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Old 02-02-2014, 12:44 PM   #43
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update to the terrible instructions. the fuel lines on my car go down the pass side not the drivers side like the instructions say. also, the a pillar is by the windshield. it doesnt need to come off before the seat belts are taken off. thats the b pillar.
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Old 02-02-2014, 01:21 PM   #44
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When using a drill put section of rubber hose on the bit so not to drill too far and through something you don't want a hole in lol.
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Old 02-02-2014, 01:27 PM   #45
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good tip bo, i didnt have those lil drill bit depth clamps. i do have hose though.
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Old 02-02-2014, 01:30 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOHNSONROD View Post
update to the terrible instructions. the fuel lines on my car go down the pass side not the drivers side like the instructions say. also, the a pillar is by the windshield. it doesnt need to come off before the seat belts are taken off. thats the b pillar.
Yeah it looks like the instructions were written in china or something.
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Old 02-02-2014, 01:31 PM   #47
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You guys still looking to take these in and out?
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Old 02-02-2014, 01:35 PM   #48
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Good info guys! Add to this thread when you can! Maybe we can help those in the future with this installation.

Also, did the kit come with all the bolts and hardware? What size are they? I need to start rounding up tools and drill bits.
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Old 02-02-2014, 01:44 PM   #49
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RPM Rollbar Install tips?

Lots of drill bits, and patience. Took me two days. I wish the door bars had the holes already drilled in them from RPM. Actually I wish everything was predrilled. A long skinny sharpie is needed to go through the holes of the body to mark the plates underneath. Another thing I noticed is the bolts slightly rub my 315 wide tires in the wheel wells. I installed the bolts so the nuts were inside the car and the still rub the tires. GOOD LUCK.



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Old 02-02-2014, 01:44 PM   #50
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You guys still looking to take these in and out?
Bwahahaha! I never planned to take mine back out unless it's being sold off or something.
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Old 02-02-2014, 01:47 PM   #51
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Bwahahaha! I never planned to take mine back out unless it's being sold off or something.
So why not just take it to a chassis shop and have one welded in? In the end the cost would be the same if you include your time.
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Old 02-02-2014, 01:48 PM   #52
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RPM Rollbar Install tips?

Anther tip is to remove the steering wheel. I didn't think about that part till I aleady had the cage in.



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Old 02-02-2014, 02:10 PM   #53
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So why not just take it to a chassis shop and have one welded in? In the end the cost would be the same if you include your time.
Like I stated I need it removable, if for some reason I need to sell it or the car. Other reasons, I did look into welding one in, no one could fab/weld one soon enough, and getting it paint matched was a plus. I have no plans to make this a race car, no faster than 10.0's. (That's what we all say right?! Lol) It's just a toy to me that I occasionally race at the track. I do shows with the car also so appearance is a must. Most race shops around here just put in raw bars or lightly paint them black. I'm sure someone could probably paint match a welded in setup, but I've yet to see one locally. I would think that would be a nightmare to do with over spray problems.
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11.57 @ 126.8 mph with a crappy 1.80 60'.....still learning to drive....M&H DR's and skinnies on 17" Welds.
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Old 02-02-2014, 02:10 PM   #54
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that black car in the instructions is either a mustang or a different model of camaro than mine. my car doesnt even sorta look like that black car.

i got tha packaging off and got it taped up. the car is ready and im about to back it out in the rain and set the cage in. then ill take a break. i may post some of the pics at that point.
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Old 02-02-2014, 02:49 PM   #55
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well, its in the car and im taking a break to post some pics. ill eat something and i may do a little more later. i just have it set in there. ill have to scrape all the goo off in places and it looks like ill have to take off the sub frame connectors and tunnel brace. the tunnel brace only because it shares bolts with the sub frame connectors. i was wondering if i could shed the sub frame connector with the cage in there. in other words is the car equally as stiff with the cage only as it is with the cage and the sub frame connectors?
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Old 02-02-2014, 03:00 PM   #56
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well, its in the car and im taking a break to post some pics. ill eat something and i may do a little more later. i just have it set in there. ill have to scrape all the goo off in places and it looks like ill have to take off the sub frame connectors and tunnel brace. the tunnel brace only because it shares bolts with the sub frame connectors. i was wondering if i could shed the sub frame connector with the cage in there. in other words is the car equally as stiff with the cage only as it is with the cage and the sub frame connectors?
Thanks for the pics!

As for the subframe connector, you will want to reinstall it. It's main job is to isolate and control movement of the rear cradle. Something the rollbar will not do.

Looking good!
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Gforce Engineering Drivetrain, ECS 1500 Supercharger, TSP Cam, Alky Controls Meth single nozzle. 91 octane, 698 RWHP 625 rwtq. 4200#+, Tuned by Justin "Justune" Kalwei
11.57 @ 126.8 mph with a crappy 1.80 60'.....still learning to drive....M&H DR's and skinnies on 17" Welds.
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