Newbie clutch woes... - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Hogiewan1 · 07-22-2019, 02:59 PM

Hi everyone. I'm new to this forum (actually any forum for that matter), and I could definitely use some advice. After a 20+ "retirement" from drag racing (thanks kids), I finally decided to pick up a 5th gen Camaro. I was wanting an automatic for the drag strip, but I found a heck of a deal on a 2012 with a 6 speed manual and tons of mods including a stage III package from Vengeance Racing.

Problem: After hard driving, I'm having major clutch issues. The pedal falls to the floor with hard 1-2 shifts, the disc is definitely spinning (I hate that smell), and I don't know where to start. It seems like a major issue with these cars. Welcome back to "racing"...

What brand and type of clutch? I'm planning a supercharger or turbo in the future...

Will replacing the slave cylinder, adding a billet piece in there, and a Tick stand-alone cylinder kit help?

I would appreciate any advice before I start spending thousands and making major mistakes!

frankwjr · 07-22-2019, 04:00 PM

'yo...welcome to the playpen!

I use and recommend the following process...http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html great info here for free..

when my clutch went I replaced with a factory unit I got off of ebay...I also did the billet support, hydraulic line and speed bleeder.

with a cammed car need to give the ole gas pedal a pop from start(what is your idle? mine is 950.) rarely get any smell now unless at the track.

good luck!

PEACE

Hogiewan1 · 07-22-2019, 04:50 PM

Thank you so much for the fast reply and the info. VERY helpful indeed. I love this car already, and I promised my late parents I'd get back into racing when the estate settled. You can imagine my disappointment when I called tech support at a well-know parts supplier in the Lone Star State and the guy recommended I just sell the car as there is absolutely no way to fix it. Ugh...

I'll definitely get on this right away, but with ~60k on the odometer, I'm certain that I'll need to start buying replacement parts ASAP. I spoke with the people at Tick, and they were great.

The engine idles at around the same RPM yours does. I've never drag raced a manual car, so this is going to take some getting used to. I'll need to spend a lot more time figuring out how to launch it once I get some rims and M/T's for the back. Even with the clutch as it is, the wheel hop was extremely violent when I tried leaving at about 2.5k RPM without traction control on. Wish me luck!

frankwjr · 07-22-2019, 10:50 PM

need rear sub-frame bushings....I used Prothane inserts...trailing arms and hub bushing...BMR....minimum to start with if you want to keep your axles alive...

what is the rear gear ratio...stock? I went with a 3.91 but a lot of peeps go 4.10 too...

Good luck!

PEACE

terry_b · 07-23-2019, 04:27 PM

I had issues with the clutch pedal going to the floor off and on for a long time. Ended up replacing the clutch because I thought it was failing. While the tranny was out, I had the tick bleeder line installed. I also had a new slave and the billet support installed. Everything worked perfectly for a while... then same issues popped up.

I changed the master and switched to ATE type 200 fluid (higher temps, especially wet) and I've had no issues since. I also routinely bleed the clutch line and push new fluid through the system. I can feel it in the pedal when the fluid starts getting "dirty". I think heat plays a big deal with these too.

Hogiewan1 · 07-23-2019, 08:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by frankwjr

need rear sub-frame bushings....I used Prothane inserts...trailing arms and hub bushing...BMR....minimum to start with if you want to keep your axles alive...

what is the rear gear ratio...stock? I went with a 3.91 but a lot of peeps go 4.10 too...

Good luck!

PEACE

Thanks again! The rear diff is totally stock, so I'm guessing a 3:42? I'll put it on jackstands and see when I get a minute. It is a convertible if that makes a difference.

I thought the same about the trailing arms since they look like stamped steel. I was actually looking at the UMI toe rod and trailing arm kit with poly bushings. Any thoughts? I also seriously considered replacing the diff bushings too while under there. So much to do!

Hogiewan1 · 07-23-2019, 08:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by terry_b

I had issues with the clutch pedal going to the floor off and on for a long time. Ended up replacing the clutch because I thought it was failing. While the tranny was out, I had the tick bleeder line installed. I also had a new slave and the billet support installed. Everything worked perfectly for a while... then same issues popped up.

I changed the master and switched to ATE type 200 fluid (higher temps, especially wet) and I've had no issues since. I also routinely bleed the clutch line and push new fluid through the system. I can feel it in the pedal when the fluid starts getting "dirty". I think heat plays a big deal with these too.

Thank you! I am definitely going to add a speed bleeder and plan to also do the Tick conversion and remote reservoir. With those, it should be pretty easy to bleed and/or flush every couple thousand miles or trips to the strip. This isn't a daily driver, so I can afford the cost if it keeps me having fun, which is why I picked it up.

SSBUSDRVR · 08-20-2019, 02:00 PM

Welcome! Did you call the gang up at VR? VR Built Car here. Hope you get it figured out. Ended up going here with the Monster Triple, New Slave, Remote Bleed etc. Great Clutch and Street Feel when needed.

zlathim · 08-20-2019, 02:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hogiewan1

Thanks again! The rear diff is totally stock, so I'm guessing a 3:42? I'll put it on jackstands and see when I get a minute. It is a convertible if that makes a difference.

I thought the same about the trailing arms since they look like stamped steel. I was actually looking at the UMI toe rod and trailing arm kit with poly bushings. Any thoughts? I also seriously considered replacing the diff bushings too while under there. So much to do!

Welcome to the forum. Whoever told you there is no fix for the clutch issues doesn't know what he is talking about. There are a lot of aftermarket components that help. I like the twin disk clutches with an aftermarket slave cylinder, but lots of guys are having good luck with the stock slave and tick billet support. Some people swear by the seperate reservoir modification, but I haven't done that and I've never had clutch issues. You can see all of my mods in my signature if you are curious as to what parts i have.

You definitely want to upgrade those rear suspension components. I used BMR stuff, so I can't comment on the UMI parts. I did install poly bushings at the diff mount points, but I also have a lot of gear noise in the cabin. I know some guys have went back to softer bushings in an effort to reduce gear noise.

Speaking of diff gears, your car has 3.45s in it if it is stock. I recommend 4.10s if you are going to be drag racing the car. I launch at 5,600 RPM on Mickey Thompson Street ET R tires. Tire size is important too. I'm running 26" tall tires on 17" wheels to take advantage of a lower final drive ratio.

Good luck racing. My racing history is much like yours. Before this year it had been 30 years (in high school) since I'd raced. And I'd never raced anything with this much power. I'm having the time of my life this year. Welcome back to the fold man!!

SSBUSDRVR · 08-20-2019, 02:25 PM

Quote:

Welcome to the forum. Whoever told you there is no fix for the clutch issues doesn't know what he is talking about.

That's for sure. Sell the car he was told? WTH? Forgot to mention definitely go with a Billet support if tracking with upped power. Have seen numerous melted plastic ones out there.

Hogiewan1 · 08-28-2019, 04:26 PM

First, I want to thank ALL of the fine people that posted to my cry for help. Last weekend, I finally got the clutch installed. Here's the list of parts:

Monster LT1-S triple disc and billet steel flywheel
Tick braided, heat-shielded master cylinder line
Tick remote reservoir
Tick speed bleeder line
New GM slave, TO bearing, and pilot bearing
Billet support

I've only put about 15 miles on it since bringing it home Monday night, but it feels AWESOME and grips like a pitbull with lockjaw. The total cost was about $2,500 including the new rear main seal that was a little "wet" when we took off the flywheel.

I'm really glad I put all new lines, parts, etc. and isolated the clutch hydraulics from the brake system. Now, it's time to get some drag wheels and tires and head to the ATL drag way. Anyone want to place bets on what part(s) fail first now the that clutch seems good to go? Hehe... Thanks again everyone!

07-22-2019, 02:59 PM	#1
Hogiewan1 Drives: 2012 Camaro SS covertible Join Date: Jul 2019 Location: Georgia Posts: 16 View My Garage	Newbie clutch woes... Hi everyone. I'm new to this forum (actually any forum for that matter), and I could definitely use some advice. After a 20+ "retirement" from drag racing (thanks kids), I finally decided to pick up a 5th gen Camaro. I was wanting an automatic for the drag strip, but I found a heck of a deal on a 2012 with a 6 speed manual and tons of mods including a stage III package from Vengeance Racing. Problem: After hard driving, I'm having major clutch issues. The pedal falls to the floor with hard 1-2 shifts, the disc is definitely spinning (I hate that smell), and I don't know where to start. It seems like a major issue with these cars. Welcome back to "racing"... What brand and type of clutch? I'm planning a supercharger or turbo in the future... Will replacing the slave cylinder, adding a billet piece in there, and a Tick stand-alone cylinder kit help? I would appreciate any advice before I start spending thousands and making major mistakes!

07-22-2019, 04:00 PM	#2
frankwjr Drives: 2010 SS 2SS M6 Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Smithsburg, Md. Posts: 2,445	'yo...welcome to the playpen! I use and recommend the following process...http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html great info here for free.. when my clutch went I replaced with a factory unit I got off of ebay...I also did the billet support, hydraulic line and speed bleeder. with a cammed car need to give the ole gas pedal a pop from start(what is your idle? mine is 950.) rarely get any smell now unless at the track. good luck! PEACE __________________ 2010 SS 2SS M6 - Tune by RDP dynoSteve!(Woot) - Daily Driver - *150K!* - All work by me...

07-22-2019, 10:50 PM	#4
frankwjr Drives: 2010 SS 2SS M6 Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Smithsburg, Md. Posts: 2,445	need rear sub-frame bushings....I used Prothane inserts...trailing arms and hub bushing...BMR....minimum to start with if you want to keep your axles alive... what is the rear gear ratio...stock? I went with a 3.91 but a lot of peeps go 4.10 too... Good luck! PEACE __________________ 2010 SS 2SS M6 - Tune by RDP dynoSteve!(Woot) - Daily Driver - *150K!* - All work by me...

07-23-2019, 04:27 PM	#5
terry_b Drives: 2014 2SS/RS 1LE Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Hudson, MA Posts: 1,387 View My Garage	I had issues with the clutch pedal going to the floor off and on for a long time. Ended up replacing the clutch because I thought it was failing. While the tranny was out, I had the tick bleeder line installed. I also had a new slave and the billet support installed. Everything worked perfectly for a while... then same issues popped up. I changed the master and switched to ATE type 200 fluid (higher temps, especially wet) and I've had no issues since. I also routinely bleed the clutch line and push new fluid through the system. I can feel it in the pedal when the fluid starts getting "dirty". I think heat plays a big deal with these too. __________________ 2014 2SS/RS 1LE

08-20-2019, 02:00 PM	#8
SSBUSDRVR Drives: '11 2SS/RS IBM/BLK M6 Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Central FL Posts: 3,748 View My Garage	Welcome! Did you call the gang up at VR? VR Built Car here. Hope you get it figured out. Ended up going here with the Monster Triple, New Slave, Remote Bleed etc. Great Clutch and Street Feel when needed. __________________ '11 IBM 2SS/RS Built and Tuned by Vengeance Racing Vengeance PCM Vengeance Racing Mast Black Label LS7 Headed 416 ProCharger Stage II D1X Race ,Monster Triple,Alky Control Meth Inj, Forgestar F14 Drag Version and a bunch of other blah blah blah.838/688 at 12lbs Street Friendly

07-22-2019, 04:50 PM	#3
Hogiewan1 Drives: 2012 Camaro SS covertible Join Date: Jul 2019 Location: Georgia Posts: 16 View My Garage	Thank you so much for the fast reply and the info. VERY helpful indeed. I love this car already, and I promised my late parents I'd get back into racing when the estate settled. You can imagine my disappointment when I called tech support at a well-know parts supplier in the Lone Star State and the guy recommended I just sell the car as there is absolutely no way to fix it. Ugh... I'll definitely get on this right away, but with ~60k on the odometer, I'm certain that I'll need to start buying replacement parts ASAP. I spoke with the people at Tick, and they were great. The engine idles at around the same RPM yours does. I've never drag raced a manual car, so this is going to take some getting used to. I'll need to spend a lot more time figuring out how to launch it once I get some rims and M/T's for the back. Even with the clutch as it is, the wheel hop was extremely violent when I tried leaving at about 2.5k RPM without traction control on. Wish me luck!

08-28-2019, 04:26 PM	#11
Hogiewan1 Drives: 2012 Camaro SS covertible Join Date: Jul 2019 Location: Georgia Posts: 16 View My Garage	First, I want to thank ALL of the fine people that posted to my cry for help. Last weekend, I finally got the clutch installed. Here's the list of parts: Monster LT1-S triple disc and billet steel flywheel Tick braided, heat-shielded master cylinder line Tick remote reservoir Tick speed bleeder line New GM slave, TO bearing, and pilot bearing Billet support I've only put about 15 miles on it since bringing it home Monday night, but it feels AWESOME and grips like a pitbull with lockjaw. The total cost was about $2,500 including the new rear main seal that was a little "wet" when we took off the flywheel. I'm really glad I put all new lines, parts, etc. and isolated the clutch hydraulics from the brake system. Now, it's time to get some drag wheels and tires and head to the ATL drag way. Anyone want to place bets on what part(s) fail first now the that clutch seems good to go? Hehe... Thanks again everyone!