Removing 6x9's keeping the back up sensor audio???

[IBM/2SS/RS/LS3]

Planning a small system and wondering if anyone has kept their back up sensor audio while ditching the 6x9's.


I'm going with a 5 speaker set up (6.5 /tweeter front w/ 10" sub) and trying to keep the back up sensor audio as well. I'm thinking about going with some tweets on the rear deck connected to relays activated by the reverse sense wire or back up lights. That way the only time the tweets will come on is when the car gets put into reverse. I might use the center channel otherwise I'd hook into it.

Anyone else come up with anything???? And yes, I've done a and nada..

[the barber]

I'm pretty sure it would work as long as the tweets are wired into the right signal coming in the rear 6x9s have 2 signals coming in a low and I guess a reg idk which one it would b but I'm guessing not the low level

[IBM/2SS/RS/LS3]

anyone else?

[octavio1207]

So, I actually did the switch and lost the beeping sound to the back-up sensor? Is it a wiring issue or does the actual sound come from the speakers or tweeters?

[JimE]

disregard

[Wuiquen]

U keeling stock radio?? Just wondering cuz I dont know of a way to keep just the backup sensors with no sound playing at all time.. but I used metra kit and bypass the back amp and keep my chimes and back up sensors playing on the middle speaker.

[octavio1207]

Originally Posted by Wuiquen

U keeling stock radio?? Just wondering cuz I dont know of a way to keep just the backup sensors with no sound playing at all time.. but I used metra kit and bypass the back amp and keep my chimes and back up sensors playing on the middle speaker.

I kept the factory radio but I just can't get that back up beep do you have the part number that you use a really appreciate it thanks

[IBM/2SS/RS/LS3]

Originally Posted by Wuiquen

U keeling stock radio?? Just wondering cuz I dont know of a way to keep just the backup sensors with no sound playing at all time.. but I used metra kit and bypass the back amp and keep my chimes and back up sensors playing on the middle speaker.

I'm keeping the factory radio and thinking about cutting the cone on the 6x9 and using the bi-amped tweeter for the back up beep.

Where did you get the signal for the chimes and back up sensor???

[Steve@Subthump]

The backup sensor is a high frequency tone that is played thru the tweeters only. So if you change to aftermarkets but don't utilize both sets of the speaker wires (mids and tweets) at the speaker, then you will be missing those higher frequencies. Changing out the amp is the easiest solution because that combines all the rear high and low signals into one channel per side. The only other thing I could see that would work is breaking each speaker out into two sections by modifying each one so the tweeter and mid are fed separately and not jointly. In other words, clip the tweeter wires on the speaker and run them directly to the tweeter wires and run the mid off the mid set of wires.

[IBM/2SS/RS/LS3]

I'm going with an Illusion Audio Carbon C6 up front with an Audiomobile Elite 8" in the spare well and want to retain the 6x9's so it looks factory and cut out the cone so the bass comes thru the rear deck but keep the tweets **just** for the back up sensor.

So, it sounds like the signal is introduced in-line (high level) somewhere since it's retained if you switch either a deck or amp????

[Steve@Subthump]

It's separated in the amp.

[IBM/2SS/RS/LS3]

So if you ditch the factory amp you lose the sensors??

[Steve@Subthump]

No not at all. The radio has four channels of full-range signal that it sends to the rear to be amplified. The amp then amplifies and actually splits those four channels into 7 channels and applies filters internally as needed. I think this is what's confusing you because the amp is making extra channels. Three in the front and four in the rear. They are front doors (L&R), front center, left rear tweeter, left rear mid, right rear tweeter, right rear mid.

The backup chime is simply a higher frequency tone that is mixed into the rear audio input signal. But it gets filtered in the amp and sent with high frequencies to the tweeters on a separate feed. Think of the rears speakers as a component set if you will. If you clip the tweeter wires and yank them out, then poof you lose the backup tone (and other highs). But it's only because the amp is acting like a crossover. And if you wire new speakers to the midrange wires, then naturally you won't get the higher freqencies--unless you have a speaker attached to both of those sets of wires.

So when you ditch the boston amp, you are now back to amplifying the four full-range inputs and making four outputs (two for the front and two for the rear). The aftermarket amp amplifies the entire signal. So it actually becomes a lot easier to replace the rears with aftermarkets (if you replace the amp first using our fark) because they are fed with a single channel of full-range input instead of two at different frequencies (ie two wires each instead of four). You then rely on the little filter onboard your 2-way speaker to cut the bass away from the tweeter portion.

This is why when we developed the x2a harness for our fark, we had to build a harness that would take one full range channel and interface the two portions of each boston rear speaker. Without that harness in-between, it would be impossible. What we did was split two wires into four with a filter on the tweeter feed (same pricipal as how a 2-way speaker works). So our harness basically converts the boston separate into a full-range speaker. Then, for the guys that want to replace the boston rears, they simply cut the two wires on our x2a harness and wire that directly to the new aftermarket speaker. Since it's full-range directly from the amp, everything functions perfectly.

[IBM/2SS/RS/LS3]

Thanks Steve! The only thing that confused me was where the sensor signal was intoduced.

As long as it plays well with the Mosconi 4to6