Pumpkin [COTW 12/5/11]

[Merc]

Originally Posted by GrnMchin

Thanks for the info.

The set up we used has 3 master cylinders, two for the brakes and one for the clutch. Uses a adjustable rod between the brake cylinders rather then proportioning valve. Requires firewall modification and comes complete with pedals.

[Merc]

Starting to research my most excellent adventure to Texas. When in Texas........................Do as the Texan's do.

[Merc]

But seriously Folk's got to get back to work on Pumpkin. Parts are piling up, Rhino prepared intake, Vmax PTB, my own copy of EFI Live with Rhino support and a fresh Hammerhead re-geared to 4:10. THX DSS.
Ken from Straddle Craft is working His magic with a IOM painted rear diffuser, Vararam CAI and few other odd's and ends.

But first Dutchman Customs has a V6 auto coming in for a 3:91 SS diff conversion with shaft and axels by DSS. Frank and the DSS crew should be shipping the Goodies soon. Got to get it all done before I jet off to Texas.

But in the mean time I had a little time to help out Surlie Brewing bottle the first bottles to go to the Beer Store.

Not to mention we have had back to back snow fall weekends to boot.

One of the coldest and high snow fall values in a long time for the first days of March, I'll need some time in the Texas sun to warm up.

[Merc]

Even some of the stuff arrived today.

[ZeroC]

nothing better then getting new toys in the mail !!!!!

[Merc]

It appears I won a chance to buy a COPO in the GM Performance COPO lottery.

[Merc]

Were back to work on Pumpkin installing the Rhino prepared manifold, Vmax PTB, GM heater hose relocation kit an SLP UDP and Rhino tune. Things went fairly well removing the manifold except those stupid little green safety locks on the injectors, man there a pain and the clamps at the heater core are a bit difficult even with the cable driven clamp remover. All set to put it back together this morning once I stop at Straddle Craft to pick up the freshly painted IOM manifold cover and rear diffuser. Once the manifold and heater hose relocation kit is done, then it's out with the rad and off with the balancer for the UDP installation. Take note of the back two manifold bolts with the duct tape, you will have to do that on the way and way in with the manifold.

[mlee]

Hey the snow is melting... you better hurry up and get done!

[Merc]

Day two we had some issues, we started off with completing the heater hose relocation and found that there are no existing mounting holes in the 2010 frame to correctly mount the tab to the frame. The heater hoses run behind the heat shield and the only real way to gain access is the remove the passenger side manifold or header which would allow you to remove heat shield and drill a hole for a self tapping body bolt. However for the time being I have to settle for the mounting tab into and existing hole and sandwiched between the frame and the heat shield. It's all pretty tight so I don't see it really going any place and it will have to do until I have the header off some day.

[Merc]

Originally Posted by mlee

Hey the snow is melting... you better hurry up and get done!

Working on it Boss.......................but things did not go our way yesterday. Issues with the heater hose relocation and our tool to remove the balancer worked fine, but would not work in reverse to install the UDP. Off to the CNC shop to machine the old balancer bolt on the lathe to make an adapter for the install tool this morning.

[Merc]

On the bright side the Rhino manifold install went well, now Pumpkin will look pretty even with the engine cover off.

[RED DEMON SS]

Looks awesome Brian~

[Merc]

Originally Posted by RED DEMON SS

Looks awesome Brian~

THX Buddy! At least Pumpkin will look a little prettier with the engine cover off. Congrats on ur Hawks, even though I'm a devout Charger fan and use to have season tickets for the Hawks just so I could see my Chargers play once a year.

[Merc]

Still don't have the balancer install tool issue licked yet. After we machined the old LS crank bolt to make a custom piece for our kit, it's still to short too work. The LS crank threads don't start until almost 4"s deep into the crank snout. Need a 5" under head length M16 x 2.0 bolt and a re-mahince and were golden finally.