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Old 07-06-2016, 08:41 AM   #127
jethrobandit
 
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Just put the 1LE version on my '13 and am surprised I could tell the difference. Took it through my favorite curvys around my house and it just felt more stout. Like the turn-in didn't fight me as much (rolling away from the turn). One of my favorite low-cost bolt-ons now.

The only thing that makes me sad is that I'm about out of bolt-ons I can do myself. Tempted to try headers, but that makes me nervous. No way am I attempting cam.
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Old 07-06-2016, 09:43 AM   #128
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The movement of the towers in a stock 5th Gen WITHOUT a sway bar IMPROVES turn in. The strut tower bar was first used to eliminate a resonance in the body that was making it difficult to final tune the MRC for the ZL1. On a road course without a cage in a normal weight 5th Gen, we prefer to run without the bar. The car corners better. When we fully cage a car, the increase in stiffness puts a much heavier load on the front towers. In that case we triangulate the towers.




You can read about the structural details of the 5th Gen here, including crash test videos. http://www.jpssonline.com/the-book-f...-2010-camaro-1
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Old 07-07-2016, 09:36 AM   #129
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With a 2011 SS I'm running 1LE Suspension with the ZL1 Sway Bar up front and rear cradle bushing inserts, and I have the Strut Tower Brace. Wondering with the setup mentioned if I'd be better off using the Strut Tower Brace or don't use it. Looking for the best setup for curvy roads and trackday. Don't have close curvy roads around here, so not the easiest to test. With stock setup I removed the Tower Brace because it made the front feel good, but the backend feel way loose.
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Old 07-07-2016, 09:41 AM   #130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RacerBX1 View Post
With a 2011 SS I'm running 1LE Suspension with the ZL1 Sway Bar up front and rear cradle bushing inserts, and I have the Strut Tower Brace. Wondering with the setup mentioned if I'd be better off using the Strut Tower Brace or don't use it. Looking for the best setup for curvy roads and trackday. Don't have close curvy roads around here, so not the easiest to test. With stock setup I removed the Tower Brace because it made the front feel good, but the backend feel way loose.
On your next track day this would be an awesome test.

Have a TRUSTED track rat buddy, remove the bar at some point during the day without your knowledge to create a blind test. Let's see if you can feel a difference.

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Old 05-21-2017, 07:33 PM   #131
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For those wondering, you can get the Brace to fit over the ZL1 Charger, you just need a couple washers
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Old 05-22-2017, 11:08 AM   #132
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For those wondering, you can get the Brace to fit over the ZL1 Charger, you just need a couple washers
.
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Old 05-24-2017, 07:44 AM   #133
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Originally Posted by Tcrock View Post
For those wondering, you can get the Brace to fit over the ZL1 Charger, you just need a couple washers
The strut tower brace was introduced for the ZL1 because there was a body resonance that interfered with data collection required for the MRC tuning.

There is NO documentation of any kind available that a strut tower bart improves cornering on a 5ht Gen. None.



Simons has discovered slipping suspension-member attachments and steering linkages sending false signals to the driver. Once, a race car’s control arm collapsed when subjected to normal cornering loads. His K&C machine has helped teams determine why one race car responds quickly to setup adjustments even as its identically constructed stablemate is a cranky handful. Simons adds that he’s never seen an aftermarket strut-tower brace provide a measurable handling benefit.

This article is spot on and in 100% agreement with our experience on the 5th Gen.

http://www.caranddriver.com/features...g-it-tech-dept

If you like the look of a strut tower bar, install one. If you want to improve handling, don't waste your money on a strut tower bar.
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Old 05-24-2017, 08:37 AM   #134
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My personal experience I drive 2 consecutive roundabouts on the way to work and home twice every day. I push my car very hard all the time and the best I could do before the strut bar was .89Gs. My very first time around the roundabout the next morning after the install on cold tires I hit .99Gs. It is repeatable. I don't give a crap what some article says. My personal experience
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Old 05-24-2017, 08:49 AM   #135
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Originally Posted by imaSSnake View Post
My personal experience I drive 2 consecutive roundabouts on the way to work and home twice every day. I push my car very hard all the time and the best I could do before the strut bar was .89Gs. My very first time around the roundabout the next morning after the install on cold tires I hit .99Gs. It is repeatable. I don't give a crap what some article says. My personal experience
We have blind tested this with professional drivers. The data we logged was virtually identical, though the drivers thought the car felt better on course without the bar. Unless your 5th Gen is fully caged and on slicks, a strut tower bar does nothing but look cool.

FYI -- I think we might know. We were the first to fit 305/30/19s on a 5th Gen Camaro back in 2009 (now found on the Z/28). We were the first to use a larger rear sway bar in relation to the front while everyone else was running fat fronts and skinny rear bars (now found on the 1LE, ZL1 and Z/28). The first to install hard inserts into the radius arms (now found on the Z/28). We were the first to use CTS-V brakes on the 5th Gen (now found on the ZL1). The first to introduce Caster locks for the 5th Gen. The only aftermarket parts on the 5th Gen Pace Cars at Milford, I installed.
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Old 05-24-2017, 10:53 AM   #136
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I've seen zero difference in handling with or without the STB including max g's nor MRC respond noticeably different, so it stays off for now. My .02.
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Old 07-14-2017, 09:19 AM   #137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
The strut tower brace was introduced for the ZL1 because there was a body resonance that interfered with data collection required for the MRC tuning.

There is NO documentation of any kind available that a strut tower bart improves cornering on a 5ht Gen. None.



Simons has discovered slipping suspension-member attachments and steering linkages sending false signals to the driver. Once, a race car’s control arm collapsed when subjected to normal cornering loads. His K&C machine has helped teams determine why one race car responds quickly to setup adjustments even as its identically constructed stablemate is a cranky handful. Simons adds that he’s never seen an aftermarket strut-tower brace provide a measurable handling benefit.

This article is spot on and in 100% agreement with our experience on the 5th Gen.

http://www.caranddriver.com/features...g-it-tech-dept

If you like the look of a strut tower bar, install one. If you want to improve handling, don't waste your money on a strut tower bar.
Interesting....

I liked the 4 point BMR, but after reading this, I think I'll pass.

So do you have a parts list of upgrades that'll make a 2010 SS handle better? At least like a 1LE?
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Old 07-23-2017, 01:27 PM   #138
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[QUOTE=spike III;9067612]
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Originally Posted by nyb071708 View Post

Here is the search for the adapter set up for having no hole in the strut towers. https://tpis.com/parts/view/267

Good luck
This link does not seem to be working.

Plus wondering the advantage of the ZL1 strut tower bar compared to the standard strut tower bar? I have a 2010 2LT/RS with the ZL1 appearance package and the ZL1 Strut Tower bar seems more fitting.
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Old 08-01-2017, 03:07 PM   #139
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Originally Posted by John_C View Post
Interesting....

I liked the 4 point BMR, but after reading this, I think I'll pass.

So do you have a parts list of upgrades that'll make a 2010 SS handle better? At least like a 1LE?
We can do better than a 1LE, we can get to the same level or atleastthisclose to the 2018 ZLE with a larger enough budget.

The 5th Gen OEM parts bin is deep. The outboard mounting rear sway bar introduced on the ZL1 is by far and away the best bang for the buck early 5th Gen upgrade. Nothing I can say would be an exaggeration. It requires new lower control arms and drop links, but other than that is a direct bolt on. The ZL1 and 1LE use a 28mm rear bar. Those are dirt cheap, $150 or less. My JPSS 32mm rear bar is THE bar.

The ZL1/1LE/Z/28 Toe Links with monoballs instead of rubber bushings are next in line for the rear suspension. These are direct bolt in as well.

Z/28 upper outer rear control arm bushings are next on the list. They are a pain to buy and install. If you buy them online, you have maybe a 50/50 chance of getting the right part. They come boxed with the right part number, but all too frequently they are left side in a right side box or left side in right side box or are just ordinary old SS bushing in the Z/28 box. We order then a dozen at a time and inspect them. We keep all the Z/28 upper rears we can get and just wait to find mates to make pairs

You can continue with Z/28 trailing arms and knuckles, but those are incremental gains by comparison.

Up front Z/28 radius armss come with a cast nylon snubber instead of the soft rubber that came with all other models. We go one better with billet aluminum inserts. Even Z/28 owners report improvement when installing JPSS Billet Inserts.

JPSS Caster Locks are cheap and increase caster by 1 degree with no adjustment ever required. Caste increases straight line stability and returns the wheels to center faster coming out of turns

Strut are next. 1LE struts are certainly a gain over SS with monotubes in the rear and improved more aggressive valving in the front twin tubes. There are a few cheap sets of coilovers available, but I have become a huge fan of the Bilstein B6 inverted monotubes for the 5th Gen. Unless you spend three to five times the money for top level coilovers, the B6 are the best bang for the buck.

I like the coil rates for the BMR andd DSE coils. They are almosst exactly the same, but BMR cold winds and DSE hot winds. OEM coils are hot wound and twice as expensive to make as cold wound. That is reflected in the coil pricing.

For upper front mounts, we are huge fans of SAI gain. JPSS SAI plates deliver a 3.5 degree increase in available camber. What you dial out at the knuckle becomes SAI gain. SAI is caster on steroids increasing straight line stability and returning the wheels to center coming out of turns.

Wheels we go to Forgeline for 19x11 fronts and 19x11.5 rears, the setup we first ran way back in 2009 that found its way to the Z/28 years later. Tires are 305/30/19 up to 325/30/19 all round with NO rubbing.

We can take you from bone stock to 2018 ZLE and are limited only by how fast you want to turn a corner and of course the budget. Many people could do just the JPSS rear bar upgrade with the billet inserts and a tight spec alignment and LOVE their 5th Gen like a new car. Thosse two modifications are worth their weight in gold.
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Old 08-10-2017, 04:09 PM   #140
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"We can take you from bone stock to 2018 ZLE and are limited only by how fast you want to turn a corner and of course the budget. Many people could do just the JPSS rear bar upgrade with the billet inserts and a tight spec alignment and LOVE their 5th Gen like a new car. Thosse two modifications are worth their weight in gold."

I did something similar to this on my Nissan altima 2 door and it was well worth the 400 Usd, it was like trading my car in on a more sporty race/track model. It felt 400 lbs lighter the way it just went whereever you pointed it with way less bodyroll.
This being a very diif car, I cant verify this will work the same on my 2015 v6 camaro.
Anyone already do this mod to their camaro?
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