Dyno'd E-Force today on L99

[SilverIceman]

Originally Posted by Tom D

Was going to untill I found out they won't warranty with aftermarket headers.

Didn't read your signature.

I'm surprised your installer was OK with the E-Force tune, headers, and that CAI. Everything I've read for the last year warns against doing that. Said the A/F would be too high, among other things. Basically the reason they won't warranty it.

[Huck1974]

I'm surprised your tuner could not safely improve your numbers over the canned tune. Sounds like you need to go somewhere that you can get what you pay for.

[Z_Rocks]

These two videos should provide good info on the wires.





Hope this helps!

[Tom D]

Originally Posted by Z_Rocks

These two videos should provide good info on the wires.





Hope this helps!

These are what got me sold to try it out. And it does work. Quality of wire is obviously important. I drive the proof of that.

[Z_Rocks]

Originally Posted by Tom D

These are what got me sold to try it out. And it does work. Quality of wire is obviously important. I drive the proof of that.

I agree with you that the wires work and it's nice of you to share your results. As for some of the comments, just consider them like clouds that go by and vanishes...

[nfamous209]

Keep in mind that their are 2 different dyno's in use here. hence different numbers. mustang dynos dyno significantly lower then dynojet. regardless of being a mustang dyno, i think its still low though. i would have thought 450's atleast on that mustang dyno.

[CC Performance]

I would say that the MSD's were not installed properly.
There is no way an 8" wire will make any difference at all.

GM wires ohm at 300-400, MSD ohms at 35-40....

20 hp on a wire swap tells me the first set was not installed correctly. Plain and simple.
If this was accuarate then 20 hp would be as easy as wire swap and it would be a very very well know fact published when the LS engines came out 13 yrs ago...


The only reason we push new wires is the fact you generally damage one or two of the factory wires when you take them off if they are a little trouble coming off. That plus header installs you need the multi angle feature of the MSD to keep the boot away from the primary.

There are a few more wires out there that promise the same as well. They are very expensive and in the end what you have is an 8" long wire.. there is no loss in 8 " that makes a difference. If it did then gm wires would not ohm at 300-400... and GM could pick up HP and beat the Mustang by a simple wire swap.


This wire discussion has been hashed over a zillion times since 97..its an 8" long wire..

[CC Performance]

Originally Posted by Z_Rocks

These two videos should provide good info on the wires.





Hope this helps!

Independant testing is what we want to see.

[CC Performance]

Tom as far as you HP numbers a mustang dynos read lower than a dynojet, but is a superior tuning tool.. The nature of the auto trans eats power as well, it shouldnt make the same as a stick car at the wheels..


Let me say this though... I am open minded.. and if someone wants to send me a set I will have them tested on a dyno and show the results... if in fact they make more power I will not only pimp them as such but I will make hybrids, If I can get the wire, using the 0 ohm wire and our terminals.. the double crimp multi angle system is the absolute best on the market .... I'll use the bests of both to make a hybrid wire to offer.

[tsears]

Guess I'm calling Granatelli.

[sspaul]

how much boost are you running, seems like you should have more horse power

[Granatelli]

Originally Posted by Slowhawk

You must of had really bad wires on the car ( I hate MSD's)

Either the wires were just bad which would cause the car to skip/misfire bad or from the looks of it the graph looks like the lower #'s were a dyno pull in 3rd gear and the higher one is done in 4th gear.

Wouldn't gain anything switching to there wire from a good GM wire at those power levels.

All runs were made in 4th gear - the easiest way to tell is MPH and Ramp - if the runs were made in different gears the MPH would be off and the HP ramp would not mimic like it does

[Granatelli]

Originally Posted by SilverIceman

Didn't read your signature.

I'm surprised your installer was OK with the E-Force tune, headers, and that CAI. Everything I've read for the last year warns against doing that. Said the A/F would be too high, among other things. Basically the reason they won't warranty it.

Look at the a/f #'s. 12.2 all the way. Timing as was 16 and then when it got hot the system pulled itself down to 13 at the lowest

Like I said, I could have tuned 20hp into it but not 100 more. i was shocked at 19hp as well but the tests were done back to back - the Yellow ARP car gained 16 last week as well with just the wire change

[Granatelli]

Originally Posted by Huck1974

I'm surprised your tuner could not safely improve your numbers over the canned tune. Sounds like you need to go somewhere that you can get what you pay for.

He got exactly what he paid for - He did not pay me to tune it. He was all set for a complete tune but I did not feel like ripping him off. Again I could have done work but his numbers match those of Edelbrocks claims and his air temps were going as high as 139 - The tune won't fix 139 degree inlet temps and 91 Calif octane. I did the right thing and the customer is sold on GMS because we did not try to take advantage of him