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Old 01-22-2021, 08:24 AM   #15
1JEWLDSSRS


 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bo White View Post
Go to a Circle D 4000-4200
^^^^ this, as Bo says, and you won't get walked anymore!! Ask me how I know. lol.
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Old 01-28-2021, 02:06 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bo White View Post
Go to a Circle D 4000-4200
I do already have the correct one for my stage 3 cam, since I already have a stage 2 cam in. it'll just be at the top of the range when stage 3 is installed.

So what would be the difference if I went up to the 4000-4200? Asking to learn more.
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Old 01-28-2021, 02:10 PM   #17
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More hp immediately equals a faster car!
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Old 01-28-2021, 02:11 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LCPLPunk View Post
No need for ZL1 pump/injectors yet. Driveshaft isn't really worth the money, suspension, yep..I'd repeat what I've done save for having to swap to newer control arms as you already have them.
I was thinking the driveshaft was not worth it at this time cause, I don't really beat my car up or race it really.

I am not understanding what the last part of the statement is? What do I have already? stating for clarification.

What your opinion on something like this and then add bushings to it also?

https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=...144&superpro=0
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TSP Stage 2 L99VVT-2.2 Camshaft 227/239, .629/.629, 113 LSA, Circle D Converter 3000-3200 PRC 260cc, Cylinder Head (Ported for the camshaft)
TSP.660" Dual Spring Kit w/ PAC Dual Springs & Titanium Retainers, 2.165"/1.59" Stainless Valves w/ Hollow Stem Intake, Comp Phase Limiter, 7.5" Push Length Rod, New GM VVT Camshaft Bolts, D.O.D Delete Kit, Ported Intake Manifold, Kooks High Flow Catted-Long Tube Headers, Flowmaster Outlaw Cat-back Exhausts
Cold Air Inductions Cold Air Intake, 95MM Throttle Body
Tuned on 91 Octane Gas
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Old 01-28-2021, 02:20 PM   #19
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Well when I had my 3200 stall in there and it would flash up to 3600-3800 the car would bog a bit until she got to over 4000, then it would take off like a bandit around 4200 and scream all the way out to 7200 shift point. The 3200 had a dead spot around where it would flash to. Now with the 4000-4200 she flashes up to 4800-5000 and it is just above where my power band starts pulling hard then all the way out to redline at 7400, if I choose to go that far with it in manual mode. My cam makes power all the way to 7500 where we stopped at deciding we didn't need to pull it past there.
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Old 01-28-2021, 02:21 PM   #20
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Rear gears and a convertor - you won't believe the difference. Downside is you will be buying tires more often
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Old 01-28-2021, 02:29 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racesloth View Post
Rear gears and a convertor - you won't believe the difference. Downside is you will be buying tires more often
Definitely buying the 3.91 gear ratio
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TSP.660" Dual Spring Kit w/ PAC Dual Springs & Titanium Retainers, 2.165"/1.59" Stainless Valves w/ Hollow Stem Intake, Comp Phase Limiter, 7.5" Push Length Rod, New GM VVT Camshaft Bolts, D.O.D Delete Kit, Ported Intake Manifold, Kooks High Flow Catted-Long Tube Headers, Flowmaster Outlaw Cat-back Exhausts
Cold Air Inductions Cold Air Intake, 95MM Throttle Body
Tuned on 91 Octane Gas
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Old 01-28-2021, 02:29 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thr3zus View Post
I was thinking the driveshaft was not worth it at this time cause, I don't really beat my car up or race it really.

I am not understanding what the last part of the statement is? What do I have already? stating for clarification.

What your opinion on something like this and then add bushings to it also?

https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=...144&superpro=0
I replaced my DS a few months ago with a DSS 3.5 one piece and noticed a difference right away with it. The acceleration was even quicker than it was, was quick before with the 4200, but got even quicker with it. 11lbs less than the stock one made a big difference in how quick she would rev up!
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