AAC P13W Plasma LED DRL Lights Installed

[Powhusku]

Just finished up my installation today. These are the new revised P13W's. The lights look good, and are very bright. Much better looking than the OEM ones. Installation took about 10 minutes, but I also got the DRL harness for and additional $10. The DRL harness is kind of a PITA to install, since there isnt much room down there to work with. I'm haveing a little trouble with my passenger side one, most likely my fault since I probably screwed up one of the t-taps. Taking it into the shop to get it fixed soon. Here's some pics.

Here's the difference between the OEM lights on the left and the new P13W on the right.



Here's a night shot to show the practically unnoticeable color difference between the headlights/halos and the P13W bulb.

[SpkCamaro12]

For some reason, my DRL go out during the night. I have the harness but I dont know what the problem is. :-/ they look great tho!

[Powhusku]

Originally Posted by SpkCamaro12

For some reason, my DRL go out during the night. I have the harness but I dont know what the problem is. :-/ they look great tho!

Ask AAC. If its faulty product they'll probably exchange yours for a new one.

[Ivan @ Southwest Speed]

Originally Posted by Powhusku

Ask AAC. If its faulty product they'll probably exchange yours for a new one.

Absolutely! Lifetime Warranty.

Let me know if we can be of any help on this too. Wanna see folks enjoying these products!

Ivan

[Powhusku]

Okay, I found out what the problem was with the passenger side light.

First off, the tab on the P13W bulb was slightly too long to click in correctly, so I shaved a little off with a razor and now it fits perfectly and clicks into place. That was wahat was causing the light to not turn on at all before.

Second, the bridge wire was what was causing issues with getting the DRL lights and the halos to work together. I found that one of the T-tap connectors in the connection bridge wire was inccorectly installed. So I took off the one AAC put on there and installed one of my own that I picked up from Advanced Auto. If you need to do this you'll need a crimping tool to get it to fasten correctly to the bridge wire. After that the lights worked perfectly.

Third, as I read in two other threads, the light does not fit entirely snugly in the DRL housing. There is a very small amount of movement with the light inside the housing. I'm not sure if this causes any sort of potential for anything breaking, but I doubt anything will since the movement is not too much. I tried swapping AAC's o-rings with the OEM ones but that didn't change anything and the light still had the same amount of movement. I'm not really sure what to do to fix this. Hopefully AAC will come up with something. As far as I know the only solution to this problem was swapping the o-rings which didn't work. I guess I'll have to wait until AAC comes up with a solution.

Overall the lights seem to be built with some good craftsmanship and seem to be worth the money, but the harness seems like it was made a little half-assed, especially since the cost seems to out-weigh the actual product materials. I'm very happy with the overall look of the lights though. Glad I bought them! I'll try to get some detailed night shots tonight. Hope this helps anyone who is having issues.

[ibmrs]

If there is play in the bulb/housing as you indicate, the issue probably will be moisture over time. Very common on avalanches/tahoes you will see with one drl burned out.
Auto parts store should carry dialectric grease. Pull bulb, coat socket and bulb part that goes into socket with grease, reinsert. This will keep moisture out and still conduct electricity fine. Same stuff used in plug wires to keep them from sticking on solid over time. I did this to my truck, and haven't had any issues with bulbs burning out in 10yrs.

[Powhusku]

Originally Posted by ibmrs

If there is play in the bulb/housing as you indicate, the issue probably will be moisture over time. Very common on avalanches/tahoes you will see with one drl burned out.
Auto parts store should carry dialectric grease. Pull bulb, coat socket and bulb part that goes into socket with grease, reinsert. This will keep moisture out and still conduct electricity fine. Same stuff used in plug wires to keep them from sticking on solid over time. I did this to my truck, and haven't had any issues with bulbs burning out in 10yrs.

Awesome! Thanks for the helpful info. I'm going to go get some today!

[Powhusku]

Originally Posted by AACstyle

We posted a fix that we have tested and works very well: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=801

We hate asking people to modify anything to make these work but this slipped by us and we are terribly sorry. We accept full responsibility for missing this and deeply apologize to everyone.

Thanks for getting on top of the problem so fast. Thats some good customer service. I'll head over to autozone and get some shrink tube tomorrow. I'll probably get some dialectric grease as well just to be safe.

[Powhusku]

Okay, just finished up getting night shots. The lights do look a little blue but my guess is that will wear off over time as AAC has stated with their previous lights.

Night/Heatlights:



Day/Running Lights









(Yes I know the lights are dirty)

[mrdth]

Originally Posted by AACstyle

We posted a fix that we have tested and works very well: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=801

We hate asking people to modify anything to make these work but this slipped by us and we are terribly sorry. We accept full responsibility for missing this and deeply apologize to everyone.

Are these being modified (fixed) now before shipping or do customers need to do it.
Even better are they going to be redesigned.

[Msmall143]

Has anyone had issues after doing this. I upgraded mine an got a check engine light for some type of module loosing power. Dealership could t duplicate the error but said its probably tied back to the aftermarket light

Posting here as well

Hi guys,

Yesterday I just started driving and recieved a warning along the lines of "check power something", I pulled over to have a look and turned the car off. I then went to restart and the check engine light came on and multiple warning flashed. It basically looked like it was prompting me through every warning. Again I turned car off. It then wouldn't start for a couple minutes.

It now starts and runs fine with no engine light.

I took it to the dealer this morning and was told they detected there was loss of communication to the BCM.

They told me this was likely do to the upgraded plasma drl's I had installed. I also have the harness that connects the drl to the halos so that they can both be on at the same time.

I'm curious if anyone else has bad issues? And if anyone bag is more knowledgable than me can way in.

Can switching to plasma bulbs and a simple wiring splice to power them cause the bcm to looses communication and then throw on these warnings?

Is it possible the car wasn't starting because the bcm was rebooting?

I just don't want the dealer to point at these drl's and miss something bigger.

FYI...this is a 2013 2ss 1le. The bulbs I bought from phasetek.

Hopefully I get some feedback here

Thanks