Heater Blend Door Hack

[George-CZ]

I listened to the advice of '10CamaroDude and will try to avoid breaking the door.
I have a model 2010 (2009), it could work there.

[InFiD3ViL]

If only we could get some CNC aluminum pieces made. Hell, even 3D printed using a tougher type of plastic. Of course a solution would be needed for the rubber/nitrile seal that is impregnated into the blend door, but I think that could be overcome.

There just has to be someone out there with the skill, tools, time, and $$$ to make an aftermarket replacement for this. Hell, even some sort of retrofit bracing would be helpful. I know I am likely talking out my ass here...

But I am seriously considering buying up a dozen of these doors to prepare for when GM inevitably discontinues them. Save 3 or 4 for me and any future 5th gens I will own and then sell the remaining to members here, at cost of course. I look at it like this...as long as there are 5th gens on the road this will always be a problem.

Originally Posted by Smitty CC

I don't have a scanner to set the actuators limits but understand there is a default setting when battery power is removed.

I do. I used my Tech2 clone and GM GDS2 to recalibrate the door when I replaced mine. I honestly don't think it has hard limits, as in I think the actuator itself could spin 360º if it was programmed to and the door wasn't installed. When I did the calibration it ran a test where it searches for physical resistance. In other words to find its position it cycles though what would be a 'close door' command and when it meets resistance (and the door stops) it sets that as its 'closed' position number. It does the same for the full open position, and then of course the BCM can determine the exact position where the door is located based on those two parameters. I hope I am explaining that clearly, as sometimes I have an issue putting this stuff into words.

Next time I get the laptop out and get GDS2 running on it, I will go through a calibration sequence and post it to YouTube with a link here so we can see exactly what is going on. If I remember correctly, GDS2 allows you to manually control each single 'step' of movement of the actuator/door, simulating changing temperature with the Climate Control knob. GDS2 is awesome like that and allows granular control of pretty much every module in the car for testing purposes. My son was amazed I could hit a key on the laptop and squirt washer fluid on command lol.

[George-CZ]

Originally Posted by InFiD3ViL

If only we could get some CNC aluminum pieces made. Hell, even 3D printed using a tougher type of plastic. Of course a solution would be needed for the rubber/nitrile seal that is impregnated into the blend door, but I think that could be overcome.

There just has to be someone out there with the skill, tools, time, and $$$ to make an aftermarket replacement for this. Hell, even some sort of retrofit bracing would be helpful. I know I am likely talking out my ass here...

But I am seriously considering buying up a dozen of these doors to prepare for when GM inevitably discontinues them. Save 3 or 4 for me and any future 5th gens I will own and then sell the remaining to members here, at cost of course. I look at it like this...as long as there are 5th gens on the road this will always be a problem.



I do. I used my Tech2 clone and GM GDS2 to recalibrate the door when I replaced mine. I honestly don't think it has hard limits, as in I think the actuator itself could spin 360º if it was programmed to and the door wasn't installed. When I did the calibration it ran a test where it searches for physical resistance. In other words to find its position it cycles though what would be a 'close door' command and when it meets resistance (and the door stops) it sets that as its 'closed' position number. It does the same for the full open position, and then of course the BCM can determine the exact position where the door is located based on those two parameters. I hope I am explaining that clearly, as sometimes I have an issue putting this stuff into words.

Next time I get the laptop out and get GDS2 running on it, I will go through a calibration sequence and post it to YouTube with a link here so we can see exactly what is going on. If I remember correctly, GDS2 allows you to manually control each single 'step' of movement of the actuator/door, simulating changing temperature with the Climate Control knob. GDS2 is awesome like that and allows granular control of pretty much every module in the car for testing purposes. My son was amazed I could hit a key on the laptop and squirt washer fluid on command lol.

If I has the entire heating core outside and the broken door in my hand, we're pretty sure I don't want any of the dozen you're talking about.
I would take the broken door as a template, go to my friend's metal shop, give it to him and stainless steel, please. And he make new door.

And the problem has been solved forever.

[ariZona28]

It's that time of the year. Going to crawl under the dash and disconnect my actuator in the "nearly" full cold position. Also bumping this thread for another member.

[AlanRubin]

Yep,put near full cold, then pull the plug.

If you loosen the bolts, take them out but leave one in, move the dial till you see the
motor starts to twist, back off till straight, put the bolts back in, then pull the plug.

[Rob3D]

I’ve read this thread three times, it’s fantastic information! But before I start tearing shit up...I’m still trying to properly diagnose my issue. I’ve been trying get to the bottom of this for a couple of years now. I’ll explain it in detail.

The A/C runs fine, very cold. At an undetermined point in time the airflow greatly reduces and the air is slightly cool. I turn off the HVAC and run the 2/60 A/C for about five minutes and turn it back on and the A/C runs fine.

It’s been serviced, plenty of coolant, compressor is fine and no abnormal frost on the lines.

Is this or is this not a blend door issue? TIA.

[LevonH]

Any progress on the Utube video suggested by Infid3vil?

[chevyz1]

Rob3D, Is this possibly the AC clutch kicking out? I have a similar issue on my GMC truck where the clearance of the clutch has gotten a little on the high side and can possibly be solved with the shim kit or taking out a shim so it stays engaged. If it happens in mine while driving, I can put in neutral and gas it a couple times to kinda jar the clutch or hit a bump in the road right, it will engage again. If the clutch isn't staying engaged while you are sitting still and can reach down carefully and give the clutch a little tap with something it should engage if it isn't a pressure switch issue. You can pick up one of those shim kits at any auto parts stores if you need.

[Rob3D]

Originally Posted by chevyz1

Rob3D, Is this possibly the AC clutch kicking out? I have a similar issue on my GMC truck where the clearance of the clutch has gotten a little on the high side and can possibly be solved with the shim kit or taking out a shim so it stays engaged. If it happens in mine while driving, I can put in neutral and gas it a couple times to kinda jar the clutch or hit a bump in the road right, it will engage again. If the clutch isn't staying engaged while you are sitting still and can reach down carefully and give the clutch a little tap with something it should engage if it isn't a pressure switch issue. You can pick up one of those shim kits at any auto parts stores if you need.

I’ll start that diagnosis right away. It just takes weeks to repeat the symptoms to check to see what’s up.. lol

[gtstorey]

Originally Posted by Rob3D

I’ve read this thread three times, it’s fantastic information! But before I start tearing shit up...I’m still trying to properly diagnose my issue. I’ve been trying get to the bottom of this for a couple of years now. I’ll explain it in detail.

The A/C runs fine, very cold. At an undetermined point in time the airflow greatly reduces and the air is slightly cool. I turn off the HVAC and run the 2/60 A/C for about five minutes and turn it back on and the A/C runs fine.

It’s been serviced, plenty of coolant, compressor is fine and no abnormal frost on the lines.

Is this or is this not a blend door issue? TIA.

It sounds like your condenser may be freezing over. Might be a problem with your expansion valve. I don't think the blend door problems causes the reducing air flow.

[Rob3D]

Originally Posted by gtstorey

It sounds like your condenser may be freezing over. Might be a problem with your expansion valve. I don't think the blend door problems causes the reducing air flow.

I thought that also, I had it checked and it was fine, not to say that ain’t the problem. I’ve had this issue going on four years and can not find the solution...it’s crazy.

[Wizard1183]

Originally Posted by George-CZ

If I has the entire heating core outside and the broken door in my hand, we're pretty sure I don't want any of the dozen you're talking about.
I would take the broken door as a template, go to my friend's metal shop, give it to him and stainless steel, please. And he make new door.

And the problem has been solved forever.

Why not make a carbon fiber door? Pretty sure it wouldn’t be that difficult.

[imaSSnake]

Originally Posted by camguynj

How is your dash now that's it's all put together?

Originally Posted by Moto-Mojo

I wonder too. Has anyone complained of multiple rattles?

They did a great job and I didn't notice any new rattles. I was impressed, rattling in a car bothers the hell out of me

[George-CZ]

Originally Posted by Wizard1183

Why not make a carbon fiber door? Pretty sure it wouldn’t be that difficult.

It probably wouldn't be hard.
But it's easier for me to reach for a piece of thicker sheet metal into scrap metal and let the CNC machine do its job.