01-17-2014, 02:13 PM | #15 | |
2010 2SS/RS M6
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 1,482
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Background: 2010 2SS LS3. Within the last couple of weeks I have installed a new Pfadt sport sway bars (front and rear) and adjustible endlinks. I have also recently installed a complete exhaust system (not sure if this is part of it, but I'm listing it anyways). I installed a set of Pedders cradle inserts about a year ago with no change in sound. In the front I also installed Prothane radius rod inserts and a Prothane steering rack bushing. The specific scenario that causes the noise is when I turn and the car goes over un-even surface (like going over a concrete drain pan). Once it "knocks" on a left turn, it won't knock for any more left turns. That is, until it knocks going right. I've jacked the car up and checked all of the connections and everything in the rear is tight (even the wheel lugs). The sound seems to be coming from the rear, and at first I thought it was due to a can rolling around in the trunk. I can autocross the car hard without a sound, but it knocks if there is any sort of flex in the body. I was able to confirm the knocking sound in the garage by jacking up the right front wheel. Just as it comes off of the ground, the knock occurs. I then let the car down, jacked it up again with no sound. I then jacked the left front, and sure enough it knocked again. At this point, the only thing I can think of doing is to get a Gopro camera mounted underneath the car to see if anything "slips" when I go around the corner.
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2/7/2014: 419 hp, 419 tq
Cosmetic: ZL1 front w/mailslot, painted stripes, powdercoated SS rims, tow hook, and full chrome delete Suspension: Pfadt subframe bushings, Pfadt rear UCA bushings, Z28 Upper control arms, Spohn trailing arms with BMR trailing arm & differential bushings, ZL1 Toe Rods and springs, Prothane radius arm inserts & steering rack bushing, Pfadt Sport front sway, FE4 conversion w/ DS rear sway, Pfadt strut brace Drivetrain: RMCR tune, CAI intake, Kooks headers, hi-flo cats & exhaust, VMAX TB, ZL1 fuel pump, LSR Tri-Ax shifter Bumblebee Racecar Build |
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01-17-2014, 02:37 PM | #16 |
Drives: 2010 Silver SS/RS LS3 Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 882
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I et the knocking sound coming from the rear when I mostly make right turns which is why I looked and found the loose nut. Tightened it up but still hear the noise so it must be something else. Could it be the spring? I have stock springs but I do have 50K miles.
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2010 Silver Ice Metallic Camaro SS/RS LS3
Mods...so far: resonator/muffler delete, tinted everything, '13 shift knob/boot, bowtie delete, PFADT sway bars, CAI intake, Hurst short shifter, JBA cat deletes, BMR trailing arms/outer bushings/steering rack bushing, Bo White ported TB. Rhino79 Dyno tuned...405 HP/399 TQ |
01-17-2014, 02:47 PM | #17 |
2010 2SS/RS M6
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 1,482
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With it only knocking once per direction, it's like something is shifting. Once it's shifted to the left, it won't knock again until something makes it shift to the right. The part that makes it confusing is that it only "shifts" when the body flexes. I can (and have) run some pretty serious corners without it making a sound, but as soon as the ground is uneven (front-back, left-right) and the body to flexes, then *knock*.
The only other time I've experienced something like this was when the lugs on a wheel were loose and the camber would shift from negative to positive and back around each corner, but that didn't have a body flex component to it. I may just have one of my neighbors come over and jack it up while I'm lying down under the rear to see if I can isolate it.
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2/7/2014: 419 hp, 419 tq
Cosmetic: ZL1 front w/mailslot, painted stripes, powdercoated SS rims, tow hook, and full chrome delete Suspension: Pfadt subframe bushings, Pfadt rear UCA bushings, Z28 Upper control arms, Spohn trailing arms with BMR trailing arm & differential bushings, ZL1 Toe Rods and springs, Prothane radius arm inserts & steering rack bushing, Pfadt Sport front sway, FE4 conversion w/ DS rear sway, Pfadt strut brace Drivetrain: RMCR tune, CAI intake, Kooks headers, hi-flo cats & exhaust, VMAX TB, ZL1 fuel pump, LSR Tri-Ax shifter Bumblebee Racecar Build |
01-17-2014, 03:18 PM | #18 |
BL1ZZRD
Drives: '16 Camaro 2SS, '20 Equinox Redline Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 7,840
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If you are using spherical endlinks this might happen. I had a similar noise with BMR sphericals and had to remove them. BMR and Pedders make "quiet" endlinks that have a similar fitting as the stock ones but much beefier and don't bind like the sphericals can. Of course Pedders is out of commission now so check with BMR. I'm not sure if Pfadt does or not so check with the vendor you bought them from.
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01-17-2014, 03:51 PM | #19 |
2010 2SS/RS M6
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 1,482
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These are the endlinks I have:
http://www.jdpmotorsports.com/manufa...aro-ss-1410108 Looks like they are spherical. Is there anything I can do to prevent binding?
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2/7/2014: 419 hp, 419 tq
Cosmetic: ZL1 front w/mailslot, painted stripes, powdercoated SS rims, tow hook, and full chrome delete Suspension: Pfadt subframe bushings, Pfadt rear UCA bushings, Z28 Upper control arms, Spohn trailing arms with BMR trailing arm & differential bushings, ZL1 Toe Rods and springs, Prothane radius arm inserts & steering rack bushing, Pfadt Sport front sway, FE4 conversion w/ DS rear sway, Pfadt strut brace Drivetrain: RMCR tune, CAI intake, Kooks headers, hi-flo cats & exhaust, VMAX TB, ZL1 fuel pump, LSR Tri-Ax shifter Bumblebee Racecar Build |
01-17-2014, 06:32 PM | #20 | |
BL1ZZRD
Drives: '16 Camaro 2SS, '20 Equinox Redline Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 7,840
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01-17-2014, 11:24 PM | #21 |
2010 2SS/RS M6
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 1,482
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I may swap back to the stock rear end links, if only to see if they are the problem...
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2/7/2014: 419 hp, 419 tq
Cosmetic: ZL1 front w/mailslot, painted stripes, powdercoated SS rims, tow hook, and full chrome delete Suspension: Pfadt subframe bushings, Pfadt rear UCA bushings, Z28 Upper control arms, Spohn trailing arms with BMR trailing arm & differential bushings, ZL1 Toe Rods and springs, Prothane radius arm inserts & steering rack bushing, Pfadt Sport front sway, FE4 conversion w/ DS rear sway, Pfadt strut brace Drivetrain: RMCR tune, CAI intake, Kooks headers, hi-flo cats & exhaust, VMAX TB, ZL1 fuel pump, LSR Tri-Ax shifter Bumblebee Racecar Build |
01-18-2014, 08:49 AM | #22 |
BL1ZZRD
Drives: '16 Camaro 2SS, '20 Equinox Redline Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 7,840
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01-18-2014, 09:55 AM | #23 | |
SoCal Camaro5 Race Team
Drives: 2021 Shadow Grey Camaro 2SS 1LE Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: SO CAL
Posts: 14,288
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01-27-2014, 10:40 AM | #24 |
2010 2SS/RS M6
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 1,482
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Problem seems to be fixed. I'm not sure which of the 2 really fixed the problem, but here is what I did:
1) one of the "locking" nuts on the drivers side was loose. I tightened it back down again, but I noticed there was still some "play" in each of the two endlinks. 2) I legthened the passenger side endlink by 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch. This eliminated the "play" described in #1. What I'm thinking is that because the two endlinks were installed at the same length, the sway bar was able to rotate about a 1/16" before the endlink was engaged (due to the miniscule amount of space between the bearings and the bolts), and that engagement was the "clunk" sound I was hearing. By lengthening one endlink to remove that free movement, the sway bar is always just slightly engaged and no longer is allowed to move freely.
__________________
2/7/2014: 419 hp, 419 tq
Cosmetic: ZL1 front w/mailslot, painted stripes, powdercoated SS rims, tow hook, and full chrome delete Suspension: Pfadt subframe bushings, Pfadt rear UCA bushings, Z28 Upper control arms, Spohn trailing arms with BMR trailing arm & differential bushings, ZL1 Toe Rods and springs, Prothane radius arm inserts & steering rack bushing, Pfadt Sport front sway, FE4 conversion w/ DS rear sway, Pfadt strut brace Drivetrain: RMCR tune, CAI intake, Kooks headers, hi-flo cats & exhaust, VMAX TB, ZL1 fuel pump, LSR Tri-Ax shifter Bumblebee Racecar Build |
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