10-19-2016, 01:53 PM | #1 |
Next mod / setup advice (suspension)
Recently added an ADM LSA conversion to my GPI SS1 cammed 2014
Car has a BMR 1" drop - Rear tires are 305/35/20 Pirelli P Zero's on 10" wheels. The amount of torque on hand is "impressive" The car is fun to drive but, but you have to drive it! With just the cam. It was a brainless act. With the LSA you had better not hammer down. The car breaks loose way to easy and on shifts seems to have a rear sideways jump. I am looking at BMR Toe Rods... Trailing arms... and Cradle bushings. I feel like alot of the problem is I also need the Posi mod... ( I keep bouncing back and forth between the mod, and a ZL1 rear end. I keep thinking the money I spend on the mod could partially offset a used ZL1 Cradle The car is my wife's daily driver... will likely never see the track or strip. Also shopping for my next set of tires... I need an all season (Oklahoma) that has a little stick - Besides if the tires grab too much I will need new axles. Currently the car is alligned at factory spec. I know an alignment will help things alot... but my tire wear is perfect now. Opinions???
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2014 L99 2SS. 595HP/571ft-lbs
Mods: LSA Conversion 2.5" Upper Pulley, 65# injectors, GPI SS1 Cam, SP Long Tubes, ADM Race Scoop & CAI, NPP exhaust (DIY control), BMR 1" lowering springs, ZL1 Rear Differential / Axles, CF Side Strip / Hood Spear, Tint - Windows / Tails / Sidemarkers, Splash Guards, ADM Boost Gauge, ABL Dashkit, '68 Script Badges, ACS T4 Splitter, ZL1 Rockers from Gary's, Z28 Spoiler, Carbon Fiber Hood Vent, Summer - MRR FS01 Satin Black (10" Front 11" Rear) Winter, pictured-Drag DR 64's Satin Black (9" Front-10" Rear.) |
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10-19-2016, 04:17 PM | #2 |
Drives: Race Car Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Seffner, FL
Posts: 6,226
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What are doing for Lower Control Arms? As you lower the vehicle, the Camber gets out of whack. Our TCA028's are a different length to correct the Camber. When you do this you will also need Adjustable Toe Rods. Cradle Bushings, I would do our Pro Version Full Polys.
On another note, since this is your wife's car and it seems pretty stout, driver training for her and yourself would make a great Christmas Gift! |
10-19-2016, 05:54 PM | #3 | |
'It's an experiment'
Drives: [COTW 2/09/15] '11 GPI LSA SC Z/LE Join Date: May 2014
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 8,694
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Quote:
Now that the hijack is over ;o), agree with alignment but, trailing arms/bushings, toe rods would be a big help first. Cradle bushings would be next -- I personally like the solids -- I did have the BMR, but felt it moved too much. Upper Control arm bushings would be after that... I've done them all -- and now found I needed to do the diff bushings after racing at NCM. Sometimes, its best to save up and do these all at 'once' then, get the alignment. -Don
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747 RWHP 794 RWTQ
"Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races." - Enzo Ferrari See My Build: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=385577 |
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10-20-2016, 09:03 AM | #4 | |
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Exactly the information I was wanting... Adjustable or Not. I know the 1" drop makes it borderline on needing the adjustable links.
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2014 L99 2SS. 595HP/571ft-lbs
Mods: LSA Conversion 2.5" Upper Pulley, 65# injectors, GPI SS1 Cam, SP Long Tubes, ADM Race Scoop & CAI, NPP exhaust (DIY control), BMR 1" lowering springs, ZL1 Rear Differential / Axles, CF Side Strip / Hood Spear, Tint - Windows / Tails / Sidemarkers, Splash Guards, ADM Boost Gauge, ABL Dashkit, '68 Script Badges, ACS T4 Splitter, ZL1 Rockers from Gary's, Z28 Spoiler, Carbon Fiber Hood Vent, Summer - MRR FS01 Satin Black (10" Front 11" Rear) Winter, pictured-Drag DR 64's Satin Black (9" Front-10" Rear.) |
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10-20-2016, 11:42 AM | #5 | |
Drives: Race Car Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Seffner, FL
Posts: 6,226
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Quote:
On the Toe Rods, you are Borderline! |
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10-27-2016, 10:29 AM | #6 |
Are the stock ZL1 (2013 ) Toe Rods and trailing arms an upgrade over the SS parts?
I have decided to go with a ZL1 Differential and Axles. Didn't know if they other parts would be an upgrade (for the time being) over what I have or not. The price would be minimal compared to adjustable (Future upgrade.) Thoughts on the ZL1 sway bar?
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2014 L99 2SS. 595HP/571ft-lbs
Mods: LSA Conversion 2.5" Upper Pulley, 65# injectors, GPI SS1 Cam, SP Long Tubes, ADM Race Scoop & CAI, NPP exhaust (DIY control), BMR 1" lowering springs, ZL1 Rear Differential / Axles, CF Side Strip / Hood Spear, Tint - Windows / Tails / Sidemarkers, Splash Guards, ADM Boost Gauge, ABL Dashkit, '68 Script Badges, ACS T4 Splitter, ZL1 Rockers from Gary's, Z28 Spoiler, Carbon Fiber Hood Vent, Summer - MRR FS01 Satin Black (10" Front 11" Rear) Winter, pictured-Drag DR 64's Satin Black (9" Front-10" Rear.) |
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10-27-2016, 11:05 AM | #7 |
Too much is never enough!
Drives: AGP TT SS [COTW] 4/20/15 Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Toledo,OH
Posts: 4,149
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Honestly until you get proper tires on it, your wasting your money. Get some DR's or smaller wheels.
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AGP TT kit, 54/57 Forged rotating assembly, Custom grind cam... Dual nozzle meth, ID850's, Livernois dual fuel pumps, ECS BAP, 25% UDP, 3 inch Magnaflow catback with X pipe, Mantic 9000 clutch, DSS 1000hp axles, DSS aluminum driveshaft, ZL1 rear end, solid subframe bushings, HE differential offset bushings, BMR Trailing arm, BMR toe rods, Lingenfelter LNC-2000,SJM Line Lock. 747 whp 714wtq
Build thread http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...55#post8107855 |
10-27-2016, 12:32 PM | #8 |
Drives: 2011 Camaro 1SS Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Warner Robins Ga
Posts: 778
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I just had the same upgrade done as you. I also pieced together some suspension bits to the rear and couldnt be happier.
BMR LCA which you dont need since you already have FE4 BMR Toe rods BMR trailing arms ZL1 sway and end links(I have this for sale) DSS 1kHP axles ZL1 hubs Everything you need can be had brand new for 1400. Less if you browse the forum. And of course you need some grip.
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2011 SGM Camaro 1SS/RS A6 - Vengeance Racing built/tuned. 590RWHP/560RWTQ, ADM LSA Conversion, 2.5 Grip-Tec, ZL1 fuel pump, ADM FPCM, FIC1000, VRPD2 Cam and LS3 Conversion with all the internal goodies, American Racing 1 7/8 Headers, no cats, SW Retro Cat Back, ADM Intake, AFCO HX, Varimax Pump, Rotofab Reservoir, B&M Transmission Cooler, VMAX TB, Elite Engineering CC, BMR LCAs, Trailing Arms, Toe Rods, DSS 1000hp axles, ZL1 Bumper and Sideskirts, Night Owl Halos, Matte Black 20" Rohana RC-22 with 20x10-275s/20x11-315s, R1 Concept Premier Drilled/Slotted Rotors, Hawk Ceramic Pads.
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11-13-2016, 05:00 PM | #9 | |
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Solid Subframe mounts are on the way (I wanted to install at different times, just to be able to feel the difference in how the different parts made the car feel.) Next?? Remember this is a 2014 with FE4 Do I need TCA028? If so BMR's documentation about endlinks "seems" to be confusing and the first note **** may only apply to 2010 and 2011???? Also BMR TCA033 - I am not sure I wouldn't prefer Detroit Speeds DSE-042303 due to the polyurethane bushing vs a spherical bushing Finally BMR TR003 - due to maintenance I think I would prefer these over the TR004. And for that reason I have concerns about the above trailing arm... I am ignorant about the true maintenance and longevity of the spherical bushing. I am simply going off of the BMR Website information. So with the 2014 FE4 lowered 1" do I need or are Control arms highly recommended?
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2014 L99 2SS. 595HP/571ft-lbs
Mods: LSA Conversion 2.5" Upper Pulley, 65# injectors, GPI SS1 Cam, SP Long Tubes, ADM Race Scoop & CAI, NPP exhaust (DIY control), BMR 1" lowering springs, ZL1 Rear Differential / Axles, CF Side Strip / Hood Spear, Tint - Windows / Tails / Sidemarkers, Splash Guards, ADM Boost Gauge, ABL Dashkit, '68 Script Badges, ACS T4 Splitter, ZL1 Rockers from Gary's, Z28 Spoiler, Carbon Fiber Hood Vent, Summer - MRR FS01 Satin Black (10" Front 11" Rear) Winter, pictured-Drag DR 64's Satin Black (9" Front-10" Rear.) |
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11-14-2016, 10:59 AM | #10 | |
Too much is never enough!
Drives: AGP TT SS [COTW] 4/20/15 Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Toledo,OH
Posts: 4,149
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Quote:
__________________
AGP TT kit, 54/57 Forged rotating assembly, Custom grind cam... Dual nozzle meth, ID850's, Livernois dual fuel pumps, ECS BAP, 25% UDP, 3 inch Magnaflow catback with X pipe, Mantic 9000 clutch, DSS 1000hp axles, DSS aluminum driveshaft, ZL1 rear end, solid subframe bushings, HE differential offset bushings, BMR Trailing arm, BMR toe rods, Lingenfelter LNC-2000,SJM Line Lock. 747 whp 714wtq
Build thread http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...55#post8107855 |
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11-14-2016, 01:28 PM | #11 | |
Drives: Race Car Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Seffner, FL
Posts: 6,226
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Quote:
http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=p...576&superpro=0 |
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11-20-2016, 09:41 AM | #12 | |
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Looking at adjustable toe rods - TR003 Rear Trailing Arms and bushings (Non Adjustable) TCA026 Trying to decide on bolts vs control arms - TCA028 I have been looking at the article that superchevy did on a 2012 ZL1 and noticed they did not do the adjustable trailing arm, even with the new control arms... Thoughts??? I simply don't want to spend money on adjustability - If I don't need to adjust.
__________________
2014 L99 2SS. 595HP/571ft-lbs
Mods: LSA Conversion 2.5" Upper Pulley, 65# injectors, GPI SS1 Cam, SP Long Tubes, ADM Race Scoop & CAI, NPP exhaust (DIY control), BMR 1" lowering springs, ZL1 Rear Differential / Axles, CF Side Strip / Hood Spear, Tint - Windows / Tails / Sidemarkers, Splash Guards, ADM Boost Gauge, ABL Dashkit, '68 Script Badges, ACS T4 Splitter, ZL1 Rockers from Gary's, Z28 Spoiler, Carbon Fiber Hood Vent, Summer - MRR FS01 Satin Black (10" Front 11" Rear) Winter, pictured-Drag DR 64's Satin Black (9" Front-10" Rear.) |
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