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Old 03-04-2012, 06:57 PM   #57
MileMAN402
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A 2" almost is too big for the knuckle but works as long as you line it up straight
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Old 03-04-2012, 07:07 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by njdad61 View Post
Since there wasn't enough room to get a ratchet and deep well socket on the nut because of the rotor guard, you have to have enough washers to keep the nut from going too far to hold it with a wrench. I'm sure a 2" hole saw would work, I just saw in PQ's video that he used a 1 7/8" and it fit perfectly around the bushing.
Figures that after writing it lol. Can't wait to start work on it on wednesday!!!
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Old 03-11-2012, 02:28 PM   #59
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Disregard, I got it! No need to remove anything! It was a tight fit but they came out like butta!

Used your method today on my G8... made it SIMPLE... before this I was killing myself trying to figure it out. Thank you for posting this!
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Old 03-11-2012, 02:32 PM   #60
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I tried but it just broke threw the hole saw, ended up just undoing the lower control arm bolt and lifting the bracket up to get a ball joint press on it
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Old 03-11-2012, 06:47 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caswell239 View Post
I tried but it just broke threw the hole saw, ended up just undoing the lower control arm bolt and lifting the bracket up to get a ball joint press on it
Hmm did you use a high quality hole saw? My hole saw didn't even bend, only the washer behind it.
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Old 03-11-2012, 08:08 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by MileMAN402 View Post
Hmm did you use a high quality hole saw? My hole saw didn't even bend, only the washer behind it.
I used the pulley puller... worked perfect!
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Old 03-11-2012, 08:40 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by STL_G8GT View Post
Used your method today on my G8... made it SIMPLE... before this I was killing myself trying to figure it out. Thank you for posting this!
Excellent! Glad to help a G8 friend!
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Old 03-18-2012, 04:04 PM   #64
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Mustang drag challenge

I bought a small gear puller since any project is good excuse to buy a new tool. Thanks OP for the idea. Then I buy my outer TA bushings from Apex Chase. Great service bythe way. Then on a pleasant Sunday afternoon I decide to do the deed.

So I pull the driver's side tire and carefully set up the jack stand. (I hate jack stands.) I get the outer TA nut off (its on the side facing the front of the car) and carefull tap out the outer TA bolt.

BUT head of the bolt hits the stock lower control arm before it comes all the way out. I try putting a load on the axle with the floor jack but no help. So I put the whole thing back together. I see no way to do this without lowering the LCA too. Is this needed? Or am I doing something wrong?

My local Camaro club has a Mustang challenge coming up at the drags and I still have wheelhop. How will I represent?
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Old 03-18-2012, 04:11 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by Fraxum View Post
I bought a small gear puller since any project is good excuse to buy a new tool. Thanks OP for the idea. Then I buy my outer TA bushings from Apex Chase. Great service bythe way. Then on a pleasant Sunday afternoon I decide to do the deed.

So I pull the driver's side tire and carefully set up the jack stand. (I hate jack stands.) I get the outer TA nut off (its on the side facing the front of the car) and carefull tap out the outer TA bolt.

BUT head of the bolt hits the stock lower control arm before it comes all the way out. I try putting a load on the axle with the floor jack but no help. So I put the whole thing back together. I see no way to do this without lowering the LCA too. Is this needed? Or am I doing something wrong?

My local Camaro club has a Mustang challenge coming up at the drags and I still have wheelhop. How will I represent?
Same thing happened to me on the driver side. I had to unbolt the lower control arm and pry it out of the way. No biggy, only took an additional 1/2 hour. Wierd thing is that the passenger side bolt just cleared and I didn't have to remove the LCA! Go ahead and do the deed before the challenge!
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Old 03-18-2012, 09:42 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssmike View Post
Same thing happened to me on the driver side. I had to unbolt the lower control arm and pry it out of the way. No biggy, only took an additional 1/2 hour. Wierd thing is that the passenger side bolt just cleared and I didn't have to remove the LCA! Go ahead and do the deed before the challenge!
Thanks. I was just worried this would force me into a wheel alignment. I wanted to to that once after replacing some of the front bushings.
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Old 03-19-2012, 01:46 AM   #67
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Originally Posted by njdad61 View Post
Sorry I forgot to take pictures, but this what I used to get mine out:

All of this is from Lowe's Hardware Department
6" Full Threaded Bolt - Thread Size 3/8-16 (buy 2 in case the threads get chewed up.)
Grade 8 Nuts - 3/8-16 (buy 4 or 5)
Grade 8 Washers - 3/8 (buy enough to be able to push the bushing out. Around 10 should be good.)
1 7/8" Hole Saw - (like in PQ's video. I got one made for metal so the teeth dug in to keep it from turning. Just left a few minor scratches)

9/16 Wrench and 9/16 Socket or Ratcheting Wrench to turn/hold the bolt/nut.

that's how i did mine. i used a socket just a little biger then the bushing.
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Old 03-19-2012, 01:57 PM   #68
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Here is another illustration that may help you guys with some ideas on how to remove that bushing. It's really not too tricky with the proper tools, and definitely worth the time to replace the factory rubber bushing!

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Old 07-23-2021, 07:39 PM   #69
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Disregard, I got it! No need to remove anything! It was a tight fit but they came out like butta!
What’s this tool called? I’ve been trying to find it
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