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Old 05-18-2013, 09:51 PM   #1
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CAN'T DISCONNECT O2 ELECTICAL PLUGS DURING HEADER INSTALL

What a PITA, I can't access, cant hardly reach my hands to unplug the front 02 sensors up top by the rear of the heads. My approach now is to disconnect the O2 sensors from the cat pipe,(i sprayed PB Blaster on them last nite). the sensors came out easy, now I will drop the manifold-catpipe combo, then hopefully I can reach up from down below to disconnect the O2 plug so i can put in the O2 extensions. haven't heard much about people having a problem with this...I sure am, well I will finish it up tomorrow
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Old 05-18-2013, 09:54 PM   #2
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Yea...it can be tricky. I walked away for a little bit and came back to it. You will get...
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Old 05-18-2013, 10:06 PM   #3
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Pull the tab up and pull. Is the best I can describe it bud.
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Old 05-18-2013, 10:06 PM   #4
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I unbolted a few bolts first til it game me some room back there.
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Old 05-18-2013, 11:21 PM   #5
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Make sure you pull those little locking strips on the tab.
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Old 05-18-2013, 11:47 PM   #6
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It's like a grenade pin.. I cut mine and pulled them out.
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Old 05-19-2013, 12:13 AM   #7
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Get the green tab out first.

Name:  green_tab_everyone_hates.jpg
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Then all you have to do is rest your finger on the tab and pull down while stretching the latch. It pops loose so easy.
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Old 05-19-2013, 06:36 AM   #8
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In addition to the green locking pin mentioned, I had a problem removing the entire plug from the back of the head. I broke one off and managed to unhook the other one. Regardless, they are a PITA. I used zip ties to tidy things up after I got everything back together. MUCH easier to deal with.

Actually, I thought the rear sensors were harder to unplug than the fronts. I couldn't get two hands in that space.
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Old 05-19-2013, 09:44 AM   #9
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is the tab the part that the green grenade pin holds together? therefore once the pin is removed the black 'tab' should rotate away from allowing the plug to be pulled down...i will try this in a couple of hours.
Quote:
Get the green tab out first.



Then all you have to do is rest your finger on the tab and pull down while stretching the latch. It pops loose so easy.
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Old 05-19-2013, 10:35 AM   #10
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If you think you are having problems removing them. Wait to get them back on. It's easy to snap in but those green tabs are a pita. I just left them off. I can't get them to save my life. Even my wife's smaller hands had no luck.
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Old 05-19-2013, 11:11 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by black79ta View Post
is the tab the part that the green grenade pin holds together? therefore once the pin is removed the black 'tab' should rotate away from allowing the plug to be pulled down...i will try this in a couple of hours.
Yep. Here is a pic of the pin pulled and the connector disconnected.

Name:  driver_o2_disconnected.jpg
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Size:  108.2 KB
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Old 05-19-2013, 11:12 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ackeight View Post
If you think you are having problems removing them. Wait to get them back on. It's easy to snap in but those green tabs are a pita. I just left them off. I can't get them to save my life. Even my wife's smaller hands had no luck.
I just left them off too. Those connectors have PLENTY of positive latch without the green pins.
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Old 05-19-2013, 01:18 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thahemp View Post
I just left them off too. Those connectors have PLENTY of positive latch without the green pins.
That's what I was thinking. Plus I zip tied them securely so the wire doesn't move much.
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Old 05-19-2013, 10:41 PM   #14
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Well wrapping my finger around the back side of the O2 plug and pulling down, did the trick. the connector popped right off. Thanks for the help. Accessing the header bolts was a PITA also, I said to hell with this and picked up a husky brand air ratchet, it was worth the cost. I found with the cat/manifold off, I was easily able to reach up to connect the O2 extensions from down below, however the driver side I got from up top. I also had to disconnect the neg. ground at the pass side head (front) to access that header bolt. another tidbit is i reused some of the factory bolts on the pass side and will probably reuse all of them on the driver side. they have a short non threaded portion that helps center the bolt. IMO they are actually stronger bolts than the ones supplied by kooks, (kooks are grade 8.8 and the factory are 10.x )but the strength of the bolt is not an issue in this application, since the bolt torque is fairly low. so far i have about 9 hrs into this, with another 2 hrs to go to finish off the headers then more time to modify my FATCB to 3"(have a diff thread going on about this) will try to get it all done before the weekend. I also used blue locktite on the header bolts, kooks did not say, there was something used on the factory bolts.
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