02-25-2013, 08:05 PM | #15 |
V8 Lounge member #2
Drives: 2001 Ws6 Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Burbank,IL
Posts: 6,373
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The Stage 8's are bud, I see the ARP's might be a Lil easier.
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2001 ws6, 40k miles, Ls3 416 stroker, short block built by PER the rest by me. LPE Ls3 heads milled to 12-1 comp, FAST 102, NW 102, kooks 2", dual DMH cutouts, Magnaflow C/B, BTR cam + springs. Full UMI suspension.
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02-25-2013, 10:47 PM | #16 |
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So now I am looking at ARP. Seems like it has a cleaner look to it. Anybody have direct links to what I need for my L99? I think I am going more for the ARP Bolts and not the studs.
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2011 Camaro 2SS/RS, Circle D 3200, ADM Transmission Cooler, BTR Valvetrain, Cam Motion .621 .595 228/244 113+4, ARH 1 7/8 full exhaust, Cold Air Inductions, Katech C5R TC, Melling HV, BTR SLR lifters, Trunion Upgrade, LS2 Dampner, LS9 head gaskets, Bo White PTB, MM can, GFX, Subs, B&M Deep transmission pan,
Holley fuel rail, Proform valve covers, relocated coil packs |
02-26-2013, 12:13 AM | #17 |
Search Ninja
Drives: 2010 Black 2SS/RS A6 Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Central Ark
Posts: 7,183
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It's common practice to go back over any exhaust installation to make sure the bolts didn't loosen up with the constant heat and vibration. You should just have to recheck them once. I guess the stage 8 bolts wouldn't need that but it's not like it's a PITA to spend 15min with a Tq wrench, checking the 12 header bolts. FWIW, not a single one of mine was below tq specs after 1k miles. I'm using the OEM bolts as well. I've never heard of anyone having a issue with the OEM gasket or bolts.
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2010 Black 2SS/RS A6
Halltech CF 102 fed GPI modded intake manifold Bo (knows) White ported TB Kooks LT's/ Dynomax VT Pfadted (springs/sways) Dyno tuned by Rhino and GPI I once parallel parked a train. |
02-26-2013, 12:23 AM | #18 |
Account Suspended
Drives: 2010 camaro ss Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Richmond Hill, GA
Posts: 726
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Stage 8s are good in theory and poor in practice. Will they prevent a bolt from loosening (out)? Yes. But what happens when they get a little loose? Now you have a bolt being fatigued for no reason and a stupid metal clip digging into your header. At that point the bolt is already useless, tighten it and it will just come loose again. 16 rattling reasons for the knock sensors to pick up false knock is not my idea of a good time. Nothing wrong with factory bolts.
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02-26-2013, 12:24 AM | #19 |
Drives: 2016 2SS coupe 2015 3LT Stingray Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: El paso texas
Posts: 880
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Arent there only 10 bolts
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Ported intake manifold and throttle body kooks 2" headers no cats
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02-26-2013, 12:28 AM | #20 |
Search Ninja
Drives: 2010 Black 2SS/RS A6 Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Central Ark
Posts: 7,183
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I had to look at a pic from Jannetty. There are 12 holes in the header flanges.
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2010 Black 2SS/RS A6
Halltech CF 102 fed GPI modded intake manifold Bo (knows) White ported TB Kooks LT's/ Dynomax VT Pfadted (springs/sways) Dyno tuned by Rhino and GPI I once parallel parked a train. |
02-26-2013, 12:45 AM | #21 |
Drives: 2013 A6 GT 5.0 Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Edmond, OK
Posts: 2,909
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I'm curious if anyone has ever had a leak from the stock bolts and stock header gaskets becuase I havent heard about any problems. Seems to me stock has worked really good.
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BLK/BLK 1SS/RS Ordered 11-01-2009 Took delivery 12-22-2009. Heads/cam/converter/bolt ons. SOLD Feb 2015 to fund 6th gen LT1 SS with 8L90E.
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02-26-2013, 06:52 AM | #22 |
lll
Drives: 2010 camaro ss L99 Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: new orleans
Posts: 1,176
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i went stock and had no probs at all
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02-26-2013, 10:46 AM | #23 |
Drives: 2010 CGM Camaro 2SS/RS 429 LSX/F1X Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Sandy, UT
Posts: 429
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We will only use new GM factory exhaust manifold gaskets on all header installs. They are usually much better quality than anything you will get with the header.
We always use anti-seize on either the bolts that come with headers or the factory bolts. Tighten them down correctly (center working out side to side), get it hot once or twice, recheck them, and they will usually stay tight with no problem. If you're worried about it, check it a year later, but we've never had problems using anti-seize; plus you will be grateful you did when you take them off for whatever reason down the road. While ARP and Stage8 bolts do look nice, IMHO they aren't worth the cost unless you go with a super cheap set of headers. Feel free to call, email, or PM us anytime! - Jeremy |
02-26-2013, 12:15 PM | #24 |
Drives: 2010 Cyber Grey Camaro SS (LS3) Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Clarksville TN
Posts: 2,275
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I have Stage 8 locking header bolts on my car currently, not as big as a "PITA" as some may make it seem. There's really nothing difficult about bending a metal tab against your flange. After breaking an OEM bolt, and having to re-torque them down after my LT install (heat cycles), I didn't want to deal with the oem bolts anymore, so I got the Stage 8's from TSP.
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02-26-2013, 03:55 PM | #25 |
ʇuɐıʌǝp lɐıɔos
Drives: 2011 2SS/RS LS3/M6 Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 231
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02-26-2013, 03:56 PM | #26 |
Drives: chevy Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: cleveland ohio
Posts: 847
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I used percy locking header bolts I reccomend them as well wag better then stage 8
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