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Old 09-13-2012, 08:42 AM   #1
bee sting

 
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Question FE4 Suspension on 2010 question

Bought a complete FE4 strut/shock front rear take off setup from SLP to install on a V6 2010 . After attempting to install the from struts I found out that in 13 the FE4 end links have a larger stud connecting the inlink from the strut to the sway bar . Wont bolt up to my smaller sway bar . Not a big deal so I just ordered the takeoff FE4 sway bars . Problem solved on the front I hope .

Now my question is on the rear .. Does anyone know if the FE4 rear sway bar will bolt up to my 2010 control arms with just buying new FE4 end links ?
SLP is telling me that's all I need but not sure because on a 10-12 rear the sways bolt up outward and 13 bolt up inward on the control arm .
So would I need new control arms and links or just links ?
If my 10 arms have the hole up thru the control arm then maybe all I need is inlinks .
Any input would be great .
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Last edited by bee sting; 09-13-2012 at 09:57 AM.
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Old 09-13-2012, 09:45 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bee sting View Post
Bought a complete FE4 strut/shock front rear take off setup from SLP to install on a V6 2010 . After attempting to install the from struts I found out that in 13 the FE4 inlinks have a larger stud connecting the inlink from the strut to the sway bar . Wont bolt up to my smaller sway bar . Not a big deal so I just ordered the takeoff FE4 sawybars . Problem solved on the front I hope .

Now my question is on the rear .. Does anyone know if the FE4 rear sway bar will bolt up to my 2010 control arms with just buying new FE4 inlinks ?
SLP is telling me that's all I need but not sure because on a 10-12 rear the sways bolt up outward and 13 bolt up inward on the control arm .
So would I need new control arms and links or just links ?
If my 10 arms have the hole up thru the control arm then maybe all I need is inlinks .
Any input would be great .
The guy at SLP doesnt know whats what. To use the FE4 rear sway bar you will need the new rear lower control arms and end links. Control arms are part #20942237, and the end links are part #22761221. If there's anything else ya need let me know. I'm doing an FE6 swaybar conversion on my V6.
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Old 09-13-2012, 09:54 AM   #3
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Thanks.. Thats what I thought but when someone like SLP that does this for a living you'd think they would know .

I called Pedders to ask Pete yesterday but left a message , he wasn't in and haven't got a return call yet.
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Old 09-13-2012, 10:34 AM   #4
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you can install the rear fe4 strut/spring assembly and leave your rear sway and control arms on there that you have now. Or, you can buy 2013 control arms and the FE4 sway bar and endlinks. Search here...the 2013's mount the sway bar further outboard on the control arms.
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Old 09-13-2012, 10:47 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bee sting View Post
Bought a complete FE4 strut/shock front rear take off setup from SLP to install on a V6 2010 . After attempting to install the from struts I found out that in 13 the FE4 end links have a larger stud connecting the inlink from the strut to the sway bar . Wont bolt up to my smaller sway bar . Not a big deal so I just ordered the takeoff FE4 sway bars . Problem solved on the front I hope .

Now my question is on the rear .. Does anyone know if the FE4 rear sway bar will bolt up to my 2010 control arms with just buying new FE4 end links ?
SLP is telling me that's all I need but not sure because on a 10-12 rear the sways bolt up outward and 13 bolt up inward on the control arm .
So would I need new control arms and links or just links ?
If my 10 arms have the hole up thru the control arm then maybe all I need is inlinks .
Any input would be great .
To make the FE4 rear bar work on an FE3 car you would need to upgrade to 2012 rear control arms and 2012 rear endlinks. Your current control arms do not have the proper reinforced hole on the outside of the shock to properly mount the rear endlink. That being said...

The FE4 sway bar will very likely not work with your V6. The reason being is the Banjo bolt coming from the rear caliper will cause interference issues with the sway bar. It may clear when you have new brake pads, but as your pads wear and the sliding caliper slides towards the inside of the vehicle you run the very good risk of making contact between the rear sway and the rear banjo bolt. There is a user on Camaro5 using this setup, but the clearance is just too close for comfort for us, especially when there is a good potential for brake fluid loss if damage to the banjo occurs.
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Old 09-13-2012, 12:27 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bee sting View Post
Thanks.. Thats what I thought but when someone like SLP that does this for a living you'd think they would know .

I called Pedders to ask Pete yesterday but left a message , he wasn't in and haven't got a return call yet.
Yeah, not everyone who works for company's like that know as much as they need. The local performance parts shop, JEGS, hires employes like that all the time. The guys from Pedders and pfadt know there stuff. When you get one of the SLP suspension packages, they actually remove the FE4 style bars and install their older style inboard sway bar kit. Because the new rear control arms sill have the mount for the old links for the FE2 and FE3 packages. So the improvements made by gm are thrown out the window, and you end up with a car that still understeers.
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Old 09-13-2012, 12:29 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by PfadtRacing View Post
To make the FE4 rear bar work on an FE3 car you would need to upgrade to 2012 rear control arms and 2012 rear endlinks. Your current control arms do not have the proper reinforced hole on the outside of the shock to properly mount the rear endlink. That being said...

The FE4 sway bar will very likely not work with your V6. The reason being is the Banjo bolt coming from the rear caliper will cause interference issues with the sway bar. It may clear when you have new brake pads, but as your pads wear and the sliding caliper slides towards the inside of the vehicle you run the very good risk of making contact between the rear sway and the rear banjo bolt. There is a user on Camaro5 using this setup, but the clearance is just too close for comfort for us, especially when there is a good potential for brake fluid loss if damage to the banjo occurs.
Thank you, I forgot to mention that tidbit about the rear brakes. I have brembos so I didn't run into that issue.
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Old 09-13-2012, 02:13 PM   #8
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Thank you, I forgot to mention that tidbit about the rear brakes. I have brembos so I didn't run into that issue.
Glad you addressed that issue,that was going to be my next question. Guess I wont be using a better rear sways for now .
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Old 09-27-2012, 01:56 PM   #9
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Quote:
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Thanks.. Thats what I thought but when someone like SLP that does this for a living you'd think they would know .

I called Pedders to ask Pete yesterday but left a message , he wasn't in and haven't got a return call yet.
I am very sorry I missed your call. My mobile # is 616.834.8100 and my email PGB@peddersusa.com.
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Old 09-27-2012, 08:14 PM   #10
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I know you said your already brembo swapped but just for the info we ran V6 brakes with ZL1 sways for a few weeks and a few autocrosses before we swapped to brembos also we only had about 4000 miles on the car so brake pad wear wasn't an issue yet but i could see how there is a possible issue if the rear pads were very worn causing the caliper to slide inward to the rear sway but for the time we ran the set up it worked great
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