Trailing arm outer bushing removal question?

[NC-V]

Originally Posted by Fraxum

Is an alignment required for this?

I would highly recommend an alignment after any suspension upgrade aside from sway bars.

The Rear subframe is actually quite easy to remove, even in a household setting. If you have a good jack and some tall jack stands, just get the car as high as possible (SAFELY). Remove wheels, remove calipers and hang on body, remove exhaust(easier with aftermarket exhausts), remove 4 upper strut mounting bolts on each side, remove d-shaft bolts and hang on body, put a trans jack or creative blocking on floor jack, remove 4 sub-frame bolts and lower sub-frame. I wouldn't want to try to replace the sub-frame bushings with it just partially out of the car, just me though.

[Zman12]

Anyone have a link to PQ's video. I tried searching didn't come up with it.

Thanks in advance.

[MileMAN402]

Originally Posted by Zman12

Anyone have a link to PQ's video. I tried searching didn't come up with it.

Thanks in advance.

Here you go.. PQ's trailing arm bushing removal video

[Zman12]

Thanks

[MileMAN402]

Does anyone have an appx weight on the subframe?

[BMR guy]

Originally Posted by Fraxum

Is an alignment required for this?

We have checked alignment before and after dropping the cradle and the difference was so slight that we didn't re-align it. That doesn't mean that everybody will get lucky though every time so we do recommend an alignment afterwards just to be safe.

The camber and toe will not change as long as none of the suspension links are unbolted. The issue is that the cradle may not go back exactly where it was which changes rear toe relative to the front wheels. The front and rear toe need to be aligned to prevent tracking issues (dog walking).

[MileMAN402]

teaser pic


I'll post a full install thread when I get home in early March.

[Fraxum]

Originally Posted by BMR guy

We have checked alignment before and after dropping the cradle and the difference was so slight that we didn't re-align it. That doesn't mean that everybody will get lucky though every time so we do recommend an alignment afterwards just to be safe.

The camber and toe will not change as long as none of the suspension links are unbolted. The issue is that the cradle may not go back exactly where it was which changes rear toe relative to the front wheels. The front and rear toe need to be aligned to prevent tracking issues (dog walking).

Oh I was just talking about the Trailing Arm outer bushings. Does that require and alignment? The differential and cradle bushings are already done.

[BMR Sales]

Originally Posted by Fraxum

Oh I was just talking about the Trailing Arm outer bushings. Does that require and alignment? The differential and cradle bushings are already done.

The outer trailing arm bushing install will not require an alignment, just install them and go put them to use.

[Rich@BSP]

Any time I change a suspension part I always check the alignment. It may not be necessary but a alignment is cheaper than tires, plus a good alignment is part of a good suspension set up. A good suspension set up will make you faster on the track. IMO

[BMR guy]

Originally Posted by Fraxum

Oh I was just talking about the Trailing Arm outer bushings. Does that require and alignment? The differential and cradle bushings are already done.

As Kyle mentioned, simply lowering the trailing arm and replacing the outer bushings in the spindle will not effect alignment whatsoever. The trailing arms are not one of the rear links that serve as alignment adjustment points and since the car was already aligned with the current suspension parts, you are ready to go!

[njdad61]

Just rented a 2-prong puller from Autozone for my BMR Trailing Arm install tomorrow. Their normal rental was broken so they rented me a brand new one from off the shelf. Only a $30 deposit that I'll get back in full when it's returned. They gave me a washer and nut that would work with it too. Hard to beat free!

[ssmike]

[MileMAN402]

Originally Posted by njdad61

Just rented a 2-prong puller from Autozone for my BMR Trailing Arm install tomorrow. Their normal rental was broken so they rented me a brand new one from off the shelf. Only a $30 deposit that I'll get back in full when it's returned. They gave me a washer and nut that would work with it too. Hard to beat free!

Nice I might look into that then too if it's free. Idk if it will fit to work on the diff bushings though, so I may still make my own tool.