Driver Window Wont Go Down

[edmalec13]

OK, after a week and researching wiring diagrams, replacing lock actuator and window motors, I finally figured out the issue. Thank God I was able to return both the window motor and door actuator because mine were good. The BCM was good, although after tracing the wires i found the gray/black wire (door trigger) that send the signal stating the door is open and controls the drivers window was hanging by a thread on the BCM side. After fixing the wire and resetting the memory of the windows, all is fixed. I can see how this happened as the prior owner played with and tapped into some of the wiring down there for aftermarket accessories that I also removed while investigating this issue.

Use this as a reference and starting point with anyone having the same issue. Hope this helps everyone else.

[Mrcorvil07]

Similar issue to original post, When I remove the key from the ignition and open the drivers door the radio does not turn off. In addition to that the drivers window will not go up or down. I can lower the passenger window from either side but no response on the drivers window. I took it to the dealership, first they charge me for the window regulator but that wasn’t it. Then I got charged another 90 to see if it “could be the actuator” then they said I had aftermarket wiring so to track down the source it would cost another 200 for labor. Mind you this didn’t include the price after the found the issue. Any solutions to this problem? Because I’m having a horrible experience with Jacksonville FL Chevy dealerships.

[ps_1130]

Originally Posted by Mrcorvil07

Similar issue to original post, When I remove the key from the ignition and open the drivers door the radio does not turn off. In addition to that the drivers window will not go up or down. I can lower the passenger window from either side but no response on the drivers window. I took it to the dealership, first they charge me for the window regulator but that wasn’t it. Then I got charged another 90 to see if it “could be the actuator” then they said I had aftermarket wiring so to track down the source it would cost another 200 for labor. Mind you this didn’t include the price after the found the issue. Any solutions to this problem? Because I’m having a horrible experience with Jacksonville FL Chevy dealerships.

For me it ended up being that. There was a short in in wiring, in connector at bottom of door jamb. I would take to car electrical shop. They might find it it quicker and be cheaper than dealer.