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Old 06-18-2015, 01:06 PM   #1
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Any Tips - first run at polishing tomorrow

Going to be polishing up the green machine tomorrow to get out all the fine swirls from the prior owner/dealer cleanings. They are all fairly light swirls, but it'll make me feel better.

I'll be using a Porter Cable 7424 with a chemical guys blue pad (light polishing) and M205. The M105/205 combo seemed completely unnecessary since there are no deeper gouges in the paint at all, just light that can really only be seen in the correct lighting.

I plan on following up with Chemical Guys JetSeal sealant - heard a few good things about it from a friend, and topping it off with a 100% carnuba wax.

Process is going to be:
Rinseless Wash with ONR (love living in an apartment complex)
Clay Bar
M205 w/ blue pad
Rinseless Wash to clear off any polishing residue
Jet Seal (2 coats)
Carnuba

I have heard of some people taping stuff off, and others never mention it. What would I tape off? just window trim/door handles? Any specific angles or areas on the car you think should be marked off? Any other tips or tricks I should be aware of?
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Old 06-18-2015, 01:10 PM   #2
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Just my opinion. I Tape off all plastic and rubber trim. Cause my plastic and rubber sealant reacts to wax leave a white haze. When you clay use a lot of lubricant to avoid marring. Good luck!!
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Old 06-18-2015, 01:51 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastMode View Post
Going to be polishing up the green machine tomorrow to get out all the fine swirls from the prior owner/dealer cleanings. They are all fairly light swirls, but it'll make me feel better.

I'll be using a Porter Cable 7424 with a chemical guys blue pad (light polishing) and M205. The M105/205 combo seemed completely unnecessary since there are no deeper gouges in the paint at all, just light that can really only be seen in the correct lighting.

I plan on following up with Chemical Guys JetSeal sealant - heard a few good things about it from a friend, and topping it off with a 100% carnuba wax.

Process is going to be:
Rinseless Wash with ONR (love living in an apartment complex)
Clay Bar
M205 w/ blue pad
Rinseless Wash to clear off any polishing residue
Jet Seal (2 coats)
Carnuba

I have heard of some people taping stuff off, and others never mention it. What would I tape off? just window trim/door handles? Any specific angles or areas on the car you think should be marked off? Any other tips or tricks I should be aware of?
How would you be able to look at a car's swirls/scratches and determine if it just needs a light polishing if you have never polished before?

If you don't see correction you will have to step up to 105 and a heavier pad. Make sure you are going slow enough for the polish to work.

Tape off plastic trim pieces to make polishing near those areas easier in the long run.

Never polish in direct sun light.

Have a few beers on hand also.
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Old 06-18-2015, 02:21 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by JTruck View Post
How would you be able to look at a car's swirls/scratches and determine if it just needs a light polishing if you have never polished before?
The magic of the interwebs :-p. I am basing it off of what I have seen people do on autogeek and what they accomplished with M205, hard to tell with pictures though, so we will see what happens. Car has seen very little use and has been parked most of its life (2011 with 6000 miles, 3500 of those miles were in the last 3 months) If it doesn't go as intended, then I'll definitely just have to step it up as you indicated.

Thanks for the other tips as well!
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Old 06-18-2015, 03:26 PM   #5
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ONR contains polymers which bond to the surface. I'd use an IPA mix after the clay bar just to be sure to remove any ONR, Old wax or sealant the clay bar didn't remove, and clay lube that's left on the surface, the cleaner the surface is prior to polishing, the better the polish and pad will work.

Edit. I shouldn't have used the word "cleaner", Naked would be a better word, the clearcoat has nothing on it that will come between your polish and pad.

Wal mart sells 91% alcohol for around $2 a 16 oz bottle, mix with distilled water 50/50, they sell this for $1 a gallon. If you don't have a sprayer to put it in they also sell 32 oz sprayers for around $3.

I would pick a section that has the most swirls, do your Rinseless, Clay bar, IPA wipedown in only that section, and then polish just that section. If your results are satisfactory, continue. If not as already mentioned you'll need to go more aggressive. No sense to prep the whole car if the pad/polish isn't getting desired results.

I would drop the ONR before sealant and replace with IPA wipedown as well.

Last edited by Joe M 2012 2SS; 06-18-2015 at 03:36 PM.
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Old 06-18-2015, 03:28 PM   #6
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beer or advil before you begin. depending on your preference.
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Old 06-18-2015, 09:35 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Joe M 2012 2SS View Post
ONR contains polymers which bond to the surface. I'd use an IPA mix after the clay bar just to be sure to remove any ONR, Old wax or sealant the clay bar didn't remove, and clay lube that's left on the surface, the cleaner the surface is prior to polishing, the better the polish and pad will work.

Edit. I shouldn't have used the word "cleaner", Naked would be a better word, the clearcoat has nothing on it that will come between your polish and pad.

Wal mart sells 91% alcohol for around $2 a 16 oz bottle, mix with distilled water 50/50, they sell this for $1 a gallon. If you don't have a sprayer to put it in they also sell 32 oz sprayers for around $3.

I would pick a section that has the most swirls, do your Rinseless, Clay bar, IPA wipedown in only that section, and then polish just that section. If your results are satisfactory, continue. If not as already mentioned you'll need to go more aggressive. No sense to prep the whole car if the pad/polish isn't getting desired results.

I would drop the ONR before sealant and replace with IPA wipedown as well.
Thanks for the tips! Good point on the ONR containing polymers
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Old 06-19-2015, 12:20 AM   #8
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FYI, when using a machine to polish, be very careful of the edges as you could burn through your clear coat and paint.
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Old 06-19-2015, 06:56 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe M 2012 2SS View Post
ONR contains polymers which bond to the surface. I'd use an IPA mix after the clay bar just to be sure to remove any ONR, Old wax or sealant the clay bar didn't remove, and clay lube that's left on the surface, the cleaner the surface is prior to polishing, the better the polish and pad will work.

Edit. I shouldn't have used the word "cleaner", Naked would be a better word, the clearcoat has nothing on it that will come between your polish and pad.

Wal mart sells 91% alcohol for around $2 a 16 oz bottle, mix with distilled water 50/50, they sell this for $1 a gallon. If you don't have a sprayer to put it in they also sell 32 oz sprayers for around $3.

I would pick a section that has the most swirls, do your Rinseless, Clay bar, IPA wipedown in only that section, and then polish just that section. If your results are satisfactory, continue. If not as already mentioned you'll need to go more aggressive. No sense to prep the whole car if the pad/polish isn't getting desired results.

I would drop the ONR before sealant and replace with IPA wipedown as well.
I'm sorry Joe, but I really have to disagree here with you. After claying, using IPA is a waste of time. Skip it and go straight to polishing. Neither claying nor IPA will remove 100% of any wax or sealant on the surface, so don't even bother with IPA. It's an unnecessary extra step that adds time and complexity that isn't beneficial.
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Old 06-19-2015, 10:53 AM   #10
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After my first polish job I took note of everything I should have done differently and posted the list. You can give it a look here:
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=399000
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Old 06-19-2015, 04:04 PM   #11
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I'm sorry Joe, but I really have to disagree here with you. After claying, using IPA is a waste of time. Skip it and go straight to polishing. Neither claying nor IPA will remove 100% of any wax or sealant on the surface, so don't even bother with IPA. It's an unnecessary extra step that adds time and complexity that isn't beneficial.
I've seen Larry Kosilla (Ammo NYC), Kevin Brown, Matt (CD07), and several other professional detailers mention using this step either before polishing, or before your LSP.

I have always been curious of the actual benefit of it, as the only prior use of IPA for me was when I worked compounding creams and ointments. It was used for sanitization of blending tanks, pumps, hoses, packaging equipment, etc. after they had gone through a validated cleaning process. I'm sure being in Dental Medicine you are aware of the process of validation, I'm not sure car products or chemicals used to clean are actually put through the same process.

I have just used this based on recommendation of professional detailers. However I do trust your opinion, or in this case could be fact instead of conjecture. (Did you do a swab test or something similar on a panel wiped down with IPA that had wax/sealant on it to determine if it had been removed?)

I certainly wouldn't want to give anyone bad advice, but being so many pro's support this method, I figured it had to be beneficial. I have used it religiously, but I don't have any concrete proof (scientific testing) that it actually does what's suggested.

I also realize many supported Dawn wash for strip wash, and through your tests you were able to determine that it actually doesn't remove LSP's.

So if you have tested it, and have the proof that it does not remove sealants or wax, I'd remove it from my normal use before polishing, and before LSP.
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Old 06-19-2015, 04:13 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe M 2012 2SS View Post
I've seen Larry Kosilla (Ammo NYC), Kevin Brown, Matt (CD07), and several other professional detailers mention using this step either before polishing, or before your LSP.

I have always been curious of the actual benefit of it, as the only prior use of IPA for me was when I worked compounding creams and ointments. It was used for sanitization of blending tanks, pumps, hoses, packaging equipment, etc. after they had gone through a validated cleaning process. I'm sure being in Dental Medicine you are aware of the process of validation, I'm not sure car products or chemicals used to clean are actually put through the same process.

I have just used this based on recommendation of professional detailers. However I do trust your opinion, or in this case could be fact instead of conjecture. (Did you do a swab test or something similar on a panel wiped down with IPA that had wax/sealant on it to determine if it had been removed?)

I certainly wouldn't want to give anyone bad advice, but being so many pro's support this method, I figured it had to be beneficial. I have used it religiously, but I don't have any concrete proof (scientific testing) that it actually does what's suggested.

I also realize many supported Dawn wash for strip wash, and through your tests you were able to determine that it actually doesn't remove LSP's.

So if you have tested it, and have the proof that it does not remove sealants or wax, I'd remove it from my normal use before polishing, and before LSP.
I think it's a good idea to emulate great detailers like you mention, but in the detailing world everyone (including those guys) does stuff without necessarily testing the validity.

Also, I don't think it's bad advice, just unnecessary. It won't make a difference.

I have tested whether it removes wax or sealant and that answer is no, it does not. Is it possible that it removes a little from the surface, sure. But does it remove it all, the answer is no. IPA can not reasonably be used to clean a surface entirely of wax or sealant.
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Old 06-19-2015, 05:34 PM   #13
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I think it's a good idea to emulate great detailers like you mention, but in the detailing world everyone (including those guys) does stuff without necessarily testing the validity.

Also, I don't think it's bad advice, just unnecessary. It won't make a difference.

I have tested whether it removes wax or sealant and that answer is no, it does not. Is it possible that it removes a little from the surface, sure. But does it remove it all, the answer is no. IPA can not reasonably be used to clean a surface entirely of wax or sealant.

I do find it hard to believe that Larry Kosilla, who does all his own compounding for his line of products, his wife is also a chemist I believe, would advocate it's use as explained here at the 5:00 point of this video.



Also mentioned at the 7:42 point of this video of the Kevin Brown method, with Kevin Brown.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=10&v=QG65GC5LOzw
KB has been doing paint correction for 30 years now, and it's hard to believe he would do an "unnecessary" step.

Last edited by Joe M 2012 2SS; 06-19-2015 at 05:45 PM.
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Old 06-19-2015, 05:48 PM   #14
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Try not to use to much product.
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