Rear Brake size reduction

[YOLO Z/28]

Originally Posted by 4 FN 27

The best thing you can do for this issue is put a multi-disk clutch in with Base Pressure and Counterweight adjustability. You will also need a data logger showing the Engine RPM, Input Shaft RPM and Driveshaft RPM so you can see the splits (slippage) on the launch and gear changes.

This will allow you to slip the clutch on the launch and each gear change. Launch and Shift RPM is critical so a launch controller and shift light will help you be more consistent allowing the Base and Counter Weight to do their thing.

Next time you are at the track look at a Top Sportsman/Pro Mod/Pro Stock with a Clutch and ask if they will run through what each of these things will do. If you have any mechanical ability you will understand how to get a good handle on launch your Z cutting your 60 foots. .1 on the short end is worth .2 on the big end.

This is really good info! Thanks. I have already purchased HP tuners and I'm actually using the neutral rev limiter as the 2-Step/launch control. I will definitely look at a better clutch. I was going to have to swap the stock one out if I wanted to go more power anyways.

[Stephen12ZL1]

you will find that this car absolutely sucks at the drag strip or more appropriately, I suck at the drag strip in this car...leave the CCM's on the rear. Your track prep must be pristine as this thing wheel hops like crazy and feels as if it will break something.

[YOLO Z/28]

Originally Posted by Stephen12ZL1

you will find that this car absolutely sucks at the drag strip...leave the CCM's on the rear. Your track prep must be pristine as this thing wheel hops like crazy and feels as if it will break something.

She's been holding her own so far with no issues. I have never had the car wheel hop on me. My old 2006 GTO used to that bad. It either bogs on launch or blows the tires off.

I just had a bad experience on a new track Saturday that has me wondering what I can do to make the car more consistent. My first step is to try using the neutral rev limiter as a 2 Step, but setting it lower than 4k. if that turns out to be too much of a pain, I will buy a legit 2 Step module from LPE. once I have the launch RPM's steady, I can focus on pedal engagement consistency. If she still doesn't hold at lower RPM's, I will try the 345/30R19 NT05R's (tallest 19" DR on the market).

If that doesn't work, I am going to either:
A) try to get an aftermarket twin/triple disk clutch
B) go with a 305/35R20 (29" tall tire w/ approximately 5/8in taller side wall than the 325/30R19 I'm currently running)
or C) reduce the rear rotor down to a 14in, get a new bracket for the 4
pot brembo, and get a set of Race Star 95 Recluses in 18x10.5, running a 305/45R18 Drag radial Pro/slick tire

I have friends running 700+ whp on their cars (not Z28's obviously) dead hooking at 6000+RPM launches, all because they can run a good 300's/40'sR18 slick/drag radial and I can't. Even as the track prep went away, they could dead hook a 1.6X 60' and I went from 1.9's to 2.1's

I REALLY Don't want to do the brakes as that what really makes this car what it is, but I'm trying to get the car set up to be the best all around car.

[4 FN 27]

Originally Posted by '14RedHotZ

She's been holding her own so far with no issues. I have never had the car wheel hop on me. My old 2006 GTO used to that bad. It either bogs on launch or blows the tires off.

I just had a bad experience on a new track Saturday that has me wondering what I can do to make the car more consistent. My first step is to try using the neutral rev limiter as a 2 Step, but setting it lower than 4k. if that turns out to be too much of a pain, I will buy a legit 2 Step module from LPE. once I have the launch RPM's steady, I can focus on pedal engagement consistency. If she still doesn't hold at lower RPM's, I will try the 345/30R19 NT05R's (tallest 19" DR on the market).

If that doesn't work, I am going to either:
A) try to get an aftermarket twin/triple disk clutch
B) go with a 305/35R20 (29" tall tire w/ approximately 5/8in taller side wall than the 325/30R19 I'm currently running)
or C) reduce the rear rotor down to a 14in, get a new bracket for the 4
pot brembo, and get a set of Race Star 95 Recluses in 18x10.5, running a 305/45R18 Drag radial Pro/slick tire

I have friends running 700+ whp on their cars (not Z28's obviously) dead hooking at 6000+RPM launches, all because they can run a good 300's/40'sR18 slick/drag radial and I can't. Even as the track prep went away, they could dead hook a 1.6X 60' and I went from 1.9's to 2.1's

I REALLY Don't want to do the brakes as that what really makes this car what it is, but I'm trying to get the car set up to be the best all around car.

The triple disk will give you a little more forgiveness on the shift points. Basically a little bigger window than the double. Maintenance is critical. Keeping a good consistent disk surface is key.

The Double will be less maintenance.

We ran a Triple Titanium Clutch and put 3 new disks in every pass to keep it consistent. We had 120 disks in rotation and resurfaced them after one rotation. This kept them consistent in thickness which translated into less time to set-up the Air Space and Hat Height. The disk were matched in sets based on Hardness.

The Triple will not have the inertia effect that a double will but will allow the motor to RPM faster.

The Launch Controller should be wired by a an adjustable switch to the Clutch Pedal. This will allow the motor to go to full RPM at a predetermined "Air Space" as the clutch is released. My car it was .008 of an inch.

I wish I was closer...I love this kind of thing. Did it professionally for a numbers years.

[YOLO Z/28]

Originally Posted by 4 FN 27

The triple disk will give you a little more forgiveness on the shift points. Basically a little bigger window than the double. Maintenance is critical. Keeping a good consistent disk surface is key.

The Double will be less maintenance.

We ran a Triple Titanium Clutch and put 3 new disks in every pass to keep it consistent. We had 120 disks in rotation and resurfaced them after one rotation. This kept them consistent in thickness which translated into less time to set-up the Air Space and Hat Height. The disk were matched in sets based on Hardness.

The Triple will not have the inertia effect that a double will but will allow the motor to RPM faster.

The Launch Controller should be wired by a an adjustable switch to the Clutch Pedal. This will allow the motor to go to full RPM at a predetermined "Air Space" as the clutch is released. My car it was .008 of an inch.

I wish I was closer...I love this kind of thing. Did it professionally for a numbers years.

I wish you were closer!

Thanks again for all the knowledge!

[frenchsquared]

i believe a lot of the wheel hop is from the alignment. It you 0 the camber out, it should wheel hop less.

You can fit 18" wheels with the factory brakes. There are two guys in this forum running 18" forgelines.

[YOLO Z/28]

Originally Posted by frenchsquared

i believe a lot of the wheel hop is from the alignment. It you 0 the camber out, it should wheel hop less.

You can fit 18" wheels with the factory brakes. There are two guys in this forum running 18" forgelines.

I finally figured that out last night. Through my search on the C7Z06 forum, Forgeline and CCW make 18's that clear the brakes (same as on the C7 Z07 package). I placed an order for a Set of CCW' s this morning, but they're operating 12 weeks out.

And yes, you are correct about camber. I have mine factory adjusted to as close to 0 as I can get.

[JusticePete]

These will get you to ZERO nd then some.



Factory rear camber eccentrics have .90* of adjustment. The JPSS eccentrics have 1.8*

[YOLO Z/28]

Originally Posted by JusticePete

These will get you to ZERO nd then some.



Factory rear camber eccentrics have .90* of adjustment. The JPSS eccentrics have 1.8*

What's the part number for your site?

[JusticePete]

This should do it http://www.jpssonline.com/shop/2010-...d-caster-bolts

[YOLO Z/28]

Originally Posted by JusticePete

This should do ithttp://www.jpssonline.com/shop/2010-to-2015-camaro-black-magic-extended-range-camber-and-caster-bolts

Perfect! I'm going to order these in the coming days! I'm still at -.9* on one side and I think -1.4* on the other. I remember the dealership telling me they couldn't get any further to 0 on the stock camber adj

[pat_t]

Regarding the 18" tyres, have you seen this thread?

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=485882

You don't necessarily need to change the brakes to fit 18"s....

[YOLO Z/28]

Originally Posted by pat_t

Regarding the 18" tyres, have you seen this thread?

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=485882

You don't necessarily need to change the brakes to fit 18"s....

Yeah, I have found out that forgeline and CCW will make 18's that clear. The CCW's are about a grand a piece, whereas the forgelines are 16-1700, so I went with the CCW's. They told me they are currently operating 12 weeks out, so it will be a while before I see them.

[pat_t]

Originally Posted by '14RedHotZ

Yeah, I have found out that forgeline and CCW will make 18's that clear. The CCW's are about a grand a piece, whereas the forgelines are 16-1700, so I went with the CCW's. They told me they are currently operating 12 weeks out, so it will be a while before I see them.

Cool, look forward to seeing them. Which CCW model did you go for?