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Old 02-06-2011, 12:29 PM   #57
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Helpful Resources

- The following two books available at Amazon.com or your local Barnes & Noble.



Robert
Got these in the mail yesterday...
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Old 02-06-2011, 12:47 PM   #58
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Got these in the mail yesterday...
The content of these books may be somewhat "basic" for some folks that have been around these engines and cars in general but for someone who changed his oil for the first time this past year like myself they are a pretty good foundation and speak to almost every aspect of the long block.
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Old 02-07-2011, 03:30 AM   #59
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Simply awsome DIY. Been a mechanic for many years and never seen a anything better then your write up. It's people like you that make this site so great. Your an inspiration! thanks I would love to here your car run after you get it tuned.
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Old 02-07-2011, 12:45 PM   #60
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Very Nice! I'm sure it took a long time just to put this post together, let alone the actual procedure.
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Old 02-09-2011, 12:00 AM   #61
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The content of these books may be somewhat "basic" for some folks that have been around these engines and cars in general but for someone who changed his oil for the first time this past year like myself they are a pretty good foundation and speak to almost every aspect of the long block.
You are correct; there is a lot of basic information for someone like me who knows his way around an engine bay… That being said, it’s always nice to review… I will say there is a ton of information in these two books and would recommend them to even the most experienced DIY’fer. History of the LS, tables, charts and graphs; you name it, it’s in there………really nice to have. I’m halfway through the first one How to Rebuild GM LS-Series Engines, reading about a chapter a night. I figure I’ll read both of them cover to cover before I order and install my cam.
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Old 02-09-2011, 12:33 AM   #62
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Outstanding thread!!! Not to mention you had some very impressive photos to go along with it.
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Old 02-10-2011, 06:38 AM   #63
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Great write up! I just finished swapping out my cam and springs. I took my computer to the shop and pretty much justy followed along in your thread. Kind of like paint by numbers. lol. By the way, this was my first cam swap on any motor and I have to say it probably took me twice as long as installing my maggie. But like you said, if I had to do it again I could probably cut my time in half.

Just wanted to say thanks.
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Old 03-04-2011, 12:17 AM   #64
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Like some have said and it can't be said enough, WOW. I just got around to reading and watching the whole thing. Fantastic job. Thank you for doing this.

You detailed it in a way that makes me confident that I can do it. More involved than I had initially thought. When I get my cam I'll be all over this thread.

Question. How driveable was it before tuning? And with my maggie, do you think it will be ok to drive to the tuner? May depend on the cam, but say with a semi-aggresive one.
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Old 03-04-2011, 08:34 AM   #65
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I have to add my reply as the others have.

That is the best write-up I have ever seen, can't wait for your blower DIY.

You are very talented.

If I can ask, what is your day job?
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Old 03-04-2011, 08:36 AM   #66
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Originally Posted by PQ View Post
Like some have said and it can't be said enough, WOW. I just got around to reading and watching the whole thing. Fantastic job. Thank you for doing this.

You detailed it in a way that makes me confident that I can do it. More involved than I had initially thought. When I get my cam I'll be all over this thread.

Question. How driveable was it before tuning? And with my maggie, do you think it will be ok to drive to the tuner? May depend on the cam, but say with a semi-aggresive one.
Thanks PQ, knowing you did the Maggie install you should be able to work your way through this, especially since there aren't any hose decisions to make . Being you have an L99 I am not sure what else is involved if you are looking to convert to an LS3 when you do the cam, I am sure there are others that can chime in on that but I believe the lifters may have to be swapped as well (requires removing the heads). You may have the opportunity to add to the DIY here to point out any differences for a pure L99 swap or even an L99 to LS3 conversion. Thanks again.....
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Old 03-04-2011, 08:48 AM   #67
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I have to add my reply as the others have.

That is the best write-up I have ever seen, can't wait for your blower DIY.

You are very talented.

If I can ask, what is your day job?
Thanks very much for the compliment. My day job is Enterprise Systems Architecture and Infrastructure. I have spent the past 13 years designing and implementing large systems and part of that is documenting them in excruciating detail so I guess that shows itself in this thread. I absolutely HATE documenting things but when I do I try to be as thorough as possible to avoid having to do it again to clarify anything.
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Old 03-04-2011, 11:18 AM   #68
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Thank you, I have done more then my shear of cams But never in a LS motor so this will come in useful, Have the cam, all the GM parts, Springs on the way, Had a push rod checker at home and only need heads and time to do it, so thank you.
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Old 03-06-2011, 11:15 AM   #69
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I have a noob question about step 62. This is the step where you did the video about changing the #2 valve spring.

When you removed the seal, the valve seems do drop a little and sits on the piston (~1/8"?). Then you replaced the seal by hammering it with a 12mm deep socket down the valve shaft. When the seal hits the bottom of the shaft it is temporarily seated against the head, but when you later finish the spring install and decompress the spring, doesn't the seal come up the valve shaft ~1/8"? Do you need to push it down against the head again?
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Old 03-06-2011, 11:32 AM   #70
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I have a noob question about step 62. This is the step where you did the video about changing the #2 valve spring.

When you removed the seal, the valve seems do drop a little and sits on the piston (~1/8"?). Then you replaced the seal by hammering it with a 12mm deep socket down the valve shaft. When the seal hits the bottom of the shaft it is temporarily seated against the head, but when you later finish the spring install and decompress the spring, doesn't the seal come up the valve shaft ~1/8"? Do you need to push it down against the head again?
Once the valve seal is seated, it will not come back up on its own at any point. I hope I understand your question correctly. When the spring is installed and decompressed, the valve stem will come all the way back up from where it was resting on the top of the piston but since the valve stem is not "fixed" to the valve seal and slides in and out of it, the seal won't come up with the valve itself and will stay right where you initially seated it with the socket.

Let me know if this clears it up.
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