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Old 08-13-2019, 06:21 AM   #29
Chris49066SS

 
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Drives: 2010 SS L99
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: TN
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Originally Posted by StingrayblueSS View Post
I think he just put everything back to factory spec's
So before my camber bolts from BMR, the closest I could get to zero camber was -.5 trying to get a good drag alignment. But I am not lowered. With the bolts, I got down to -.1 which is perfect because on the launch, its pretty much zeroed, and I have a .24 total toe IN, .12 on each side, based on Justice Pete's recommendation. It works pretty well, too
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Old 08-13-2019, 09:09 AM   #30
gm2376

 
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Drives: 2010 Black 2ss Camaro SS
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Originally Posted by StingrayblueSS View Post
I have 1" bmr lowering springs and don't have those lower control arms. I had it professionally aligned after. Are they really necessary?
not necessary....but if you ever want to put on some 17inch welds and some drag radial, the wheels will rub unless you swap them out.
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Old 08-23-2019, 09:38 PM   #31
Mouse330
 
Drives: 2011 2SS, 2006 GMC Sierra
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Originally Posted by Black_SS10 View Post
A sway bar does nothing for straight line traction. For drag racing many disconnect or remove the rear sway bar. Like others have said, solid subframe bushings, toe arms, and maybe even add some trailing arms. These will help control wheel hop. Also, an alignment with help maximize the tire contact patch.
You are wrong sir!
I have raced in NHRA stock eliminator and super stock and the rear stabilizer bar is used exclusively in these classes which is the classes that are the closest to the street strip cars run. Very important to the drag race car. Cars that are running 1.3-1.4 60 foot times and running in the 9s run a rear sway bar
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