[Eyefixstuff]

Originally Posted by Slowhawk

sounds like a starter problem. If the starter fuse is blowing, that should have nothing to do with the fuel system fuses.

I was thinking this as well, but I think from what he described it’s blowing a fuse in the rear of the car. I believe fuse for the starter would be under the hood. Could be wrong though, not near my car to look. Could be a case with whatever fuse is blowing is telling the ecm to not let the car crank. Seen stuff like that before on other cars.

[Drsagacity]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

I advise against driving around with a cup holder full of fuses, replacing them when they pop. If a fuse is consistently blowing, then you have a problem that needs to be corrected before something burns up or catches fire. Fuses are meant to protect a system from shorts or too much amperage. Adding a bigger fuse to that specific circuit is a risk as well unless it has been tested that that specific circuit can handle more amperage.

I agree. Since changing the settings on the BAP I haven’t had a blown fuse. If I have another, I will be waiting to get the car back to the mechanic...hopefully, we will get through all of the setup to see if we can pinpoint it. But I agree. One more popped fuse and I am holding off.

[Drsagacity]

Originally Posted by Eyefixstuff

I was thinking this as well, but I think from what he described it’s blowing a fuse in the rear of the car. I believe fuse for the starter would be under the hood. Could be wrong though, not near my car to look. Could be a case with whatever fuse is blowing is telling the ecm to not let the car crank. Seen stuff like that before on other cars.

The starter fuse is in the front of the car and that is the fuse that is blowing. My working theory is that there is an always on power source that they have tied into and so when the starter tries to kick on, the BAP is adding amps and causing the failure. After reconfiguring the BAP I haven't had a problem....however, I do not believe the BAP is configured correctly so as soon as the guys are available, we will get it in and make the changes. But for now, it's working and I am having a blast tuning.

The car sounds so badass right now. One unexpected benefit is that with Ted's tuning, the car is much quieter cruising. He has the rpm's running lower so that there is no drone from the exhaust...result, loud when I accelerate and want it, and quiet cruising...AWESOME!

[ADM PERFORMANCE]

Double check the wiring harness that runs along the frame rail on the passenger side frame rail just below the overflow tank/fill tank for coolant.

When headers are installed this harness is susceptible to getting to close to the header and melting it. The melting of wires together can change conductivity with varying temps.

If your blowing the actual fuse that protects the wire that runs from the underhood fuse block relay to the starter than your problem is there.


BTW - Just trying to help here,not hurt

[Drsagacity]

Originally Posted by ADM PERFORMANCE

Double check the wiring harness that runs along the frame rail on the passenger side frame rail just below the overflow tank/fill tank for coolant.

When headers are installed this harness is susceptible to getting to close to the header and melting it. The melting of wires together can change conductivity with varying temps.

If your blowing the actual fuse that protects the wire that runs from the underhood fuse block relay to the starter than your problem is there.


BTW - Just trying to help here,not hurt

Awesome info. I haven’t had a problem since I changed the settings on the BAP. However, when I get the car back to the team and get it on the lift, I will definitely have them take a look at this. Much appreciated!

[L78toLT1]

Hey drsag, glad to see that you have apparently resolved your starter/fuse issue. I'm following pretty much in your footsteps - ordered the balance of Ted Jannetty's street brawler package last week. I went with the smooth idle cam and hope i don't regret it, your car sounds sweet, not nearly as agressive as most of the stage 1 or 2 NA cams i have heard. Did you go with 1 7/8 or 2" headers? I noticed that the street brawler package as described on Ted's website uses 1 7/8. I have the kooks 1 7/8 and do not plan on swapping them out but i would have thought that, starting from scratch, 2" would be a better choice.
My current dilemma is whether or not to do pistons or pistons/rods. I'm just gathering parts at this stage, this will be my winter project.

[Drsagacity]

Originally Posted by L78toLT1

Hey drsag, glad to see that you have apparently resolved your starter/fuse issue. I'm following pretty much in your footsteps - ordered the balance of Ted Jannetty's street brawler package last week. I went with the smooth idle cam and hope i don't regret it, your car sounds sweet, not nearly as agressive as most of the stage 1 or 2 NA cams i have heard. Did you go with 1 7/8 or 2" headers? I noticed that the street brawler package as described on Ted's website uses 1 7/8. I have the kooks 1 7/8 and do not plan on swapping them out but i would have thought that, starting from scratch, 2" would be a better choice.
My current dilemma is whether or not to do pistons or pistons/rods. I'm just gathering parts at this stage, this will be my winter project.

I went with 1 7/8 Kooks headers. I took guidance from others on the forum about problems hitting the drive shaft with the 2in setup. Also, I will be stopping between 750-800whp, so I don’t think the difference will not matter. If I had planned to go over 1000whp, I probably would have done more to figure out the 2in header option.

I would definitely go with the rod and piston setup. Ted has that setup now, but when I ordered he had pistons only. In fact, I was just talking to my mechanic and we are looking at the next round of mods, which will include forged rods.

Unfortunately, when I found out that JRE had the piston/rod combo my car was already delivered to the shop and I couldn’t get the rods in time. It’s my only regret so far.

If I had the forged rods, I would look at options to go up to 13psi. . .with just pistons, I am going to hold steady at 11psi. On the street, that means 750whp is where I stop. I will still get a track tune to run on race fuel...so I can run closer to 850whp. As I see it, on the street, there is no difference.

[L78toLT1]

I expect that I'll have talked myself into the piston and rod combo by the time i embark on my next phase. I wonder what Ted's setup consist of? I'll have to give him a call sometime this week. Gwatney has a pretty good setup as does Texas speed. Not sure if the tx speed version requires balancing though.

[Eldi Z]

Originally Posted by L78toLT1

I expect that I'll have talked myself into the piston and rod combo by the time i embark on my next phase. I wonder what Ted's setup consist of? I'll have to give him a call sometime this week. Gwatney has a pretty good setup as does Texas speed. Not sure if the tx speed version requires balancing though.

Are you planning to balance after installing the Piston/Rods combo?

My understanding is, that the currently existing aftermarket forged Pistons
or Pistons/Rods combos (I.E. CMS, Vengence, GPI) do not have the exact same Bob weight as the Stock parts.

Has anyone actually weighed any of the Aftermarket material side-by-side to the stock material?

[L78toLT1]

Yeah, if i do pistons and rods, i will balance. I'd like to start with "drop-in" parts though to limit the amount of material that needs to be added or removed.

[Drsagacity]

I went with drop in pistons and we had no need to rebalance. We were told it was the exact same weight. I actually believe my guys tested that before installing. That was one of the reasons we went just pistons...but, if I had it to do over again, I would do both.

Most likely, I will wait until winter and see how things are running. I may go ahead and do some more stuff then, including rods, arp main bolts, and Alky injection.

[Eldi Z]

Originally Posted by Drsagacity

I went with drop in pistons and we had no need to rebalance. We were told it was the exact same weight. I actually believe my guys tested that before installing.

Interesting if you could ask them if by chance they weighed the pistons before installing in order to validate that they equal the stock ones.
Which brand of pistons did you use?

Are you still on this motor?
How much WHP are you seeing and what kind of boost levels?

[L78toLT1]

Has anyone tried the tx speed rotating assy? It includes forged pistons, beefed up rods and a stock gm crank. Price is around $1800 with another $225 to balance. That's not too bad and you keep your stockers. I imagine you could sell those for a couple hundred bucks and wind up with a fully balanced assy for around the same price as drop in piston/rod combos.

[chross12]

I love it!! A True Racer with a camera and a skateboard.. I don't know about any of this tuning and codes so I'm no help there. I'm wondering how the track time went. Did you get a set of slicks? or did you get the R888R? I hope all you guys have a great weekend of hopefully racing!