[PinHead]

Originally Posted by TEX1LE

I haven't had my MMS camber plates on that long I've done two track days and two autocross events since installation. I noticed when I had my alignment done the previous event it looked like I lost a little camber the next day, maybe 1 degree. I just had an alignment done last Friday and did an autocross event on Sunday and everything went well but when I got home I could tell my alignment was definitely not -3. I got my oil changed this morning and when they raised the car to rotate my tires the strut dropped from the strut tower. The technicians put the strut back in place and told me after the fact so I couldn't really see what was going on at the time. Got home and raised car/took wheel off and was in the process of taking the strut off to see what was going on and the strut dropped and you could see the camber plate was broken. I hope this is warrantied and I can get another one soon. Not trying to bash MMS just wanted to give everyone a heads up if you notice that you're losing camber to check and see if your camber plate is broken. I'll be posting pics as soon as I get a chance.

Did you do a pre-race inspection before the track session(s) or Auto-X.

It would be nice to see where/when it failed.

The Tech who hand replaced the strut (and not notifying you) should be fired.

I'd bet that its either too thin of material or material failure. Can you post a close-up pic please, (front and rear).

Thanks for posting.

[Eric SS]

Originally Posted by Boost Creep

The plate that failed looks to be manufactured very narrow on three sides, the sides that failed.

Question: Are the threads still in the hole where the bolt is missing, or were they ripped out?

I'm wondering if the bolt backed out causing the plate to fail, or did the plate fail and rip out the one bolt.

That’s a good question. If the bolt backed itself out first it might cause stress in the areas it cracked I think. I’m definitely going to check mine. I don’t recall if those called for Loctite or not

[Eric SS]

Sorry, one more post. I do have one event on mine with no issues. The event was a short course track event. I had them set at -1.5* at the camber plate and an additional -1.5* at the knuckle. Zero toe.

[PinHead]

Originally Posted by TrackClub

Where are these things made?

Made in U.S.A.
They're in San Diego, CA. All In-House machine work
www.morenomotorsports.com

It could be just a fluke material failure.. Chit happens

[PinHead]

Originally Posted by lownslowss

Sounds like they need to metal up or make it beefier. Maybe use titanium there

A quality grade Aluminum Alloy will work just fine a 6061 or better, (and in some cases preform better than titanium).
https://www.metalsupermarkets.com/wh...-should-i-use/

[TEX1LE]

I left the camber plates at stock height because I'm lowered also.

[Boost Creep]

Originally Posted by TEX1LE

Will do Eric SS I'll see if I can move the thread to the autocross/track section.

Boost Creep- yes the threads are still there where the bolt is missing and I can tell it wasn't ripped out. I'm not sure regarding if the bolt backing out caused it to fail or if it failed first and then the bolt fell out. I wish I would've noticed it sooner and caught it before it failed completely. This car isn't my daily driver and I haven't hit any pot holes are anything else to cause it to fail. Since install factoring in driving to/from events and miles during the event I've driven a little over 250 miles

If you look at the bolt hole in the part of the broken plate that is still attached to the strut, the side not visible in the picture where the missing bolt went through. If the plate is in good condition, the bolt fell out before the plate failed. If the plate surface around the bolt hole is damaged, the plate failed causing the bolt to come out.

My money is on the bolt came out first causing the plate to eventually fail.

[TEX1LE]

Originally Posted by PinHead

Did you do a pre-race inspection before the track session(s) or Auto-X.

It would be nice to see where/when it failed.

The Tech who hand replaced the strut (and not notifying you) should be fired.

I'd bet that its either too thin of material or material failure. Can you post a close-up pic please, (front and rear).

Thanks for posting.

Yeah I do inspections before every event and make sure everything is torqued down. I wouldn't have caught this because the adjusment at the strut nut was inboard on the camber plates and covered the inside bolts. I was pretty frustrated to say the least at the techs but I was running late for work and didn't have time to push the issue with management. Sure I'll post some more pics tomorrow.

[TEX1LE]

Originally Posted by Boost Creep

If you look at the bolt hole in the part of the broken plate that is still attached to the strut, the side not visible in the picture where the missing bolt went through. If the plate is in good condition, the bolt fell out before the plate failed. If the plate surface around the bolt hole is damaged, the plate failed causing the bolt to come out.

My money is on the bolt came out first causing the plate to eventually fail.

Good analysis I'll have to check out the piece on the strut a little more.

[Eric SS]

Originally Posted by TEX1LE

Yeah I do inspections before every event and make sure everything is torqued down. I wouldn't have caught this because the adjusment at the strut nut was inboard on the camber plates and covered the inside bolts. I was pretty frustrated to say the least at the techs but I was running late for work and didn't have time to push the issue with management. Sure I'll post some more pics tomorrow.

Yeah, this isn’t something you would likely notice unless you were looking closely for it. I know you can see the 2 inboard bolts from the top but I’m not sure if you could see the outboard bolts

[TEX1LE]

Couple of closer pics

[Moreno1]

The bolt backed out leaving no support for the bearing housing which caused the failure. The 6mm bolts are installed with green loctite, the same loctite they use to fasten 2 piece brake rotors together. I am betting my assembler missed this bolt, which is of course on us, so i apologize for the incident, and i have a replacement on the way to TEX1LE. It would be good practice to make sure the bolts are tight and do not come out easy before install. We are doing another check on all outgoing units to make sure this does not happen again

[Eric SS]

Originally Posted by Moreno Motorsports

The bolt backed out leaving no support for the bearing housing which caused the failure. The 6mm bolts are installed with green loctite, the same loctite they use to fasten 2 piece brake rotors together. I am betting my assembler missed this bolt, which is of course on us, so i apologize for the incident, and i have a replacement on the way to TEX1LE. It would be good practice to make sure the bolts are tight and do not come out easy before install. We are doing another check on all outgoing units to make sure this does not happen again

Seriously, you guys have the best service.

[TEX1LE]

Originally Posted by Eric SS

Seriously, you guys have the best service.

Definitely!!