Anything else while I'm at it?

[go_go_gadget88]

Hey y'all,


I have decided, against my right foot's wishes, to hold off on doing boost for a while, and just enjoy having a fun on-motor car while I continue upgrading other things. Especially as I am not sure what route I really want to go still for that. I know I have a lot to learn with getting an m6 IRS car off the line well, and that's gonna be a lot easier with ~500whp vs considerably more.


That said, in order to squeeze a biiiiit more out of it for now, I just sent my intake off to GPI for rod-mod and porting. I know this isn't going to play nice if I go procharger/turbo down the road, but I expect it won't be hard to sell this and put that towards something better for boost like an LOD, I just don't want to plunk down the money for a big intake like that now, and decide I want to go the LSA/whipple route for my boost fix later.


I am just wondering, while it's going to be apart for a bit, if there is anything else I should look at doing to squeeze a bit more out of it for the time being? Current mods are listed in my signature. I didn't have immediate ideas or anything, but y'all are a huge source of knowledge and ideas, so wanted to toss it out there. Had thought about picking up a UDP as well, but not sure that's even worth it? I hear mixed things. Seemed like that with the intake work, could be a decent little boost at once.


Thanks guys

[acammer]

Originally Posted by go_go_gadget88

Hey y'all,


I have decided, against my right foot's wishes, to hold off on doing boost for a while, and just enjoy having a fun on-motor car while I continue upgrading other things. Especially as I am not sure what route I really want to go still for that. I know I have a lot to learn with getting an m6 IRS car off the line well, and that's gonna be a lot easier with ~500whp vs considerably more.


That said, in order to squeeze a biiiiit more out of it for now, I just sent my intake off to GPI for rod-mod and porting. I know this isn't going to play nice if I go procharger/turbo down the road, but I expect it won't be hard to sell this and put that towards something better for boost like an LOD, I just don't want to plunk down the money for a big intake like that now, and decide I want to go the LSA/whipple route for my boost fix later.


I am just wondering, while it's going to be apart for a bit, if there is anything else I should look at doing to squeeze a bit more out of it for the time being? Current mods are listed in my signature. I didn't have immediate ideas or anything, but y'all are a huge source of knowledge and ideas, so wanted to toss it out there. Had thought about picking up a UDP as well, but not sure that's even worth it? I hear mixed things. Seemed like that with the intake work, could be a decent little boost at once.


Thanks guys

25% UDP can make a little more power on a hydraulic power steering car like yours. I think it's reasonable to expect 5-10whp.

Now, we could get a SS4 NFC in there and make some more power - and it would play great with your future centrifugal plans.

[go_go_gadget88]

Originally Posted by acammer

25% UDP can make a little more power on a hydraulic power steering car like yours. I think it's reasonable to expect 5-10whp.

Now, we could get a SS4 NFC in there and make some more power - and it would play great with your future centrifugal plans.

I see from your sig you run one? What brand did you go with? I was looking at SLP and fluidampr..but quite a price difference between them for something that I will likely have to take back off at some point down the road, so leaning towards the SLP. Also curious about belts...they list the ones you need but I have seen mention that those are incorrect sizes.


And yeah, I'm sure you'd like that! There was no SS4 NFC when i did my cam, or that may have been tempting. Should have done f35 at least. As it is, I plan to at least leave this cam in it until the boost choice has been solidified. I think current cam would play decent with a centri. Not sure how well it'd do with PD or turbo, but certainly not ideal.

As usual, appreciate your input man!

[acammer]

Originally Posted by go_go_gadget88

I see from your sig you run one? What brand did you go with? I was looking at SLP and fluidampr..but quite a price difference between them for something that I will likely have to take back off at some point down the road, so leaning towards the SLP. Also curious about belts...they list the ones you need but I have seen mention that those are incorrect sizes.


And yeah, I'm sure you'd like that! There was no SS4 NFC when i did my cam, or that may have been tempting. Should have done f35 at least. As it is, I plan to at least leave this cam in it until the boost choice has been solidified. I think current cam would play decent with a centri. Not sure how well it'd do with PD or turbo, but certainly not ideal.

As usual, appreciate your input man!

I have a Powerbond on my car, essentially the same thing as the SLP. The Fluidampr is a really nice unit. You can find a lot of research that will point you in a variety of directions on the need for a late model internally balanced LS to have an actual balancer vs. simply a crank pulley. I think the Fluidampr is nice, but probably not a requirement.

As far as the under-drive "issues" you sometimes see some people talk about, I've seen none of that. My stock battery for 2011 still sits for 5 months every winter and then starts the car. A/C blows ice cold, and it doesn't get hot in traffic. I think the issues people see when they add an underdrive usually just them bringing to light a pre-existing issue they just made worse.

We list all the belt options (there are few depending on the power steering type) on our site. Grab a new crank bolt too (also a drop down option on the site), the OE is TTY. Many reuse without problems - it's a $5 piece of insurance IMO.

https://gwatneyperformance.com/produ...gn=25UDCamaro5

On the cam - I hope it was clear that was mostly tongue in cheek. There definitely would be gains there, but it would be more work than you'd probably want to bother with. The cam you have now should still play nicely with a centri. Turbo or PD should have an application specific camshaft.

[Tajefe Couple]

I have the SLP 25% and the ARP bolt. Like he said "cheap insurance".
Just curious did you pin your crank Andrew?

[acammer]

Originally Posted by Tajefe Couple

I have the SLP 25% and the ARP bolt. Like he said "cheap insurance".
Just curious did you pin your crank Andrew?

My crank isn't pinned.

[christianchevell]

I would recommend a separate holden clutch reservoir like they sell on diygen5.com and the starter in my sig. Spanked a Tesla yesterday pissed the wife off...LOL

[zz430camaro]

Race Scoop

https://jannettyracing.com/collectio...10-2015-camaro

[go_go_gadget88]

Originally Posted by acammer

I have a Powerbond on my car, essentially the same thing as the SLP. The Fluidampr is a really nice unit. You can find a lot of research that will point you in a variety of directions on the need for a late model internally balanced LS to have an actual balancer vs. simply a crank pulley. I think the Fluidampr is nice, but probably not a requirement.

As far as the under-drive "issues" you sometimes see some people talk about, I've seen none of that. My stock battery for 2011 still sits for 5 months every winter and then starts the car. A/C blows ice cold, and it doesn't get hot in traffic. I think the issues people see when they add an underdrive usually just them bringing to light a pre-existing issue they just made worse.

We list all the belt options (there are few depending on the power steering type) on our site. Grab a new crank bolt too (also a drop down option on the site), the OE is TTY. Many reuse without problems - it's a $5 piece of insurance IMO.

https://gwatneyperformance.com/produ...gn=25UDCamaro5

On the cam - I hope it was clear that was mostly tongue in cheek. There definitely would be gains there, but it would be more work than you'd probably want to bother with. The cam you have now should still play nicely with a centri. Turbo or PD should have an application specific camshaft.

Right on, would probably just go with SLP/PB vs the fluidampr...especially when there is a chance it needs to come back off later for a different pulley. I am not as worried about any "issues" with the underdrive itself since I'm cammed, and idle is quite a bit higher than stock. Will probably bring accessory drive speed just back down to where it was.

I saw the belt options, I had just seen other mentions of people having issues getting right size, and never know who actually got what. I already have an ARP style crank bolt (I think powell is where i got it, but it's made to be re-used). I knew that would pay for itself in the long run, plus now I can just torque it instead of worrying about angles.


And lastly, on the cam part, I knew that was mostly joking. But I see you are a GPI sales guy now (congrats, btw! Had been off the forums for a while), so figured I'd play into it a bit! I know there is a little power left there, but it's not a lot, and certainly not worth the time/money investment from where I currently am! Hindsight is always 20-20 thou, right??

Originally Posted by christianchevell

I would recommend a separate holden clutch reservoir like they sell on diygen5.com and the starter in my sig. Spanked a Tesla yesterday pissed the wife off...LOL

I planned to do the split res at some point, but was just going to wait until clutch time and do that while i'm doing the clutch/tob/speed bleeder.

Good job on the tesla whoopin thou!

Originally Posted by zz430camaro

Race Scoop

https://jannettyracing.com/collectio...10-2015-camaro

I have looked at these before. Won't that require me to move my washer bottle though? (which I think means I will need to move catch can with where I have it now. Also, does the front clip need to come off to install this? Thought I saw that being the case somewhere, in which case I would probably do it when I get around to doing a tow-hook, so I only have to pull clip once.

[zz430camaro]

You dont have to remove the front clip to do the race scoop, yes you remove the washer bottle. they have a kit for another washer bottle if you want but i just eliminated mine.

[acammer]

Originally Posted by go_go_gadget88

...

But I see you are a GPI sales guy now (congrats, btw! Had been off the forums for a while), so figured I'd play into it a bit! ...

Thanks buddy. It's a great company to be working for. I'm part time, and still very much working a "day" job, but it's a great opportunity to work with some of the very best in the business.

[go_go_gadget88]

Well, my "estimated 1-2 weeks" turned into a month and a half pretty quickly...but finally got my intake back yesterday!! Looks good, can't wait to get this thing going again after being down so long.


However, I got it buttoned back up last night, went to start it,and it made a nice pop and was idling high. Quickly realized I hadn't connected the brake booster line, whoops!

Fixed that, and then realized I may have an injector leak, as it looks like a little fuel was pooling up around the top of the injector on Cylinder 3. Is that likely just a bad o-ring? seeing how these are set up, I'm not sure how fuel could really leak "up" from the injector?

Firing it back up to test, it sounds like it's running fine. However, now it has a service stabilitrak message as well...so not sure what is going on. Shut off and back on, still there. Was mostly out of time for the evening. I checked plug wires quick and they all seem to be seated. only other thing I found was the line running from intake to evap solenoid was not fully seated, would that cause the stabilitrak light?

Just trying to figure out what is going on. Go figure it isn't gonna be as easy for me as put intake back on and drive it around

[sixty9fordkiller]

Originally Posted by christianchevell

I would recommend a separate holden clutch reservoir like they sell on diygen5.com and the starter in my sig. Spanked a Tesla yesterday pissed the wife off...LOL

Your wife or the wife of the Tesla driver?

[sixty9fordkiller]

Originally Posted by go_go_gadget88

Firing it back up to test, it sounds like it's running fine. However, now it has a service stabilitrak message as well...so not sure what is going on. Shut off and back on, still there. Was mostly out of time for the evening. I checked plug wires quick and they all seem to be seated. only other thing I found was the line running from intake to evap solenoid was not fully seated, would that cause the stabilitrak light?

Just trying to figure out what is going on. Go figure it isn't gonna be as easy for me as put intake back on and drive it around

Is the battery low form the car being down for so long?? Sometimes a low battery will cause it