-25-2019, 08:15 PM   #26
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KW. Thanks a lot for the info. Very well spoken. I will call builder tomorrow and research
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Old 08-25-2019, 09:19 PM   #27
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I have .040 head gaskets and am at 11:1 CR.
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Old 08-26-2019, 05:10 AM   #28
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Static CR doesn't mean anything. Your effective or "Dynamic" CR only begins to start compression at . 004" or . 006" lift. Static CR is just compression if your valves were closed the whole travel of the piston, calculated with the chamber volume. Pistons are never exactly at bdc or tdc when the valves are opening or closing. This is why cam manufacturers give you a recommended compression ratio for their cams. They are doing the math for you to get your effective CR in a range best suited for the cam. You can tweak this a little if you know what fuel you want to run and do the math yourself.
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