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Old 06-10-2016, 07:52 AM   #603
xc_SS/RS


 
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What's the best, most performance and street oriented alignment that you can get on a mostly stock set up? Finally deciding to get an alignment done lol

Only things I have changed are a square 275/40/20 set up and zl1 sway bars front and rear. I've been looking at the caster blocks/adjustable bolts (eccentric?) in case the caster will really help.
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Z/28 intake, NW, FAST 102, speed engineering LT's, some exhaust, ATI -10% pulley, GM flex fuel injectors, DSX flex fuel sensor, MGW shifter, HP Tuners, some suspension work, stickers and a little weight loss. 12.63 @113.53

Last edited by xc_SS/RS; 06-10-2016 at 08:35 AM.
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Old 06-10-2016, 09:16 AM   #604
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norm Peterson View Post
I don't doubt that 0.24° works for more firmly bushed cars; that's not my question.

What I am trying to get at is the reason for changing the recommendation for aftermarket-bushed cars when it's not likely that the aftermarket bushings have been made softer in the meantime. The net end result is a lot clearer than the 'why' behind it.


Norm
That's it!

The 0.24 is TOTAL Toe IN for the rear on any car.

Rear Toe in 0.12 Per Side, Total Rear Toe IN 0.24

I knew if we kept talking what was not making sense to you would come out as we could clear it up.
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Old 06-10-2016, 09:35 AM   #605
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Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
The 0.24 is TOTAL Toe IN for the rear on any car.

Rear Toe in 0.12 Per Side, Total Rear Toe IN 0.24
I realize all that.

We aren't quite there yet. The note in red ↓↓↓ from "the book" (~0.12° total) disagrees with the recommendation given earlier in this thread where everything now uses 0.24° total. I'm trying to find out why that was changed. By PM if you'd rather.




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Old 06-10-2016, 09:36 AM   #606
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Old table that simply needs to be replaced.
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Old 06-10-2016, 04:25 PM   #607
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Old table that simply needs to be replaced.
Especially because it says the stock FE4 car should have less than a tenth of a degree of camber. lol
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Old 06-10-2016, 04:31 PM   #608
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Especially because it says the stock FE4 car should have less than a tenth of a degree of camber. lol
Good get!
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Old 06-13-2016, 02:18 PM   #609
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Alignment happening next Monday. What specs should I have the shop aim for? Street set up, spirited driving usually every day down some twisty roads. Looking for good tire wear as well. 275/40/20 all around on stock 9" wheels, ZL1 front and rear sway bars.

Advice for alignment specs?
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2010 2SS/RS
Z/28 intake, NW, FAST 102, speed engineering LT's, some exhaust, ATI -10% pulley, GM flex fuel injectors, DSX flex fuel sensor, MGW shifter, HP Tuners, some suspension work, stickers and a little weight loss. 12.63 @113.53
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Old 06-13-2016, 02:20 PM   #610
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Originally Posted by xc_SS/RS View Post
Alignment happening next Monday. What specs should I have the shop aim for? Street set up, spirited driving usually every day down some twisty roads. Looking for good tire wear as well. 275/40/20 all around on stock 9" wheels, ZL1 front and rear sway bars.

Advice for alignment specs?
Front Camber -1.00
Front Toe 0.00
Rear Camber -0.50
Rear Toe IN 0.12
Total Rear Toe IN 0.24
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Old 06-13-2016, 02:46 PM   #611
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Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
Front Camber -1.00
Front Toe 0.00
Rear Camber -0.50
Rear Toe IN 0.12
Total Rear Toe IN 0.24
Sweet, thanks JP! If I were to add castor locks myself down the line would that require any adjustments to the alignment or would it be ok to just add them?
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2010 2SS/RS
Z/28 intake, NW, FAST 102, speed engineering LT's, some exhaust, ATI -10% pulley, GM flex fuel injectors, DSX flex fuel sensor, MGW shifter, HP Tuners, some suspension work, stickers and a little weight loss. 12.63 @113.53
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Old 06-13-2016, 03:01 PM   #612
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Originally Posted by xc_SS/RS View Post
Sweet, thanks JP! If I were to add castor locks myself down the line would that require any adjustments to the alignment or would it be ok to just add them?
It will. As you pull the radius arms forward it will change toe.
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Old 06-13-2016, 04:17 PM   #613
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Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
It will. As you pull the radius arms forward it will change toe.
Interesting and good to know for future reference. Thanks again!
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Z/28 intake, NW, FAST 102, speed engineering LT's, some exhaust, ATI -10% pulley, GM flex fuel injectors, DSX flex fuel sensor, MGW shifter, HP Tuners, some suspension work, stickers and a little weight loss. 12.63 @113.53
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Old 06-17-2016, 05:07 PM   #614
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I'm at the shop now. They cannot get the rear driver's side camber at 0 and the toe in at .12 in. Over 3hours. Anyone have input if should compromise on the camber or toe. I was thinking the toe in less, say, at .09 per side. Any thoughts.
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Old 06-17-2016, 05:46 PM   #615
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Originally Posted by 1LEguy View Post
I'm at the shop now. They cannot get the rear driver's side camber at 0 and the toe in at .12 in. Over 3hours. Anyone have input if should compromise on the camber or toe. I was thinking the toe in less, say, at .09 per side. Any thoughts.
The toe and rear camber adjustment work against each other just like caster and toe in an A style control arm. There is limited adjustment range with the OE eccentric bolts, just under1 degree. If max negative camber is say -1.7 because the car has been lowered, the absolute best rear camber number would be -0.70. Because toe is involved, it may be a bit less.

The tech should set both the toe and camber eccentric to a neutral position, where the eccentric is not touching the adjustment 'fences'. Then the tech sets camber to the minimum achievable number and starts making the toe adjustment. What you get at that point, is the best you can get.

Unfortunately, there are a lot of techs that don't understand this. Your car may hav been adjusted as well as it can be adjusted with the factory eccentrics. I do make rear camber eccentrics that have a range of 2 degrees. For lowered cars, they are a necessity.

You can print this page and take it back to the shop. http://www.jpssonline.com/the-book-f...-2010-camaro-2

This is a link to the Black Magic Camber Bolts. http://www.jpssonline.com/#/jpss-bla...-caster-bolts/



Or you could make a #roaddtrip to JPSS
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Old 06-17-2016, 07:47 PM   #616
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
The toe and rear camber adjustment work against each other just like caster and toe in an A style control arm. There is limited adjustment range with the OE eccentric bolts, just under1 degree. If max negative camber is say -1.7 because the car has been lowered, the absolute best rear camber number would be -0.70. Because toe is involved, it may be a bit less.

The tech should set both the toe and camber eccentric to a neutral position, where the eccentric is not touching the adjustment 'fences'. Then the tech sets camber to the minimum achievable number and starts making the toe adjustment. What you get at that point, is the best you can get.

Unfortunately, there are a lot of techs that don't understand this. Your car may hav been adjusted as well as it can be adjusted with the factory eccentrics. I do make rear camber eccentrics that have a range of 2 degrees. For lowered cars, they are a necessity.

You can print this page and take it back to the shop. http://www.jpssonline.com/the-book-f...-2010-camaro-2

This is a link to the Black Magic Camber Bolts. http://www.jpssonline.com/#/jpss-bla...-caster-bolts/



Or you could make a #roaddtrip to JPSS
Thank you for the quick reply and help. Unfortunately, my phone battery died, so I was unable to pass this along. The car is all stock, except I do have new Factory Reproductions 20x10 23mm offset all-around on 285/35's for my street set. At the end when I went out he couldn't get camber in factory spec with the toe within factory spec and vice versa. I remember seeing - 1.5 camber with the toe in spec (I forget the value but it showed green). And I remember seeing -.6 camber (green in spec), but then the toe was like 2 degrees... They felt something was wrong and are going to flat bed the car to the dealer tomorrow morning. They said the rear passenger went to the settings (.12 toe in and 0 camber) easily and the both sides of front (0 toe and -1 camber) too. I'll pass the info along to them though. Thanks again.

And a road trip sounds like a great idea!
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