10-06-2010, 05:47 PM | #1 |
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Pinning the crank
Hey guys,
I'm thinking about a sc install and may do it myself to save money. I have read several threads discussing "pinning the crank", but have no idea what that is. Can someone please give me an idea of why this is done and exactly how it is done? If it is something that is easily screwed up, I may pass on installing myself. Thanks.
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8.165 @ 86.52 Bone Stock 1/8 mile 11.189 @ 124.44 on a 1.73 60' TVS2300 3.4 pulley, JRE tuned, Kooks LT headers and HF cats, MBRP catback exhaust, CAI intake, ADM scoop. Stock wheels/tires. Sold |
10-06-2010, 06:02 PM | #2 |
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Basically youre going to drill a hole into the crank and insert a 1/4" pin that keeps the crank pulley from spinning on the hub under quick acceleration. I cant think of anyway to really screw it up offhand. Most kits come with a drill guide. Its held in place inside of the hub and then you either remove the radiator and use a regular drill or get a right angle drill and leave the radiator in.
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10-06-2010, 06:35 PM | #3 |
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Doesn't sound too complicated. No other way to keep the crank pulley from spinning, I guess.
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12.618 @ 110.75 Bone Stock 1/4 mile
8.165 @ 86.52 Bone Stock 1/8 mile 11.189 @ 124.44 on a 1.73 60' TVS2300 3.4 pulley, JRE tuned, Kooks LT headers and HF cats, MBRP catback exhaust, CAI intake, ADM scoop. Stock wheels/tires. Sold |
10-06-2010, 07:55 PM | #4 |
Choke on that causality!
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Remember to lubricate the drill bit. It heats up and binds quickly.
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10-06-2010, 09:01 PM | #5 |
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It's easy. you get the drill guide a drill bit marked to the depth you need to go to. I also painted the bit red to ensure I didnt go deeper than required. a reamer and thn you tap the pin in DONE. all you need to do is remove the fans if you have a right angle drill.
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10-06-2010, 10:56 PM | #6 | |
Drives: 2010 SS RS Join Date: Apr 2009
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Quote:
If precision required, I would think removing the radiator and having more room would be better than using a 90* drill from above. |
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10-07-2010, 12:30 AM | #7 | |
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Quote:
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Vortech YSI - 10Rib CTS-V Dual Fuel Pumps American Racing Headers Thunder Racing Cam Walker Bullet Exhaust DSS 1400hp Axles Barton Industries Shifter ADM Boost/AFR Gauges |
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10-07-2010, 12:58 AM | #8 |
Drives: 2005 Holden Monaro Join Date: Mar 2010
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There are two different types of pinning kits in the LS world.
One goes in the front of the crank under the crank bolt, one goes into the side of the pulley - make sure you choose the proper one for your application.
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Arthur DesertMuscleLV.net - Las Vegas, NV 2005 Pontiac GTO | PBM/Black | 364ci LS2 | TVS1900 | T56 | 661 RWHP / 636 RWTQ 2003 Cobra | Redfire/Parchment | 376ci LS3 | PT4780 | TH400 | Build in Progress |
10-07-2010, 06:46 AM | #9 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Oklahoma
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My questions is how do you line the pin bore back up if you later remove the damper for lets say a cam change?
Even a thousandth off and you won't be able to put the pin back in. |
10-07-2010, 07:52 AM | #10 |
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10-07-2010, 09:46 AM | #11 |
How about some pictures Here is one I did on an LS1 I installed in my 240 SX.
Pin kits, can be had from multiple places and are inclueded in most kits It is very hard to mess this process up, just make certain to drill at a straight angle and you will have no issues. This process of pinning the crank will prevent the factory dampner from spinning on the crank snout and allowing the balancer bolt to walk out along with the balancer. It is required due to the press fit OE balancer on all high torque applications (at least at our shop it is required). Regards |
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10-07-2010, 10:31 AM | #12 |
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Here are a couple more pictures,
1st the Magna Charger pin kit. 2nd the only picture I remembered to take during my install. |
10-07-2010, 10:33 AM | #13 |
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10-07-2010, 11:59 AM | #14 |
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