07-26-2019, 09:52 AM | #113 |
Drives: 2015 1LT Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: California
Posts: 22
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When it first started happening to me, I disconnected the wire from the "plunger" mechanism, then plugged it back in after a few minutes and the car was fine. But now, several months later it's doing it again and almost EVERY time. It typically happens when I put my parking brake on before shutting off the car. I had to keep pressing the button on the shifter in order for it to let go of the key. Seriously thinking about getting under there and disconnecting it again....or just getting a push button start lol hahaha.
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07-26-2019, 03:05 PM | #114 |
Drives: 2014 2LT RS Summit White Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 622
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07-27-2019, 10:22 AM | #115 |
Drives: 2015 1LT Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: California
Posts: 22
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07-28-2019, 05:58 PM | #116 |
Drives: '23 LT1 A10 Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Austin Texas
Posts: 957
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I still have the issue, just happens when it wants to. Pressing the shifter button until I hear the click near the key works, but I'm going to disconnect the plunger soon.
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24 LT1 M6 Sharkskin Metallic
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07-29-2019, 07:59 AM | #117 |
Drives: LT W/2LT,blue metallic Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: central florida
Posts: 4,903
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very easy fix,but remember not to throw the key out the window while in motion...
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09-10-2019, 02:23 PM | #118 |
Drives: 2014 Camaro RedRock Metallic 2LT/RS Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: San Diego
Posts: 12
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Someone else may have posted this elsewhere so I apologize in advance if I'm being redundant -- this is the method I used to fix this issue on my baby as it had started to drive me bonkers.
Anyway, another option is to pull the DLIS fuse (F1 in the INSTRUMENT PANEL FUSE BLOCK). No tools required. Disabling the "Direct Logic Ignition Switch" (DLIS) is the intended purpose -- to be able to remove the key while the car is out of (P)ark, primarily when you want to tow the vehicle. The real difference with the cable-disconnect option is that with the fuse pulled some other features (instrument panel, radio, etc.) will no longer have power when the key is in "Accessory Mode". |
09-11-2019, 09:17 AM | #119 |
HomezSS
Drives: 2014 SS/RS Camaro, 2011 Silverado Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Golden, CO
Posts: 96
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So, my 2014 just started doing this, key not coming out of the ignition when i put it in park. I have read this entire thread, and jotted down most of the options, which if I was paying attention included:
1. repeatedly click the shifter button, giggle the shifter into/our of part, move to drive and slam it into part, sit there, wait and be pissed off until it comes out. 2.Disconnect the lockout solenoid in the steering column that locks the ignition (5-10 min) Pros: it takes 5-10 min. Cons: key now can be removed while in accessory, or anytime (not clear - but some posts said it would NOT come out in drive, but would in accessory) My assessment, if your not an idiot and would for some reason try to take the key out while you were driving - its no big deal (and, as mentioned several times, don't throw the key out the window while driving) 3. Replace the Shifter Assembly - part #22894722. Pros: some said it fixed the problem, Cons: expensive if the dealer does it $500-700, part alone is $203 retail., $125 GMParts direct or other OEM wholesale online. some say, it did not fix the problem!!?? 4. Adjust the linkage on the shifter to ensure contact with some release mechanism/switch. Pros: I think one guy said it works, Cons: this suggestion, nor any of the others, seems to be the "sure fix", other than item 2 above - remember, don't throw the key out the window when driving if you choose this one! I am surprised there is not ONE comment from a GM technician to lay out what is going on and how to fix it?!?! So - with all of that, being a Detroit native with 45 plus years of wrenching, the problem drives me to 2 possible causes and fixes. there is clearly a break in the signal from when you put the shifter into park and the solenoid by the ignition that releases the lock. Electrically, there is the small switch on the shifter, that when you put the shifter into park, is depressed far enough to activate that solenoid by the ignition and release the key. Mechanically, the shifter lever itself must be adjusted to depress that switch far enough to activate it, and the solenoid by the ignition must be functional enough to move freely. My plan of attack will be (1) check the mechanical contact of the shifter to the switch . My gut tells me the linkage needs to be adjusted (assuming it is adjustable). I had an old Toyota and when i release the emergency brake, the light went off on the dash. one day, the light was not going off, I checked the cable and lever and everything was fine, but there was a small button/switch that when release, the handle contacted to turn the light OFF, that switch was broken. $3 later, problem solved! if that does not work, I will (2)check electrical functionality of switch on shifter, and solenoid by ignition. my #1 suspicion is that the small switch on the shifter is just worn out and needs to be replaced. Hopefully, i can get the switch and don't have to get the entire shifter assembly.next, I will check the movement of the key solenoid, and replace it if necessary. Asking your dealer unfortunately only opens the door for them to charge you an arm and a leg, but if they cannot product documentation that clearly says "this is the know problem, and this is the known fix" those guys are just guessing like we are. its very simply either mechanical (adjust the shifter/linkage) or electrical (the contact switch on the shifter or the solenoid by the ignition). I think the shifter is overkill, because the dealer wants to bend you over - mechanically, there is no way you can wear out an automatic shifter in 10000, 40000, 50000, 100000 miles - no way. it has to be that little switch on the shifter mechanism (I think I saw a Part # for the solenoid, but not sure I saw a # for the shifter switch - I will check with my local dealer) I PROMISE to post what I find, once I start disassembling the shifter cover to see what i can see. I will take pics. shocked that my google search and search of this outstanding form never produced a "sure fix" solution. usually, you can find anything by google, Camaro5 or YuoTube Cheers all
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HOMEZSS
2014 SS/RS, FR Style 41's, 20x10x4, Borla CatBack with Touring Mufflers w/Magnaflow Glasspacks, Cold Air Inductions Intake, Diablo 91 Octane Tune, Firm Shift, AFM off, BMR cradle inserts, trailing arms and toe links, 1LE/ZL1 Rear Sway Bar, Jannetty Custom Tune for mods noted above (noticable change to how the car drives!!), JL Audio XD700/5 amp and 10 inch Sub, Focal PS 165K's, special wiring kit and amp board, and lots of dynamat (Amazon version) - Sounds GREAT, Runs Even Better! |
09-12-2019, 10:28 PM | #120 |
Drives: '23 LT1 A10 Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Austin Texas
Posts: 957
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I disconnected the solenoid because I feared it would leave me stranded. There have been several times where I would have to press the shifter button many many times before I'd hear the column click. Worrysome.
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24 LT1 M6 Sharkskin Metallic
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09-13-2019, 08:03 AM | #121 |
Drives: 2014 2LT RS Summit White Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 622
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Having had this issue fixed under warranty by replacing the shifter, it seems that it is at least one likely culprit if not THE culprit. I am sure it’s not the entire shifter but a switch inside the shifter as mentioned above. Whether just the switch is a serviceable part or not I do not know.
My worry with the shifter replacement fix is that GM just installs the same faulty part number that’s never had the root cause issue fixed. So they replace a shifter that is susceptible to fail and has failed with another one that is susceptible to fail and probably will after the warranty is up. I call this “meet the new shifter, same as the old shifter”. |
09-26-2019, 06:24 PM | #122 | |
Drives: LT W/2LT,blue metallic Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: central florida
Posts: 4,903
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Quote:
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02-11-2020, 02:43 PM | #123 |
Drives: 2023 1SS Radiant A10 63 427 Impala Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: central Maryland
Posts: 93
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I suppose I can consider myself lucky? I drive my 2015 almost everyday and this stuck key issue is just now happening at 63K. I appreciate all the info found here. thanks.
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02-29-2020, 03:39 PM | #124 |
Drives: LT W/2LT,blue metallic Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: central florida
Posts: 4,903
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theres a video on here somewhere that shows how to disconnect the wire in the steering column to fix it.easy fix.i was going to be on my second shifter,first was under warranty but i was going to be paying for the second in less than two years.no thanks...
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03-24-2022, 01:10 PM | #125 |
Drives: 2015 Camaro 2LT RS Join Date: Mar 2022
Location: Florida
Posts: 1
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Key won’t come out (solution)
Had the same problem where my key would not come out even after messing around with the (automatic) shifter and wheel. Took it in to the dealer to see if they could fix it and they replaced the ignition cylinder and solonoid, which worked for a while but recently the problem began again. I saw other posts on here saying to disconnect the solenoid pin from the lever that locks the key in the ignition but couldn’t find any clear pics so here you guys go. You just push the black peg out from the lever, then just flip the lever in towards the dash and put the steering wheel cover back on. Just took one torx bit and a few screws takes about 5-10 mins max. The only downside is the key doesn’t lock at all even when driving, but there is enough tension from the cylinder itself to keep it turned unless you intentionally try to. However I did some experimenting and just incase it somehow gets turned off while driving, do not take the key fully out, just shift into neutral (to bypass the safety which stops you from starting the car in drive), start the car, and then shift back into drive and get on your way. In my opinion the trade off is worth it instead of having to jiggle everything around for 10 mins just to get out of the car.
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