Trunk release - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Scalded Dog · 08-31-2017, 04:54 PM

I was unable to find a good thread regarding trunk release failure (and, really, THIS thread ain't all that great, either, but might help somebody anyhow!)... however, I was able to find a lot of info buried in threads, most of which reflects my recent experience. Perhaps this thread title will make it easier for somebody else to find and fix the problem.

A few days ago, my trunk release latch quit working. In order to access the trunk, I had to drop the seatback, and pull the "Plan- B- after- getting- kidnapped- and- stuffed- into- the- trunk" handle. Not a big deal, but certainly not as convenient as pressing the button on my door or my key fob.

I first suspected the solenoid... since my relay (located in the fuse box on the driver's side dash) still made a "click" sound when I pressed the button, I assumed that the relay was good.

Fortunately, for me, before I began the solenoid replacement, I gave the wiring a thorough examination. Sure enough: As the trunk opens and closes, there is a section of the wiring that flexes. After 160,000 miles, and all of the corresponding openings and closings of the trunk, one of the wires had simply given up the ghost.

It was a simple fix: Nothing more than splicing the wire.

So, if you lose the ability to pop the trunk, inspect those wires.... pull the shroud away, tug, scrutinize, and there's a great chance that you'll find your culprit to be nothing more than a severed wire!

olblue75 · 08-31-2017, 08:02 PM

Probably would be a good idea to lengthen that wire a inch or so to avoid this issue??

Scalded Dog · 09-03-2017, 12:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by olblue75

Probably would be a good idea to lengthen that wire a inch or so to avoid this issue??

Good advice, should have mentioned that I did exactly that, and used a heavier gauge, but more flexible wire.

Syncamaro1234 · 03-21-2018, 04:12 PM

Well just saw the post,so already ordered the relay,which wasn't the problem,and mine also was clicking,I did briefly look at the wires where the trunk closes,but I didn't look or investigate the wires,I'm hoping that is the problem,if not I'm not sure,I would think even if the button on door panel if it didn't work,that shouldn't effect my key remote should open it.

Syncamaro1234 · 03-25-2018, 11:07 AM

Well,u are correct,the wires are very thin.my trunk quit,and was the wires,spliced them,wrapped them and all is good.Thanks

camguynj · 03-25-2018, 03:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scalded Dog

I was unable to find a good thread regarding trunk release failure (and, really, THIS thread ain't all that great, either, but might help somebody anyhow!)... however, I was able to find a lot of info buried in threads, most of which reflects my recent experience. Perhaps this thread title will make it easier for somebody else to find and fix the problem.

A few days ago, my trunk release latch quit working. In order to access the trunk, I had to drop the seatback, and pull the "Plan- B- after- getting- kidnapped- and- stuffed- into- the- trunk" handle. Not a big deal, but certainly not as convenient as pressing the button on my door or my key fob.

I first suspected the solenoid... since my relay (located in the fuse box on the driver's side dash) still made a "click" sound when I pressed the button, I assumed that the relay was good.

Fortunately, for me, before I began the solenoid replacement, I gave the wiring a thorough examination. Sure enough: As the trunk opens and closes, there is a section of the wiring that flexes. After 160,000 miles, and all of the corresponding openings and closings of the trunk, one of the wires had simply given up the ghost.

It was a simple fix: Nothing more than splicing the wire.

So, if you lose the ability to pop the trunk, inspect those wires.... pull the shroud away, tug, scrutinize, and there's a great chance that you'll find your culprit to be nothing more than a severed wire!

Where abouts behind the shroud are the wires?

Syncamaro1234 · 03-25-2018, 05:40 PM

Mine was at the rear of the trunk where it closes on top of the weather stripping.on mine you could tell where it had a dip in the weather stripping from shutting over the years.

airos4 · 04-26-2018, 08:31 AM

Pretty sure I'm having the same problem. Anyone got pictures of the area? What gauge wire do you use to splice?

frankwjr · 04-26-2018, 10:04 AM

actually should always use same gauge wire so as to not introduce extra resistance...just use same gauge but a tad longer...good luck

peace

jjanders0 · 05-10-2018, 01:54 PM

So...in my case, I had multiple wires that failed (snapped) due to the stress of continual opening/closing of the trunk. Pretty much every wire in the bundle is broken and honestly the wires themselves look almost dry-rotted so I wouldn't expect a splice to be a long term solution.

Can anyone tell me if the the wires that feed the trunk release latch are connectorized on the ends? Is replacing the wiring something I can do myself by peeling back the coverings in the trunk and pulling connectors or is it much more involved?

08-31-2017, 04:54 PM	#1
Scalded Dog Drives: 2011 1LT Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Crestline, CA Posts: 3,029	Trunk release I was unable to find a good thread regarding trunk release failure (and, really, THIS thread ain't all that great, either, but might help somebody anyhow!)... however, I was able to find a lot of info buried in threads, most of which reflects my recent experience. Perhaps this thread title will make it easier for somebody else to find and fix the problem. A few days ago, my trunk release latch quit working. In order to access the trunk, I had to drop the seatback, and pull the "Plan- B- after- getting- kidnapped- and- stuffed- into- the- trunk" handle. Not a big deal, but certainly not as convenient as pressing the button on my door or my key fob. I first suspected the solenoid... since my relay (located in the fuse box on the driver's side dash) still made a "click" sound when I pressed the button, I assumed that the relay was good. Fortunately, for me, before I began the solenoid replacement, I gave the wiring a thorough examination. Sure enough: As the trunk opens and closes, there is a section of the wiring that flexes. After 160,000 miles, and all of the corresponding openings and closings of the trunk, one of the wires had simply given up the ghost. It was a simple fix: Nothing more than splicing the wire. So, if you lose the ability to pop the trunk, inspect those wires.... pull the shroud away, tug, scrutinize, and there's a great chance that you'll find your culprit to be nothing more than a severed wire!

08-31-2017, 08:02 PM	#2
olblue75 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Clarksville Tennesse. Posts: 6,064	Probably would be a good idea to lengthen that wire a inch or so to avoid this issue?? __________________ Orange Krush II 1LE Front sway bar, Splitter, shocks and struts, Z28 dual mode mufflers, Intake, UCA Bushings, and Toresen 3.91 Diff. 1 piece DSS Drive Shaft, ZL1/C7 Calipers, and 32mm JPSS Rear Bar. ASC race spec splitter and wicker. 6th Gen M017 Wheels. Stainless Works 1 7/8 LTs. DSE and PAFDT Suspension components.

04-26-2018, 10:04 AM	#9
frankwjr Drives: 2010 SS 2SS M6 Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Smithsburg, Md. Posts: 2,445	actually should always use same gauge wire so as to not introduce extra resistance...just use same gauge but a tad longer...good luck peace __________________ 2010 SS 2SS M6 - Tune by RDP dynoSteve!(Woot) - Daily Driver - *150K!* - All work by me...

03-21-2018, 04:12 PM	#4
Syncamaro1234 Drives: 2011 LS camaro,synergy green Join Date: Jan 2018 Location: Bennettsville,SC Posts: 39 View My Garage	Well just saw the post,so already ordered the relay,which wasn't the problem,and mine also was clicking,I did briefly look at the wires where the trunk closes,but I didn't look or investigate the wires,I'm hoping that is the problem,if not I'm not sure,I would think even if the button on door panel if it didn't work,that shouldn't effect my key remote should open it.

03-25-2018, 11:07 AM	#5
Syncamaro1234 Drives: 2011 LS camaro,synergy green Join Date: Jan 2018 Location: Bennettsville,SC Posts: 39 View My Garage	Well,u are correct,the wires are very thin.my trunk quit,and was the wires,spliced them,wrapped them and all is good.Thanks

03-25-2018, 05:40 PM	#7
Syncamaro1234 Drives: 2011 LS camaro,synergy green Join Date: Jan 2018 Location: Bennettsville,SC Posts: 39 View My Garage	Mine was at the rear of the trunk where it closes on top of the weather stripping.on mine you could tell where it had a dip in the weather stripping from shutting over the years.

04-26-2018, 08:31 AM	#8
airos4 Drives: 2011 2SS IBM, 2008 Victory Vision Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Abington, PA Posts: 80	Pretty sure I'm having the same problem. Anyone got pictures of the area? What gauge wire do you use to splice?

05-10-2018, 01:54 PM	#10
jjanders0 Drives: Imperial Blue LS Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Atlanta, GA Posts: 40	So...in my case, I had multiple wires that failed (snapped) due to the stress of continual opening/closing of the trunk. Pretty much every wire in the bundle is broken and honestly the wires themselves look almost dry-rotted so I wouldn't expect a splice to be a long term solution. Can anyone tell me if the the wires that feed the trunk release latch are connectorized on the ends? Is replacing the wiring something I can do myself by peeling back the coverings in the trunk and pulling connectors or is it much more involved?